hello from a new SoCal member / '50 Harley WL

[T. Cotten]

As I posted earlier, bRadatz,...

"But if your VIN is un-altered, there is still good hope."

The State should easily correct your paperwork, with a simple inspection.

Trust me,... You are far better off with an FL!

....Cotten

[exeric]

Thank you, could you help me understand why it may not be legal? I came into this bike entirely by chance and have not done any vetting on the history of the bike itself, but it does have a clean title and papers and was ridden often in CA before it came to me, and has a current CA plate. I don't know the previous owner well but he is a reputable restorer.

I'm very glad I that I found the group and came to it knowing that it would be a trial by fire, but I'm committed to learning everything I can and give back when I can eventually. Thank you for the welcome!

In looking at your case numbers, I wonder what that string of #s to the right of the H-D number pad are for? I have just gone through the gruesome process of getting titles for a '66 Honda, a '48FL, and a '41 Indian Sport Scout. Florida is tough on engine numbers and they know what to look for. Fortunately, the bikes I titled had un-molested numbers, and number pads were not machined or ground, so no red flags went up. I've heard California is very astute on engine #s so that is why I made that comment. Again, since you have a good California title, you should enjoy the bike- - - However, your case has been molested with that second sting of numbers and that would effect it in AMCA judging, and diminish it's value to purists. That doesn't mean you shouldn't pursue making your bike more correct, and enjoying it. Regardless of the motor #s, a 1950 Hydra-Glide is a desirable, and valuable bike. I have a '51FL and it has been the best Harley I have owned. Next to J era H-Ds, early Hydra-Glides are my favorite Harley-Davidsons.

[bRadatz]

In looking at your case numbers, I wonder what that string of #s to the right of the H-D number pad are for? I have just gone through the gruesome process of getting titles for a '66 Honda, a '48FL, and a '41 Indian Sport Scout. Florida is tough on engine numbers and they know what to look for. Fortunately, the bikes I titled had un-molested numbers, and number pads were not machined or ground, so no red flags went up. I've heard California is very astute on engine #s so that is why I made that comment. Again, since you have a good California title, you should enjoy the bike- - - However, your case has been molested with that second sting of numbers and that would effect it in AMCA judging, and diminish it's value to purists. That doesn't mean you shouldn't pursue making your bike more correct, and enjoying it. Regardless of the motor #s, a 1950 Hydra-Glide is a desirable, and valuable bike. I have a '51FL and it has been the best Harley I have owned. Next to J era H-Ds, early Hydra-Glides are my favorite Harley-Davidsons.

I do plan to hold onto this bike for a long while but also see it as my entry into vintage riding and at least for now am less focused on it being correct than tinkering and learning the basics, and putting that knowledge towards more confidence in future buys or trades. But I’m saying a lot of things now that I’m sure are rookie comments to those who have been at this their whole lives, and I’m here to listen and learn, and make an ass of myself now and then


Being new to vintage riding (and SoCal) I just don’t have many resources and am more or less on my own if I get in over my head. All of these problems are new to me and I can apply some old engine smarts (I’ve had a few hobby Fords), but that won’t get me too far.

Full disclosure, I won this bike in a drawing so I couldn't be choosy. But I’ve been keeping an eye out for a starter mid-century Harley for years, so it couldn’t have been more in the ballpark!

I’m uncertain about those additional numbers, they aren’t on the title. I have asked, and I’m headed to the DMV later this week and will report back.

Thank you again!

[bRadatz]

As I posted earlier, bRadatz,...

"But if your VIN is un-altered, there is still good hope."

The State should easily correct your paperwork, with a simple inspection.

Trust me,... You are far better off with an FL!

....Cotten

I'll take your word on that, friend!

[exeric]

Being new to vintage riding (and SoCal) I just don’t have many resources and am more or less on my own if I get in over my head. All of these problems are new to me and I can apply some old engine smarts (I’ve had a few hobby Fords), but that won’t get me too far.

That is the reality for most all of us in this hobby. I just got a 1941 Indian Sport Scout and in spite of having other Indians, and many odd ball early American motorcycles, I'm in unknown territory. The first thing I did was find books and literature on Scouts so I could get familiar with parts that are particular to that bike, and to understand how things go together. The great benefit to a Hydra-Glide is there are numerous parts, and maintenance books out there, and H-D was the absolute best at documenting their products. Also, H-D is astoundingly well supported by the aftermarket industry so parts are not a problem. You have a good bike to do, and you can go as far as your interest, wallet, and time will allow.

[T. Cotten]

I'll take your word on that, friend!

My word doesn't count much in California, bRadatz,..

But your VIN stamping is reasonable, and those other numbers off of the "pad" are often called "fleet" numbers, and of no consequence.

Just present all of your paperwork honestly when you register it, and ask that it be corrected.

Patience will be required, as always.

....Cotten

[Speeding Big Twin]

Thanks for the crankcase photos. As I suspected, the left case is aftermarket (AM) and it may have been made by House of Horsepower? The two bird-like markings to the right are manufacturer ID and I think they are meant to be eagles. Number 3285 is also part of the ID and would have been recorded by the maker.

On the serial number (SN) boss, 6817 is within the known range for 1950 Pans so it’s possible the original H-D left case was damaged or the engine blew up etc and then an owner bought the AM case and stamped the Harley SN on it. But there are other possibilities, some of which are not good. Is there original documentation regarding the SN? Without it I don’t think you’d find out if 6817 was originally assigned to an engine stamped FL, F, EL or E, and AFAIK the factory does not have SN info going back that far. Anyway, you say it has a clean title so that is good.

If the R-H case is AM then it too may have those bird-like markings and the same ID number. Look near the front tappet guide. Photo?

But if the R-H case is H-D it may have a belly number (BN) underneath. It’s also known as a crankcase production number, line-bore number or confidential number. If a crankcase guard is fitted the BN may not be easy to see especially if the case is covered with oil and dirt etc but it should be there. Here’s an example of where to look. Let us know what you find and a photo would help tell us if the characters appear authentic.






I can’t see anything stamped on top of the R-H case near the rear engine mounting bolt but check anyway and let us know if you find anything. Photo?

Does the generator have a strap around it, securing it to the crankcase? I can’t see a strap in the pictures.

Four-rib gear covers were made in more than one style but none were originally used for 1950 models. A close-up of its upper left corner should tell us more.

Looks like both cylinders have ID at the base. It may consist of one letter and two numbers. Let us know what you find.

Under each head on the R-H side you may find a casting number and date code. Photos?

Any markings on the kicker cover? Maybe casting number 33-352? If so, is it indented or raised and on a plate? Photo? Partly hidden by the spring may be a date code? Photo?

Trans lid looks like a ratchet style and they were first introduced for 52. Looks like the dust cover shield is missing from the left side.

Under the trans case you may find indented casting number 121-35 and perhaps an indented 1, 1E, 2 or 2E. And a date code on a rectangular plate. What is the date code?

Mousetrap (hand clutch booster) was used for 52–67.

ID may be found on the frame forgings. Please check both sides of the steering head and the outside of both axle clips (axle plates). Photos?
Eric

[bRadatz]

That is the reality for most all of us in this hobby. I just got a 1941 Indian Sport Scout and in spite of having other Indians, and many odd ball early American motorcycles, I'm in unknown territory. The first thing I did was find books and literature on Scouts so I could get familiar with parts that are particular to that bike, and to understand how things go together. The great benefit to a Hydra-Glide is there are numerous parts, and maintenance books out there, and H-D was the absolute best at documenting their products. Also, H-D is astoundingly well supported by the aftermarket industry so parts are not a problem. You have a good bike to do, and you can go as far as your interest, wallet, and time will allow.

Refreshing to hear, thank you! Yes this past week has been a diet of YouTube maintenance videos and going over the literature I can find online. And that's one of the main reasons I had my eye on a Harley (aside from a fondness for the company already) - it seemed like a good entry bike and easiest to keep up, considering.
Congratulations on the Scout! Myself being a Wall of Death fan I have lots of love for Indians

[bRadatz]

Thanks for the crankcase photos.

Thank you, sincerely!, for all of this. I'll do a pass over the bike and come back with numbers and photos. I appreciate the eye and info.

[bRadatz]

Welcome to the AMCA. Sadly it is doubtful there is anything that is 1950 on that machine. And if the title says it is a WL you have a problem. Hope it is just a typo on your end..

More embarrassing than a typo (and a bad way to introduce myself to the group), just a visual misread of the make on my part. Thank you for the welcome!