1976 FLH Build

[vph-d]

The pad pins are worn through because they came into contact with the edge of the disc. That occurred because the pins and bushings were worn-out, allowing the caliper to drop down. Common problem on the banana caliper...
vph-d

[marksg]

Thanks, that makes sense. I will double check. The bike came with a small basket of extra parts. One of those was a new caliper rattle spring for the rear axle. Not very original but maybe useful.

[dukekleman]

I found this method of caliper support to work best out of the options out there. Out of all the items sold, it creates the best support through leverage and the least binding of the caliper so that things can float as well. Here's a recent restoration I did for a guy. Thought I'd share the images and may be helpful to your project. IMG_20230312_165402034~2.jpgIMG_20230312_165325258~2.jpg

[marksg]

Thanks, I will check into that.

[Lyle Manheimer]

I was not aware of any bushings in the rear caliper on my '78 FXS. I thought they came from the factory with the pins located by the aluminum housing only. I made bushings, drilled the caliper and pressed them in. Worked well. I also found the spring shown in dukekleman's photo 2. It was a MoCo part found online and works very well, mine was not chromed. I might still have the part no.

[dukekleman]

Colony makes the kit in black, we opted for chrome in order blend visually against the brake disc a little better. I also use nylon shims on the pin and a stainless steel wave washer. It tightens the assembly nicely and eliminates the all to well known caliper rattle.

[marksg]

Rear swing arm mounted, new Progressive 412 shocks, shock mounts and rear tire. The bead is very tight on the rims. I had a hard time getting the bead broke loose and again bead seated when inflating. Decide this will be a good riding bike so I went with Michelin's rather than a classic design. Finished painting and rebuilding both calipers and master cylinders and nounted them all. Replaced brake hoses and switches. Installed front foot controls and floor board mounts.

[joe fxs fxr]

Coming together nicely! You'll probably have to remove the front brake pedal assembly, but there is as good a place as any to store it until the motor goes in.

[marksg]

Figured I better get started on the engine. Started stripping the rocker boxes, heads, oil pump and then split the cases. All numbers are good and parts are in very good shape. No broken fins, no stripped threads, valves looks good and cylinders are .010" over with no ridge at the top. Thought maybe I could just re-ring but pistons measure .0035 clearance so it gets bored to .020" and new pistons. Split the cases mostly to have them cleaned and glass beaded as they had been painted while in the bike a couple of times. I am going back with raw cases. I will replace the left side bearing and seal while it is apart.

[dukekleman]

Looks like a fun project!
Thank for sharing the pictures.

[marksg]

I had dropped off most engine parts to a local machine shop. most parts I just wanted dipped and glass beaded. Top end get a valve job and bore. Picked up all the clean cases last week so I assembled the lower end with new left bearing and seals. Glyptal all internals. I had thought about a small cam but when I checked the existing it was an Andrews F cam. Perfect for what I wanted and in perfect shape so it is going back in. Cases back together with oil pump on and breather spaced. Waiting on cam shims so I can close up the gear case.

[dukekleman]

Mark I noticed in the photo that your sprocket seal is not installed yet. Just a friendly reminder to reverse the direction of the seal as photo'd if your using the factory chain drive system and oiling. If your converting to belt drive primary, install as shown in your photo.
It looks like a fun project and keep sharing your restoration.

[marksg]

You are correct the seal is not installed yet. I have been pondering which way to install. I am not installing a belt or open primary, but am going to isolate.
I would assume I still need to install backwards from my picture. Meaning factory direction?

[dukekleman]

Yes, you are correct.

[marksg]

Things are going together nicely. I have added front and rear fenders, nacelle, luggage rack, chain guard with many small pieces and parts. Reassembled crankcases, oil pump and cam assembly. Installed in the frame. Needed to replace the stator wire case seal and did not have a good one so this held up the inner primary until I could get a new stator.