I was hoping someone would know by the photos. There are no numbers. My Palmers and 45 Performance do not help identify any further. Apparently the sportster has a 30 degree advance which is too much according to 45 Performance Book.
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The springs and weights are matched to a particular motor. These items determine what the advance curve for that motor is.
Different motors require different curves. Sorry, i don't know how to identify which set belongs to which motor.
These items shouldn't impact the starting of the bike. The advance curve doesn't start until the motor is off idle, typically 1500 RPM.
If you can't get this bike starting well with this setup, you may want to start looking in the carby.
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It starts and idles,no problem. I’m still dialing in the carb. It runs OK but is not smooth at mid throttle. I’m guessing 2500-3000 rpm.In the meantime I thought I’d eliminate any electrical gremlins by making sure the points are good and correct. That’s when I discovered some sort of mismatch with points setup.
By advancing cam with my finger, it probably moves 15 degrees.
The set of points for my model and year are not for auto advance units.
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All, and I will repeat, ALL, timers used by H-D from '49 to '69 use the same points whether they are mechanical or auto advance. If your points are too small for the post then they are automotive as several GM products use similar points but the pivot post size differs. Where did you get the points?Robbie Knight Amca #2736
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Originally posted by Rubone View PostAll, and I will repeat, ALL, timers used by H-D from '49 to '69 use the same points whether they are mechanical or auto advance. If your points are too small for the post then they are automotive as several GM products use similar points but the pivot post size differs. Where did you get the points?
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Hi Dcoul, try this, print a degree wheel off the web, open your primary and use magnets or a few dots of hot glue to hold it on your motor sprocket. Establish TDC by piston height or a known timing mark. Make a wire pointer and use two primary screws to hold it in place. With your motor and degree wheel set, turn motor in the direction it runs and using a light bulb or continuity tester to see where points just open with no advance. Record this setting, go around again in the same direction and holding your cam full advanced, record this setting. Now you know your total advance. Some weights have small pins ( underneath to limit there movement ) and some have larger ones. A small pin weight on a large pin plate will give you to much advance. I hope this helps.
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see if someone didn’t put a GMC timer head in there. The post is riveted in.Robbie Knight Amca #2736
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"To HD it is"
If you"re planning on going to a dealership for that part be sure and let us know how it works out for you.
But as an alternative, if you measure your pivot post you can always drill the set of points you have. I do it all the time.
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For several years J&P sold points that worked great.They had the red fiber around the post.The last set I ordered was the pure crap variety.VTwin points always sucked,they had white nylon insert around the post & flimsy arms that never met properly at the points.I have drilled them out in the past to get them to fit & move.The white nylon also does not move/rebound well.Last I checked NAPA had decent points with solid arms that meet each other.
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