1941cruiser green

[ryan]

Peter,
I just went to the paintstore with the sprayout and with their spectrofotometer they found a 96% match for that paint.
Bought half a liter single stage paint with hardener,thinner and sandpaper 1000. €106
Right now I have Egyptian Ivory on it and since that paint was put on very well, and still is, I plan on just sanding it with 1000 ,repair tiny spots and then spray.
So no clearcoat!

I am not sure if 1000 grit paper is enough for paint to adhere, here in the states. I do not even go that high to blend paint, we can buff out 1500 grit, but usually go between 2000-2500 to buff. We typically use 400-500 for single stage and at the very highest 600 with 2 and 3 stage systems.

Now this is just one opinion of many as I am sure there will be different opinions. I am not trying to be a know it all, just want to bring up some issues to save you time and money. That's all.

[nukkel]

You also mentioned paint and thinner which normally goes with a hardener. Are you sure you did not mean paint and catalyst?

Hi Ryan,
In the shop they called it hardener ..you have to mix it with the paint 2:1 ( paint 2 parts ,hardener 1) to harden the paint in a chemical way.I have used it before ,went smooth.. one of the mistakes I made before is to have it all done at the same time though.. ( inside,outside fenders,tanks ) Will do them on seperate occassions now.

To your opinion the 1000 grit preparation could give a problem for the new paint to adhere to the existing layer.,as I understand it...that would really be a bummer.. so 600 would be a better choice.
Thanks for your advice!
Rein

[ryan]

One of the problems I have with the new paints are that they seem to all be high build which is a huge problem with hinged fenders.

[T. Cotten]

Cotton 74 is that right?

Not if you are colorblind, Kevin!

Viewers with dichromacy or anomalous trichromacy may read it as "21", and viewers with monochromacy may see nothing.
In other words, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

....Cotten

[nukkel]

high build which is a huge problem with hinged fenders.

In some way that was also a problem in the old days already with brand new bikes " it was left over to the owners to chip the paint when the fender was opened" -

[PRG]

Howdy Eric,

Glasurit and Sikkens are two of the best commercially available paints out there and yes it can get expensive. It is a three part system of color, hardener and reducer and supremely easy to use. In the first 48 hour cure out you can literally shave runs off and wet sand out any imperfection. The manual is very easy to use and mixing is simple with their stick showing the 2 or 3 levels to achieve proper ratio. Their hardeners come in shop temp ranges and they also have deglossers to mix with your color when going with a more authentic sheen like on frames. I've shot 21 and 22 line for almost 28 years most of which only using a Sata mini jet gravity feed touch up gun at 28 a 30 psi. The EPA and the VOC situation is making it a little more difficult for the non-pro to access all of this at commercial paint stores.

As far as color correctness goes we have a shop here with nearly the entire catalogue of DuPont colors going back to the 30's (that's where I sourced the colors forth 441 in my sig). Not only did the colors, some whimsically named, change from one year to the next, most importantly for authenticity the tint formulations did as well making it nearly impossible to replicate any color having shade variations when viewed in different light settings by using strictly mixes called for in the manual. An original sample has to be digitally analyzed.

As far as topping existing paint, on a chemical bond (overcoating in less than 48 hours or a period of time where scuffing the surface still yields the odor of solvents) I've hit it with 800 or 1000. If relying purely on a mechanical bond if shooting with a reducer, 600, or if a heavier mix of color and hardener only then possibly 400.

[nukkel]

Get real Folks.

No modern paint can perfectly match original paints, as they are completely different chemically, and thus reflect a different spectrum of light.
That's what the whole science of spectroscopy is based upon.


4% difference is certainly significant to the human eye.


....Cotten

You were right about the 4% difference ...!

Last weekend I sprayed some test cards and was not amused seeing the difference between them and the card I got from John Pierce..
Went back to the shop and they admitted the difference was considerable.They would try to get a closer match but in the end I got a call I got my money back...
The paint they were using was Standox and it was the only brand they could use together with the spectrophotometer.
Maybe other brands would give a better result.

I realise the paintchip John Pierce sent me is already a match to the original but seen the comments here that consider his paint to be spot-on I will try to get a match as close to that as possible,either manual matched or by meter.

A decade ago I would go through all the fat books with paint samples to get a match in the end but all these books seem to have been dumped..

The quest goes on.
Rein

[nukkel]

Finally succeeded in getting a match to the John Pierce paint chip..took 4 adresses to have that colour correct.

Bought just 2k urethane/ acrylic paint, gloss, no clear.

First sanded the existing layer with 600/800 and after spraying the new paint sanded it with 1500 and 2000.(3 days inbetween spraying and sanding)
It removed some slight orange peel and a few small dust particles.
Then finally "some" elbow grease, rubbing it out with compound to a nice satin finish, shiny but not too much...

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Because of my small garage and being afraid to walk into freshly sprayed parts I did it in 3 stages:
tanks and dash/ front fender/ rear fender.


Quite happy with the result ! Weird colour though.. in sunlight it appears more blueish and in the evening it looks more towards green.

Thanks for all your comments and tips!
Rein

[Rollo]

Looks good to me! I too am doing a 41 knuckle in cruiser green but still wrangling parts so a way off on paint.

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[PRG]

Looks absolutely splendid Rein! Admire your determination to get it right without overdoing the gloss or finish. While other period colors for the early 40's look nice this one really pops and yes, as previously mentioned, can look completely different in various light settings.