Newbie VL Questions

[Temple]

-How realistic is it to own a 1936 vlh as a regular rider

-Is the oiling an issue and if it is, are there ways to make it better for regular long distance riding.

-Any other quirks that i should know about.

-Is there anyone that i can send pics to double check the originality?

Thanks for the help. I come from running a 1948 panhead for reference. Not new to oldish bikes.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Temple, a 36VLH should make a fine regular rider. The bikes have a strong frame, those rigid I-beam forks, a 60 inch wheelbase, a cast iron motor sitting well down, and 18 or 19 inch wheels. They are exhilarating to ride and the earliest Harley model you can use every day. They were designed for dirt roads so the oiling system needs trimmimg down for today. They were undergeared in my opinion, and will pull much taller gearing today and cruise at highway speeds. But then you see the gap in the 3-speed gearbox and might be tempted by the 4-speed, a one year option for 1936 and Harleys first constant mesh box for the Big Twin. The bike is 220 pounds lighter than a Heritage Softtail Classic, and that 80 cubic inch flathead pulls like a train. I'm a fan and happy to comment on any pictures. There are plenty of one year parts on a VLH so be careful if this might be put in for AMCA judging.

[Rollo]

I have two of them and ditto what Steve says. They handle great! Lets' see some pics!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[Temple]

Thanks guys for the help. Since it has not been purchased yet, i would feel more comfortable emailing the photos to both of you for an honest evaluation. Send email via PM

I really appreciate the help and i am okay with you reviewing it to the strictest standards, although i am not looking for a show bike, but rather a solid runner that is nearly All there. A real solid bike.

[bselph]

I have a 33VC that is a regular rider. I ride it on AMCA road runs of 450 to 500 miles total. As Steve and Rollo said they are great to own as long as you can live with the total loss oil system.

[frichie68]

Photos HERE please!

[Temple]

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[Temple]

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Belly pans match.

[Temple]

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What do you think? Value?

[frichie68]

Well....BEEEUTIFUL!

[Steve Slocombe]

I'd want to see a better picture of the engine numbers and check for a title. There is a judged bike on my Website in the same green/silver paint scheme so you can see where this bike would take some judgings dings. Chrome is inconsistent, and needed on the horn face, twist spirals and clutch inspection cover, and not on the muffler. Grips are later. Mudflap is missing. Fender braces should be silver, and the gold divider stripe is missing between the mudguard paint colours. Chrome dome nuts should be on top of the forks, so check the main fork is the 1936 style with the grease connections at the rear. Air cleaner is incorrect, so check the carburetor is the one-year one-model M41L. Clutch rod is incorrect, so probably missing the one year 1936 clutch rail assembly. Front brake cable has been replaced with some incorrect components. Cylinder heads were black enamel as standard. Still a nice piece though, and could be a good rider and a potential judged bike.

[Rollo]

Steve gave you the critical items and there are probably a few more minor items but to me it is a great start and frankly if it runs I would ride the wheels off it for now and worry about all that stuff as you gain more knowledge. Speaking of wheels you might want to check and see how much play there is between the brake shells and the splined hubs. It is one of the weakness of the VL's but not a deal breaker in my book as long as the rest of the bikes is sound. A quick check would be apply the brakes and see how far it rocks back and forth. Do front and back separately. I would also drain the crankcase using the drain and then see how much oil comes out (measure it if possible) and then use the hand pump and pump 3 times ( book says 4 but I do 3 and never had a problem) and try to start it. May smoke a bit but should clear up fairly quickly. If all goes well you should have many miles of fun riding! As to price that is what you need to decide what you are comfortable with but as with any thing there are lots of variables but at this point I would venture between 14 and 18K and possibly higher as it is a VLH. I am sure others have their opinions too. Good luck!!!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[Jim]

I noticed some of those things mentioned above... but nobody recommended Steve Slocombe's VL book.... so let me be the first to mention that. ;^) My VLH has a 22 tooth motor sprocket. Not sure what a comfortable speed that will ride at because I use it mainly for putting through town and down the street and back. I have been on a HWY for a few miles probably going 55? But then we pulled off to go where we were headed. My Speedo doesn't work.

I also turned the oiler back on mine because of what Steve said about us not having the dirt roads anymore. Don't worry if oil trickles out of the small drain hole on the bottom of the primary cover. That is probably just the "extra" oil blowing out of the chain oiler. I use 3.5 pumps when I add oil into my engine. Seems a good level for mine. I suppose each VL may vary a little bit due to how "GOOD" the leather is on your hand pump. :^)

Should start in a kick or two. Turn on gas, close choke and kick over 2-3 GOOD KICKS. Open choke 2 clicks, turn on key and Give it a good kick and small twist of throttle. That is how my VLH starts up (with ease). Then again, I have the WRONG carb on mine.

You have the "Buddy" rider foot board extensions but you have the SOLO seat.

[Temple]

I'd want to see a better picture of the engine numbers and check for a title. There is a judged bike on my Website in the same green/silver paint scheme so you can see where this bike would take some judgings dings. Chrome is inconsistent, and needed on the horn face, twist spirals and clutch inspection cover, and not on the muffler. Grips are later. Mudflap is missing. Fender braces should be silver, and the gold divider stripe is missing between the mudguard paint colours. Chrome dome nuts should be on top of the forks, so check the main fork is the 1936 style with the grease connections at the rear. Air cleaner is incorrect, so check the carburetor is the one-year one-model M41L. Clutch rod is incorrect, so probably missing the one year 1936 clutch rail assembly. Front brake cable has been replaced with some incorrect components. Cylinder heads were black enamel as standard. Still a nice piece though, and could be a good rider and a potential judged bike.

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How difficult is it to find those larger items: 1936 clutch rail assembly and air cleaner? He said that the air cleaner wasn't correct but the carburetor was correct. I will check the grease fitting on the suspension. I saw the bike on your site that sold for $40k. It was beautiful.

BTW, your book comes with the bike. He is a Panhead guy, so he hasn't done anything to it while he has had it except repair the clutch. It supposedly has 700 miles on the engine. It runs great. Wheel bearings supposedly need replacing.

Any other thoughts from anyone else?

[frichie68]

Personally I'd rather make mine mechanically sound and ride it. The judging bs flat turns me off.