KREEM Products.net

[Ohio-Rider]

For me the red coat has worked best, but not fail proof as you can see from the bad picture. These where new after market tanks when I put the red coat in them.

The product seems to be peeling away from the metal. It like a time bomb just waiting to give me trouble. I'll never use any sealer again on any tanks unless I have to. -Steve

[Chuck#1848]

So new VL repo tanks that have been soldered and tested may be ok NOT to seal the inside?

[Kojack]

Chuck, with the performance records of all the sealers out there I'd have to say that I would NOT depend on any of them to seal leaks, at least not for very long. I've had Kreem fail (and by the way, I followed the directions) as have many others. I have a can of Red Kote but I've heard of enough failures that I'm not even going to try it. I'm going to try Caswell next, but not for sealing leaks. Matt Blake tests all his tanks for leaks, he recommends a sealer only for rust protection. I've only heard one report of a failure on the Caswell coating and I'm not certain that person followed the directions. IF your new VL tanks are made from terne plate I wouldn't worry about corrosion. Solder and terne coatings don't rust. If they leak, it's going to be caused by a bad soldering job and you'd do much better to simply re-solder the seam. By the way, I feel that soldering as the only acceptable repair on any tank, unless you want to weld it. If your new tanks are made from plain un-coated steel, well, you'll have to decide if a coating is worth the potential problems that a failure will cause. They can make a real mess. Lots of people think that their uncoated tanks will be fine if they keep them full of gas. Maybe so. I know that you can't keep a tank 100% full. I also know that when I run my finger around the underside of the filler neck on uncoated tanks I often find rust.