101 Scout... going to take a while

[T. Cotten]

...I have the same gap on my 101...Was going to go to McMaster Carr and get a piece of rubber a little thicker then the gap and use as a spacer, the black will blend in and the rubber should conform to the curve of the fender. Just a thought....

You might just look along the side of the highway, Joe!

Blown semi tread is much too common, and you are going to carve it to fit no matter what.

(I may even have some left over from doing footboards.)

....Cotten

[pisten-bully]

I've got snowcat track belting that will fill the gap, it even has holes punched in it (twist drill = no good) so I can use that if there's no other solution, so thanks for that idea!

[FLFD7]

2CBDDA48-FF8D-45A9-BA00-579788D4E2E4.jpeg Harry,

I have had good success using fostner drill bits in rubber, makes a nice hole. I found this set @ Lowe’s for like $30
Joe

[indian301]

Harry,

Why not cut the generator bracket and fill in the gap with weld?

Dave

[pisten-bully]

Why not cut the generator bracket and fill in the gap with weld?

That would work Dave, thanks but I'll probably fill the gap with a piece of track belting. I also posed the question on the 101 Association site (...and people think this forum is slow ;-) and one reply so far also suggests filling the gap. So like Joe's picture shows I think it's not uncommon to see, just looking for a workaround that will eliminate the gap and not require spacers or other alterations!

[pisten-bully]

Okay, okay...it's been a while and I haven't been very productive but I've got no deadline and I bought a modern motorcycle, and between that and the Chief I rode about 12k miles this year...so there's that! I have been waiting and waiting for my cases to be finished and last week I got the good news that they could be finished this week. They've been at a local machinist who's been straight out with work, he agreed to take on my job because he likes, and is experienced with, motorcycles and wasn't afraid of the job...except that the job would tie up a machine or two for several days. Fingers crossed he can get 'em done!

Meanwhile, sheet metal. Front fender was a problem (earlier in this thread) but the rear fender was a complete mess as it turns out. I think at some point in its life there was catastrophic chain failure that wreaked havoc... there's many little round pock marks where the chain passes by the fender, lots of distortion and a ripped out section of fender...all to be repaired. Or.....purchase a re-pop? So I looked at reproduction fenders and wondered if they are made correctly:

re-pop fenders.jpg

The area where the chain guard passes on the repro fenders is different, it's cut out with a small flange. When it comes to the 101 I always refer to George Yarocki's well documented workshop manual, he shows that area as having a full skirt:

rear fender '29 101 Scout.jpg
So I went for a full skirt repair like George's drawing :

IMG_3916.jpg
I'm not done yet of course, but I probably have 25+ hours into it already...between the fabricating of the skirted cutout, riveting the braces on, welding up some cracks, and hours of tap-tap-tapping with the body hammer. (that whole section of repair was mangled and partially gone)

[PaulCDF]

Thanks for the update Harry! Looking Good!!!!

[exeric]

That kind of sheet metal work takes a lot of patience, and real dedication to achieve the result you want. I think it's amazing how you learn where to tap, and how to make the metal move where it needs to go. Beautiful work, Harry.

[pisten-bully]

This 101 frame came with an offset kicker stud installed, so I need to get a new one. The old stud measured .775 and there is an oversize stud available at .772. Not being sure what sort of clearance is typical for these so I am wondering if .772 will be tight enough? The hole in the casting measures up to .797 (+/-) so that would give me approximately .025 clearance between stud and frame casting hole. Original studs were .07575 and I don't know what the casting hole was originally. So what sort of clearance should I aim for to achieve a solid press fit?

stud.jpg

[Tom Lovejoy]

fantastic save on those cases, really impressive ! enjoying this thread, great job so far

[Tom Wilcock]

I had a second look at George's drawing on #171 and I think the cutout had the small flange like the rest of the fender. The wide part and the dotted line on it is actually the other side of the fender which can be seen past the cutout portion.
Tom

[Tom Wilcock]

I missed the sectional sketches. The cutout section does have a wider flange. You are correct.
Tom

[PaulCDF]

Sorry Harry I had to write so my pea brain could ponder which is to say I am lousy
at math:

Original studs were .07575 ??? 0.7575
Original casting hole Unknown.

The hole in the casting measures up to 0.797 (+/-)

The old stud measured 0.775

(T)here is an oversize stud available at .772.

Will 0.772 be tight enough for casting hole of 0.797 (+/-)?

So the stud you have at 0.775 is larger than the available oversized 0.772???
and larger than the original studs at 0.7575??????

Again don't mean to be a PITA just trying to understand. Can the one in your possession be brazed or silver soldered to make a tighter fit (I'm cheap)?

In the picture the lower part what is that hole for?

[pisten-bully]

I missed the sectional sketches. The cutout section does have a wider flange. You are correct.
Tom

Thanks Tom, I posed this question on the 101 Association site and received some interesting feedback! Apparently there was a changeover to fender styles from having a full skirt in that area to having a cutout in that area, but there is no documentation (so far) as to when that change took place. My fender is horribly abused in that area but you can see a hint of a crease in the skirt (which I have yet to determine how to duplicate!)


crease.jpg


There are other pictures showing examples of both styles, full skirt and cutout. this picture from Dkgoz shows the skirt with crease best:

Dave's fender.jpeg

[pisten-bully]

In the picture the lower part what is that hole for?

Paul, that's for grease, but this offset kicker stud is either home made or from a different engine/frame combo... when I mocked it up I used a wooden dowel in place of the stud to fit the kicker and it all lines up, the stud I'm looking at from Walker's is straight (haven't ordered it yet):

Walker stud.jpeg

So I guess I threw out too many numbers! Basically I'm asking if ~.025 clearance will be snug enough of a fit to serve as the kicker stud installation?