Bob!
The worst year for digestive fuel that I recall was 2006, when it even ate quality powdercoating.
Seasoned tank liner came out like pig's liver (attached).
But it still didn't faze JBWeld.
Fuels differ regionally, as well as seasonally and by brand. Different refineries have access to different crude "stocks". We may never know what changes occur in additives, and no way to deal with them anyway.
I guess its time I try tests with ETOH-free fuel, too.
....Cotten
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I just discovered also that my 3 year old JB Weld repair on my gas tank has failed. I guess we have the same rotten gas here too. Rats!!!!
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Yup.......Originally posted by T. Cotten View PostI didn't discover it, Eric!
Dick did: http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...ight=SuperCoat
The interesting thing about going back to this thread is how Mr. Big picked my brain, and now wants to compete with me in the carb service business.
I guess there are even lower bottom-feeders than dumpster divers, huh.
....Cotten
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I didn't discover it, Eric!
Dick did: http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...ight=SuperCoat
The interesting thing about going back to this thread is how Mr. Big picked my brain, and now wants to compete with me in the carb service business.
I guess there are even lower bottom-feeders than dumpster divers, huh.
....Cotten
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Well, your paint discovery is great news Tom. I think all of us appreciate the effort, and time you put into these experiments, and that you share your results. Thank you.
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Hate to bring up and old thread, Folks,
But I have news, good and bad.
The good news is that SIG "Supercoat" gloss black is surviving admirably in this year's summer blend fuel, applied to etched glass plate and fully immersed.
It is far more resistant than VHT, and I'm switching over to it. (Unfortunately, it takes more time and solvents to load and clean an airbrush, so I must raise my flat rate.)
The bad news is that for the first time ever, well-cured JBWeld has given it up.
(I shall lay awake at night over the many times I have used it, and the many times I have endorsed it.)
Once again,.. its about the gas, not the goober.
....Cotten
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Peter!Originally posted by PRG View PostHowdy Cotten,
Those fed’s hide’n out in the bushes with an ear cocked for the sound of your spray gun? Throw em a curve and brush paint it instead. That’s what I do with every plate I make like this one, among other items. Between the natural surface tension of fluids and heat, these come out of the oven looking like they were sprayed. One thing I didn’t mention about Glasurit is they offer “high solids” paints which have much better opacity like that once found on old machine tools and Steel Case cabinets and severely lacking in modern paints that are so translucent your encouraged to color tint your primer.
Which on the subject of hobby painting as it comes up often in feed back at my site and as it relates to pollutants, etc.., I shoot all my machines like this latest one, the 441, with just a gravity feed touch up gun with color coats applied at 25-28psi. Between that, a wet garage floor and two box fans drawing through squares made out of taped together furnace filters, my (close proximity) neighbors never smell a thing.
To begin with, it is not the "Feds", it is the State that controls my business licensing. And since TV personality Blago's Chicago regime bankrupted the State (the same that has brought you the present White House crew, by the way), the State desk-nazis have become rolling cannons. I wouldn't doubt if they ARE hiding behind bushes, looking for revenue any way they can.
I am not a hobbyist. Liberty is a service company, licensed in Illinois.
I am within restrictions to use an air-brush and other low-volume guns, but the increase in solvent costs (remember clean-up), wasted mix, and tripled labor are options that I severely wish to avoid if at all possible.
And I mentioned that I do use brushes. Please note my very first post to start this thread.
My choice for silver is an isocyanate urethane, and has so far proven P4gas-proof. It requires no mixing, and I most often apply it with a cheap paper towel. So hearing that Florida BP attacks isocyanate urethane Imron is frightening.
My most recent reported failure of an early production of my DURABLE floats was attributed to Florida BP pump fuel.
(Please note that DURABLEs have been produced from yet another generation of the 'Armstrong" material for the last two years, and Liberty will replace free of charge any of my machined floats that swell with one of this latest material. I only request that it be returned to me for my studies and verification. Please don't send me an original cast float, as I will only return it, even if you manage to place it in my packaging!)
Until I have a sample of this nasty Florida BP fuel for testing, I am hesitant to sink cash into Dura-Bake or Glasurit, since testing in my local Shell may mean little worldwide.
It is hazmat of the worst kind, and I never have access to it.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 05-26-2010, 05:29 PM.
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Howdy Cotten,
Those fed’s hide’n out in the bushes with an ear cocked for the sound of your spray gun? Throw em a curve and brush paint it instead. That’s what I do with every plate I make like this one, among other items. Between the natural surface tension of fluids and heat, these come out of the oven looking like they were sprayed. One thing I didn’t mention about Glasurit is they offer “high solids” paints which have much better opacity like that once found on old machine tools and Steel Case cabinets and severely lacking in modern paints that are so translucent your encouraged to color tint your primer.
Which on the subject of hobby painting as it comes up often in feed back at my site and as it relates to pollutants, etc.., I shoot all my machines like this latest one, the 441, with just a gravity feed touch up gun with color coats applied at 25-28psi. Between that, a wet garage floor and two box fans drawing through squares made out of taped together furnace filters, my (close proximity) neighbors never smell a thing.
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I just took the Schebler off my Chief and Imron does NOT hold up to Florida BP.Originally posted by exeric View PostTom, the Schebler on my Chief is painted with gloss black Imron and it's still hanging in there after 10+ years. It now has that perfect dull look that it didn't have when freshly painted. The guppy bowl is painted with Centari with hardner and it's peeling in some areas. I usually put Florida BP regular in it.
The bad thing about Imron, (in addition to the price) is; poor shelf life for the catalyst, miserable to mix, and it damages the nervous system. Other than those piddling details, it's great.
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Mr. Big!
If a bowl is knarly, and authenticity isn't appreciated,
Then the hammermarks and blemishes should be sanded off, before blasting with steel shot.
This will produce a "restored" appearance, but but all history will be lost. (Pic attached is a before-and-after of the same bowl.)
And Peter!
"Glasurit" sounds great if my clientele would accept $75 a carb for a paint job.
Did I mention that an Illinois State Police Inspector told me he would "walk me up the street to the jail" if he "ever caught me with a spray gun"?
No joke. If I invest into an EPA-approved booth, it would be $150 a carb just to break even in a couple of years, and that's being optimistic.
....CottenAttached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 05-25-2010, 10:29 PM.
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Blast again with glass bead.Originally posted by Mr. Big View PostOops, maybe I forked up. One of my bowls was kinda beat up lookin so I figured I'd take it on a trip through my blast cabinet and now it's dark grey instead of silver. Is there a way to get the correct appearance back? Or have I screwed the pooch?
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Oops, maybe I forked up. One of my bowls was kinda beat up lookin so I figured I'd take it on a trip through my blast cabinet and now it's dark grey instead of silver. Is there a way to get the correct appearance back? Or have I screwed the pooch?Originally posted by T. Cotten View PostMr. Big!
I use their gloss black epoxy, as sold through most motorcycle distributors. On their site I see it as SP650.
And I use the same on Schebler bowls as their bodys; Linkert bowls were bare aluminum castings of course.
....Cotten
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Howdy Sir,
Glasurit's polyurethane finishes (21 and 22 line) are incredibly durable when exposed to raw fuel and heat. Painted the carbs with straight color, no primer, on the machine in my sig in 1999 with their base silver and constant exposure to fuel has barely discolored them only around where leakage is constant at the non gasketed threaded tops.
Previous attempts with other paints on Linkerts had not been satisfactory with the paint lifting/bubbling starting at the vent hole over the bowl. Mixed up a bottle cap of Glasurit black with reduced gloss hardner (50% reduction) and no reducer, shot it on the bare body and that took care of that. If you want extra insurance for durability, after initial flash off on the drying process, place in an oven for about 45 minutes at 180 or so.Last edited by PRG; 05-25-2010, 11:05 AM.
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Mr. Big!Originally posted by Mr. Big View PostHey thanks, Cotten. Is there a particular VHT product you use? I saw quite a few on their website. And what do you use for bowls?
I use their gloss black epoxy, as sold through most motorcycle distributors. On their site I see it as SP650.
And I use the same on Schebler bowls as their bodys; Linkert bowls were bare aluminum castings of course.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 05-25-2010, 09:08 AM.
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