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  • Fuel Shut-Off Rod

    My fuel rod is hard to tighten or loosen, and I don't think it completely shuts off the fuel flow. Obviously, the first step is to take it apart, clean it, and check the alignment of the tank openings with the special tool, which I actually have. Any tips on refurbishing the rod and/or seat? I have no idea if these things routinely fail, or are generally bullet proof.

    If it's bent or badly worn, anybody have experience with the fuel rods with Viton tip as compared to an aftermarket knockoff of the original steel? Palmer makes vague reference to fabricating a new tip out of Peek, but doesn't go any further.

    Thanks for any info!
    Ride it like you can fix it!

  • #2
    When I outfitted the very first PEEK tip two decades ago, John,..

    I knew it would be my last!

    PETROD.jpg
    PEEKTIP.jpg

    Instead of destroying the original, it is just too simple to set the lathe toolpost at 45, and dress it of its wear.

    ...Cotten
    PS: I've plenty of PEEK scrap for sale!

    PEEKCORE.jpg
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-31-2023, 12:34 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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    • #3
      I take it that's an endorsement of the Viton tip, Cotten. I'm not so well equipped as to have a lathe, or know how to use one with any skill.
      Ride it like you can fix it!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JSB55 View Post
        I take it that's an endorsement of the Viton tip, Cotten. ....
        Uh, no,.. John!

        I am not aware of any viton petcock tips on the market, and no plastic or rubber is going to survive like the original metal anyway.

        (I suspect it was probably Monel.)

        I did produce viton seals for the top of the assembly,..
        Petcockseals.jpg



        ....Cotten
        PS: You know the Factory straightening tool is a joke if you have to hit with a hammer!

        I align them visually.
        PETALIGN.jpg
        Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-31-2023, 01:00 PM.
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

        Comment


        • #5
          Cotten, https://flatlandmotorcyclecompany.co...45-models.html is where I saw the rod with Viton tip. I don't see any info on where it's made, though.
          Ride it like you can fix it!

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          • #6
            "Vitron", John?

            True viton can be black or red, but that in the pic looks and smells like natural PEEK.

            It raises the timeless question: If you're going to the trouble to repop something, why not do it right?

            Monel is cheaper, too!

            ...Cotten
            PS: A fellow left me a dozen rods at Davenport a couple of years ago, and I mailed them back re-cut for sixty bucks.

            But that was a couple of years ago.
            Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-31-2023, 01:24 PM.
            AMCA #776
            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

            Comment


            • #7
              The headline said "vitron", but in the description, it's correctly spelled "viton". I agree, the viton orings i've gotten were all black or red.
              Ride it like you can fix it!

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm not really familiar with FMC, John,...

                But I soon realized it's cut 'n pastes from Tedd's catalog, JAMES gaskets, and probably others.

                Its a necessary bot site I guess; Sure killed the mom 'n pop shop.

                I'm almost curious enough to see if Tedd lists the rod separately. Almost.

                ...Cotten
                Last edited by T. Cotten; 07-31-2023, 06:34 PM.
                AMCA #776
                Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sounds like you need to align the top and bottom of the fuel tank with the special tool designed for this purpose. V-twin make a copy of the original tool.
                  I had the same problem, used the tool and the top and bottom are aligned again. Fuel rod and shutoff works butter smooth and no more leaks!
                  Good luck

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post
                    I'm not really familiar with FMC, John,...

                    But I soon realized it's cut 'n pastes from Tedd's catalog, JAMES, and probably others.

                    Its a necessary bot site I guess; Sure killed the mom 'n pop shop.

                    I'm almost curious enough to see if Tedd lists the rod separately. Almost.

                    ...Cotten
                    I'll put the old one back in before I'd resort to Tedd's. Got it soaking in Chem Dip right now. I'll post a photo in an hour or two and see what you guys think. It has a little gouge on one side which I'd guess is from being forced into the seat while misaligned, but when I screwed it into the seat and did the "blow test", it passed. I can almost hear the derisive guffaws already, but Alignment Tool here I come.
                    Ride it like you can fix it!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by eddiepanhead View Post
                      Sounds like you need to align the top and bottom of the fuel tank with the special tool designed for this purpose. V-twin make a copy of the original tool.
                      I had the same problem, used the tool and the top and bottom are aligned again. Fuel rod and shutoff works butter smooth and no more leaks!
                      Good luck
                      Yup, I have the tool, and that's the next step. Meanwhile, I'm soaking the parts in Chem Dip carb cleaner.
                      Ride it like you can fix it!

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                      • #12
                        Its the 'suck test', not blow, John!

                        Just like a floatvalve, you hope it makes a tiny pop when you pull your tongue off.

                        And Folks, the Factory alignment tool has one major design flaw, for which their band-aid was the 'up-and-down wrench'.

                        Ferrous metal must be bent past 'straight', so that it may spring back to straight.

                        They figured lining it up and beating upon it was enough.

                        FARSIDE.jpg

                        ....Cotten
                        AMCA #776
                        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=T. Cotten;n315094]




                          ....Cotten
                          PS: You know the Factory straightening tool is a joke if you have to hit with a hammer!

                          I align them visually.




                          I have to disagree Cotten. The factory tool works fabulously and efficiently. Jerry

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=Jerry Wieland;n315132]
                            Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post




                            ....Cotten
                            PS: You know the Factory straightening tool is a joke if you have to hit with a hammer!

                            I align them visually.




                            I have to disagree Cotten. The factory tool works fabulously and efficiently. Jerry
                            How big a hammer, Jerry?

                            What if the tank is too bent to get the tool on?

                            My tooling allows the top and bottom to be moved separately, and gently.

                            The bottom piece started out as a tap.

                            ...Cotten
                            AMCA #776
                            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Now that it's cleaned up, I can see that what I thought was a "gouge" is actually a defect in the attachment of the tip to the rod. It goes about 1/4 around the rod, with the deepest defect about 1/8 the way around. Photos attached. Safe to run, or should it be replaced?
                              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                              This gallery has 3 photos.
                              Ride it like you can fix it!

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