Tweet
i have not posted much of my 27 JD project, so i thought i'd share what i'm up to.
so will give my progress report ! i'm not as much of a picture take as i'd like to be, but i'll load all my pics in this thread, so as to keep things in one place.
my front fork assy, cyls, crankcases, generator drive case and frame are undergoing repairs and straightening. my machinist/motorcycle mechanic friend is making pushers so we can get the rod races out, he'll supervise me assembling/truing the flywheel assy (: i'm hoping all this repair/rebuild work will be finished by early winter, so i can start fitting all parts together for the "mock up" assembly stage..... (:
on the trans, i replaced all new shafts, gears, bearings, kick shaft bushing and silver soldered the split bushing on the new main shaft. i used a sealed ball bearing on the sprocket side of trans. i removed the seals of the new kick start side bearing so the kick start/clutch fork mechanisms get their lubrication. i did not use the brass oil retainers, since they have no actual sealing capability. i'm expecting the sealed large bearing will keep things dry on the sprocket side. sealed the open end of the counter shaft. adjusted end play on drive gear; shafts, gears turn/slide smoothly and shifts easily/crisply. the clutch release fork shafts fit snugly top and bottom and turns smoothly.
however i am s l o w l y dripping oil out of the lower shaft of the clutch release fork, i'm thinking since it's not sealed and steel on steel, it will leak........ ?
another question i have, the riders handbook says the mechanical oil pump comes adjusted from the factory with "one thick and three thin washers." what is the thickness of the thin and thick washers ?
since i'm using a fair amount of repro (like original) parts and my bike won't be exactly 100% correct, i've decided i'm going to do a tasteful, yet minimal over-restoration to suit my personal preferences, since i won't be showing the machine, just riding it for enjoyment. planning to go with 2k enamel urethane, hand pin striping/decals covered w/ clear. i'm thinking i will use minimally more nickle plating on select engine/chassis fasteners; the rest parkerized. my cyls are a rear 27 and an early 28 front, will be nickle plated, having the front spark plug hole converted to the older larger 27 size. if both bores weren't standard and the cylinders so intact, i'd look for a front 27. as it stands, it appears both std, not out of round bores can be honed to accept new std.pistons, i'm going with 8:1 Venolias. at worst, i will have to go to the 1st o.s.
my inspiration comes from my Dad on his 27 in ROTC uniform and his can of touch up paint. and, all you guys !
well for the moment, that's all i can think of.... i will appreciate any thoughts or comments on what i've posted !
Dad27JD 005.jpg16811910-770-0.jpgJD11090 013.jpgJD rear wheel 001.jpgJD 11090 trans complete 001.jpg
so will give my progress report ! i'm not as much of a picture take as i'd like to be, but i'll load all my pics in this thread, so as to keep things in one place.
my front fork assy, cyls, crankcases, generator drive case and frame are undergoing repairs and straightening. my machinist/motorcycle mechanic friend is making pushers so we can get the rod races out, he'll supervise me assembling/truing the flywheel assy (: i'm hoping all this repair/rebuild work will be finished by early winter, so i can start fitting all parts together for the "mock up" assembly stage..... (:
on the trans, i replaced all new shafts, gears, bearings, kick shaft bushing and silver soldered the split bushing on the new main shaft. i used a sealed ball bearing on the sprocket side of trans. i removed the seals of the new kick start side bearing so the kick start/clutch fork mechanisms get their lubrication. i did not use the brass oil retainers, since they have no actual sealing capability. i'm expecting the sealed large bearing will keep things dry on the sprocket side. sealed the open end of the counter shaft. adjusted end play on drive gear; shafts, gears turn/slide smoothly and shifts easily/crisply. the clutch release fork shafts fit snugly top and bottom and turns smoothly.
however i am s l o w l y dripping oil out of the lower shaft of the clutch release fork, i'm thinking since it's not sealed and steel on steel, it will leak........ ?
another question i have, the riders handbook says the mechanical oil pump comes adjusted from the factory with "one thick and three thin washers." what is the thickness of the thin and thick washers ?
since i'm using a fair amount of repro (like original) parts and my bike won't be exactly 100% correct, i've decided i'm going to do a tasteful, yet minimal over-restoration to suit my personal preferences, since i won't be showing the machine, just riding it for enjoyment. planning to go with 2k enamel urethane, hand pin striping/decals covered w/ clear. i'm thinking i will use minimally more nickle plating on select engine/chassis fasteners; the rest parkerized. my cyls are a rear 27 and an early 28 front, will be nickle plated, having the front spark plug hole converted to the older larger 27 size. if both bores weren't standard and the cylinders so intact, i'd look for a front 27. as it stands, it appears both std, not out of round bores can be honed to accept new std.pistons, i'm going with 8:1 Venolias. at worst, i will have to go to the 1st o.s.
my inspiration comes from my Dad on his 27 in ROTC uniform and his can of touch up paint. and, all you guys !
well for the moment, that's all i can think of.... i will appreciate any thoughts or comments on what i've posted !
Dad27JD 005.jpg16811910-770-0.jpgJD11090 013.jpgJD rear wheel 001.jpgJD 11090 trans complete 001.jpg
i will appreciate comments if i am missing something or not doing something correctly.
Comment