3 Speed w/ Reverse

[JSB55]

Inspected the countershaft splines. All feel "distinct" ... not knife sharp, not rounded, and I don't feel any burrs or unusually sharp corners. I did notice that the fit of the countershaft into the left side case bushing is quite sloppy. Not sure if that is by design, or suggests a need to replace it.

All of the repop kicker gears I see on Ebay are very dark in color, whereas mine is bright, almost shiny. Don't know it that tells us anything. Similarly, repop cluster gears look quite dark in the photos, whereas mine is a much lighter grey (battleship grey?) color. Again, no idea if that sheds any light.

Taking a close look at the Kicker Gear, it does appear that the teeth on the sloped side are quite worn at the outer corners. Not knowing this part, I don't know how that would affect the "ratcheting". Nonetheless, looking for NOS or good used version of this, which, of course, are not easily found.

[JSB55]

SUCCESS!!! After #RCAMP commented about burrs on aftermarket parts, I closely inspected mine, even though I think they're OEM. Polished the splines on the countershaft with Flitz and a felt pad on a Dremel. Paid close attention to the shoulders where the kicker gear would be when fully engaged with the Cluster, as I had noticed it seemed "sticky" when I pushed it up there by hand and tried to withdraw it. Also polished the internal splines on the kicker gear itself, and the angled ramps on the teeth, after gently running a file across them to see if it would drag, indicating a burr, as they are rather rounded off near the outer edges.

After all that, it now works. Ratchets several times on the "return" stroke, and I can keep the Clutch Gear from turning with just a gloved hand.

[RCamp]

I'm glad you got it sorted out.

[JSB55]

It never ends ... now puzzled by the kicker spring install. If I follow the instructions per PA, (countershaft notch at 12 o'clock, spring hook at 6 o'clock to start), pulling the spring around clockwise a quarter turn to hook over the stud preloads the spring so much that it turns the countershaft clockwise to the point the notch (and thus the kicker arm) would be at about 2 o'clock after a kick (unlike what is shown in PA's photos). That takes the shaft off the tripper bolts and creates all kinds of racket and resistance when the mainshaft turns.

In the alternative, I can start with the notch at 6 o'clock and the spring hook at 3 o'clock, and after a counterclockwise turn of the shaft, the spring engages the stud, leaving the notch at 12 o'clock. That would return the kicker arm to 12 o'clock after a kick, but with no preload on the spring.

It appears that on a 2 wheeler, the kicker cover would act as a "stop" for the kicker arm, but this is a Servi Car that uses an extension on the countershaft to bring the kicker outboard enough to clear the frame when kicking.

What am I overlooking? Thanks!

[Rubone]

It never ends ... now puzzled by the kicker spring install. If I follow the instructions per PA, (countershaft notch at 12 o'clock, spring hook at 6 o'clock to start), pulling the spring around clockwise a quarter turn to hook over the stud preloads the spring so much that it turns the countershaft clockwise to the point the notch (and thus the kicker arm) would be at about 2 o'clock after a kick (unlike what is shown in PA's photos). That takes the shaft off the tripper bolts and creates all kinds of racket and resistance when the mainshaft turns.

In the alternative, I can start with the notch at 6 o'clock and the spring hook at 3 o'clock, and after a counterclockwise turn of the shaft, the spring engages the stud, leaving the notch at 12 o'clock. That would return the kicker arm to 12 o'clock after a kick, but with no preload on the spring.

It appears that on a 2 wheeler, the kicker cover would act as a "stop" for the kicker arm, but this is a Servi Car that uses an extension on the countershaft to bring the kicker outboard enough to clear the frame when kicking.

What am I overlooking? Thanks!

Do you have the correct kicker arm with the stop on it? Not a Sportster or Big Twin arm.

[JSB55]

Do you have the correct kicker arm with the stop on it? Not a Sportster or Big Twin arm.

DUH. It's still on the bench, Robbie. Just been turning it with a 5/8 wrench as needed. Dug the kick arm out, and yes, it has a raised area on the front side. So I take it the spring installation with max spring load is correct, and that little bump on the arm smacks the cover and stops it at more or less vertical, after all.

Sorry for all the dumb questions, but it's been 20+ years since I did a 4 speed, and I've never been inside one of these 45 contraptions before. Challenging but fun!

[duffeycycles]

If you didn't setup the spacing right on the shift clutches,you wil be there again.
I have another customers 45" on the bench that has that problem,destroyed mainshaft & other goodies.

[JSB55]

If you didn't setup the spacing right on the shift clutches, you wil be there again.
I have another customers 45" on the bench that has that problem, destroyed mainshaft & other goodies.

Actually, that brings up another question I had. The book calls for .238 - .288 spacing between the shift fork and First gear, with trans in Neutral, but makes no mention whether that also applies when a Reverse gear is present. Whoever worked on this previously has that shift fork set pretty much midway between the two gears, which leaves it .325 away from First gear. Which spacing is correct?

[duffeycycles]

On any trans,the shift clutch should engage all the way with looseness at the shift fork.[it should not bind].One advantage of 45" is the forks are in the case so you can look at the engagement.2nd gear is the tricky one on 45" because the dogs in the gear are setback into the gear & some data showed the wrong setup.

[JSB55]

On any trans,the shift clutch should engage all the way with looseness at the shift fork.[it should not bind].One advantage of 45" is the forks are in the case so you can look at the engagement.2nd gear is the tricky one on 45" because the dogs in the gear are setback into the gear & some data showed the wrong setup.

Appreciate that. I've got that 2/3 clutch set to .053 spacing from high gear, and that shifts smoothly on the bench going from N to 2 to 3 and back down again. In either Second or Third, I can reach in and move that shift fork back and forth a thou or two (and they both allow about equal movement).

My question is with the 1/R clutch. It shifts fine on the bench set as it was, midway between the two gears, but the book says it should be .238 - .288 from first gear when in Neutral. No mention is made as to whether that applies when Reverse gear is present, or only when it's not. Which spacing is correct?