VL Fuel Tanks/stud removals

[danf19]

I am dis-assembling the fuel tanks from my '36 VL frame - they came attached along with a few other items when I purchased the frame. First off, did the factory paint the area between the two tank sides or were they just primed ?? Mine is an off white while the rest of the tanks is red. Secondly, the tanks look solid but have a few dents. Can anyone recommend someone to remove the dents ? I understand they can be cut open then re-welded. Any other tips ??

Lastly, I wanted to get a few stud removers for my VL project - mainly for the cylinder base studs and transmission studs. I believe the cylinder base studs are 7/16x20 but what about the transmission studs ?? can anyone recommend others that would be helpful for the project ??
as always,
thanks
Dan

[frichie68]

I believe the tanks are soldered together, not welded and will probably have to be disassembled to work on the dents, then re-soldered.
I recently took my VL tanks to a local radiator shop to be rebuilt as one was leaking and both were in bad shape from sitting 8 years with gas in them. The leak had been "repaired" with JB-Weld and both tanks "Creemed," a real mess. The radiator shop was OBVIOUSLY not a body shop as the tanks came back with more dents and dings than when they went in. Their rebuild indicated that my bike had been crashed seriously in the past, several large chunks of (still-painted) bondo were returned along with the tanks. I have many hours invested just to get the tanks to fit properly back on the frame and still have to fill the dings and paint, learning as I go with guidance from an auto painter and friend. I can't afford to have it professionally done so that's not an option.
This shop has rebuilt many motorcycle tanks but never a VL, said they wouldn't touch another one for less than $1000, "too many pieces," way more hours than they anticipated.
Sorry I can't be more optimistic and have better answers for you.
Rich

[shelbyinparadise]

Rich is right telling you of his recent go around, there are many pieces, patches, vents that people do not know about. they will unsolder and come apart to help get the tanks dents removed from the inside. but minor dents can be removed with a stud gun at a good body shop. My 1934 RLDR tanks were done up north by people that know more than radiators, costs depends on how bad the tanks are on inside and old repairs

The best Stud removal tool is the snap-on set but Colony sells a 9 piece set or you can buy just the size you need with a two pack of each size. Tedd only shows the 9 piece set. Shelby

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Dan, the VL/JD transmission studs are 5/16" UNC below and 5/16" UNF on top.

[Rollo]

Dan,

My tanks were painted all over but they are repaints so can't say for sure what the factory did but would imagine they were painted all over. Shelby speaks the truth about VL and early Indian tanks as I have both and have had them worked on. They have had to go back numerous times to fix the fixes because when you solder one spot it weakens another due to the heat.. If they disassemble the tanks then they need to redo everything to make sure they don't leak. Even then be careful not to overtighten things as it will pull on things and open them back up. The down side of soldered tanks. If you want to check out replacement tanks call Tom Fesser at Replicant Metals as he makes dead on replacements that you can send right off for paint. I think Tom has the tanks both soldered and welded and if I were to do them again I would go with welded ones.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[Kozy]

Dear Dan, the VL/JD transmission studs are 5/16" UNC below and 5/16" UNF on top.

This may be off topic but I often wondered why UNC was used in some places and UNF in others. Are there certain applications where fine is preferable to coarse and vise versa?

[tfburke3]

This may be off topic but I often wondered why UNC was used in some places and UNF in others. Are there certain applications where fine is preferable to coarse and vise versa?

Studs anchor better with a coarse thread in alum or cast iron,while the fine thread on top provides better clamping force.Tom

[Kozy]

Thanks Tom.

Studs anchor better with a coarse thread in alum or cast iron,while the fine thread on top provides better clamping force.Tom

[shelbyinparadise]

Studs anchor better with a coarse thread in alum or cast iron,while the fine thread on top provides better clamping force.Tom

The course threads have more surface area, depth of thread, giving more shear strength in soft materials and the fine threads do provide a better clamping force. Also the fine threads with a shallow thread angle holds torque better under vibration.

I would also recommend Tom Feeser for new Tanks, the quality is above reproach. Shelby

[jjlecy]

I have an original 35 vl tank and it is painted al the way around so I think a 36 would be painted also. everyone tells me its best just to run repop tanks no leakes and cheaper on body work.goodluck

[frichie68]

everyone tells me its best just to run repop tanks no leakes and cheaper on body work.goodluck

I'm learning that the hard way, too far along to go back now, gotta bite the bullet and muddle on.
Rich

[Rollo]

Just take it slow and don't over stress things and you should be fine. Good Luck!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[Limey_Dave]

The Colony tools will only insert studs,not remove them.You might get a version of these at somewhere like Sears

http://www.frost.co.uk/4-piece-stud-puller-set.html

but despite what they say,you can only use them on long studs where they'll grip the plain part,they will mark the threads on short studs.
As said above,the only safe option on short studs is the Snapon tool.The sets are a bit spendy,but you can buy the body and get the inserts as and when you need them.

http://store.snapon.com/Stud-Remover...--P635357.aspx

Click on "Sets/Members" at top of page for single items.

Merry Christmas

[shelbyinparadise]

Thanks for the link, My Snap on set saved me this week even though I used it wrong, while changing a water pump on my diesel tractor 2 m10-1.25 bolts broke off while removing them leaving me with about .300 on one and .500 of corroded threads sticking out of the block. as panic set in I knew I only had one shot at getting them out. Using propane torch to heat the block several times to put penetrating oil on point where threads went into block, cool and repeat. I was taught years ago to take my time. I had no choice but to use my 1/4-28 Snap on collet, It measured very close to the Metric size I was working with. The first one came out with only a major struggle with a wrench too long for the space allowed, but the longest came out. ok. Using the same method on the shorter one, It started to twist at an angle, and just as I feared it was going to break it started to come out. Any other tool or method could have left me drilling out the block and tapping out for stepped stud and nut to replace the bolt.

Now that I know I can buy separate mm sizes collets for my set I will get the proper size next time this comes up. It pays to have the correct tool. Shelby

[Steve Slocombe]

And on the VLs the old fashioned way still works if you don't have the special tools. Lock up two 0112 or 0117 nuts on those 5/16" UNF studs, then unscrew the stud using the lower nut. Penetrating oil and heat helps with the reluctant ones.