Originally posted by govmule84
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Pretending to know what I am doing - 1947 FL
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Update time. Frame should be done soon, and the engine should be mid-July. Fingers crossed. Springer is straight (Mike47 checked it with a laser and bore-scoped the legs, all is well inside), and it now has fresh rocker bushings.
I got the damper stuff back together with a mix of old and new parts.
Mike also repaired the oil bag mounting tabs as well as the battery tray.
I cleaned up the front drum. It was a mess, but most of the parts in there were salvageable.
I have been bad about updating. The fenders are cleaned up and the rear is wired up with the taillight. I've got a new neck cup kit ready to go into the frame. I'm sort of at a standstill 'till I get the frame back, then it's time to make a roller, and hopefully around that time the engine is done!
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I also forgot to mention that I traded my small-port heads for a set of seemingly-NOS large-port heads. I have a 74" cases and jugs, so the early heads were sort of a pain because they had a home-made manifold on 'em. I believe I had one head that was a '37, and the other was '38-'39? I don't have Palmer's book in front of me right now, but they were a mismatch, and that front had a large crack from port to valve guide on the exhaust side, so I'm chalking this up as a good thing for the bike.
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Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.Robbie Knight Amca #2736
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Originally posted by Rubone View PostBe sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.Last edited by govmule84; 05-30-2017, 09:38 AM.
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Originally posted by Rubone View PostBe sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.Bob Rice #6738
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Originally posted by Rubone View PostLiam,
I think Len is looking at the cable attachment point, which should be threaded 5/16-18 on a '41 up backing plate but would be a smooth bore larger hole on earlier ones.
Originally posted by BigLakeBob View PostCorrect, I recut several for some friends last year, and the races were not near as hard as original. I was able to cut them on the lathe, originals forget about cutting on a lathe. I think the repops were in the 40Rc range.
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Excellent pictures and discussion.
The neck races in my 37 had some light pocketing so I brazed a ball bearing to some stock, fitted the races in the lathe and lapped them with coarse lapping paste, and finished off with fine paste. From memory, it wasn't a super quick job, but was completely effective. I thought about using one of those stones in your picture, but didn't know how to form the correct radius on the end.
Enjoying your thread.Steve Little
Upper Yarra Valley. Victoria.
Australia.
AMCA member 1950
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Originally posted by Steve Little View PostExcellent pictures and discussion.
The neck races in my 37 had some light pocketing so I brazed a ball bearing to some stock, fitted the races in the lathe and lapped them with coarse lapping paste, and finished off with fine paste. From memory, it wasn't a super quick job, but was completely effective. I thought about using one of those stones in your picture, but didn't know how to form the correct radius on the end.
Enjoying your thread.
I like that lapping idea, too. May have to steal that for next time.
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