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  • Stroker

    We have photos and a You Tube video to update everybody on my weekend efforts.

    I am full tilt on motor preparations, cylinder and flywheel work are currently in process. The entire intake system has been reworked and is near completion. U.P.S. did not show Saturday so my overnight shipment has not arrived this weekend (a special tap) which leaves the cylinder in the Okuma machining center waiting to be finished.

    Yesterday and today were consumed by the flywheel project. Lonnie's flywheel casting are nice I wish they would come with instructions....if they did I probably wouldn't read them until the machine work was first finished (just my nature). A considerable amount of time went into reverse engineering all the dimensions.

    After my numbers added up the flywheels were machined manually on the Monarch and Bridgeport. They currently are near size with about .015" of material left for finishing. I would like to look into heat treat and shotpeening prior to finishing the wheels.


    I either machined or metal finished 99% of the flywheel surfaces to remove the as cast finish. The cast surface holds dirt from the oil, combustion, unfiltered intake air and fuel. Clean the casting surfaces and oil will better drain to the bottom of the case when the motor is shut off. The metal finishing also removes casting surface impurities and inclusions to better the quality of the finished part.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtA6gHzn2Mw This video demonstrates making the intake compression sleeves.

    To clear all things in the way, the flywheel stroke must be increased 1/8 inch further off center. This strokes the motor from 3.5" to 3.75 inches. Include the .030" over bore and the motor jumps up from 61" to 65.8 C.I.. Mountain Motor! (small mountains).

    Joe
    Last edited by Slojo; 07-06-2010, 05:56 AM.

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    • Joe , is that "delrin" you are using for the sleeves?
      As you progress with the flywheels I was thinking about balancing and wondered if you had ever tried any unorthodox methods such as a tube with liquid ? a system that i believe Duesenberg used ( with mercury?) and something that wet coast Indian guru Don Doody ( son of Howdy) uses on his Chiefs?

      Comment


      • Barry
        I believe Delrin is the name for the plastic (might not be). It has ben so long since I purchased the material that I can 't be sure. The plastic has an almost translucent appearance with peculiar stripes running through it.

        Balancing is left to Cornell engineering, they have all the sophisticated equipment for a proper balance procedure. I have balanced my own flywheels and then had Cornell redo them, prior to assembly my results were nearly identical to theirs.
        Joe

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        • Cory Othen
          Membership#10953

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          • Here's s'more pics that didn't make it up earlier....







            Cory Othen
            Membership#10953

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            • Cylinder sprockets and flywheels where do I start.

              Cylinders, The rear cylinder is now finished with fin repair and realigning the intake port. It was off a mile. Now the intake thread is as a factory fast motor.

              Flywheels went off to be shot-peen today. The shot-peen machine is not unlike a sand blast cabinet, although it is lined with a very thick rubber. The process is so powerful that it will destroy most any non metal or rubber item placed inside. It operates automatically much like a dish washer. Load, close the door, turn the timer on for about one minute and depress the start button. Afterwards remove, flip the part over and repeat. This process reduces surface tension, relaxes the material where blasted. In the engineering books a shot-penned valve spring durability is improved by a large factor, right now I can not site the numbers I just know this works. Next will be to finish machine all machined surfaces.

              Last in alphabetic order, the sprockets of course. They have gone through purchase three times, Blanchard grinding, wire E.D.M. processing, nickel plating, now drilling and chamfering the drive hole for the pedal start mechanism. With this selection of sprockets I will be able to set up to what ever ratio I desire within reason.

              Finally another Three hundred dollar day chasing carbide tools, noise canceling head phones, diamond files, gas, 2, 1 5/8 service (thin) wrenches and two 1/4 " drive ratchets. All this including a trip to the East side of the big (dirty) D. to pick up the sprockets. Some where in between the many stops I managed to find a down Okuma needing my T.L.C. to rejuvenate its S.D.U.
              Joe

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              • Man!!!















                Cory Othen
                Membership#10953

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                • Man!! where's your duct tape? woulda worked on an Indian!!

                  Comment


                  • Joe wrote: This process reduces surface tension, relaxes the material where blasted. In the engineering books a shot-penned valve spring durability is improved by a large factor, right now I can not site the numbers I just know this works.

                    Ah something arcane I have knowledge about! "Shotpeening", almost correct Joe (you can't be an expert at everything - your human). Shot peening induces surface compressive residual stresses in metal. Compressive Stress increases the metal's fatigue resistance. I used it on the FLH fender bracket recall waaay back when - in order to offset the effect of chrome plating on the brackets sent to dealers in kits. For those that care here is a link: http://www.metalimprovement.com/shot_peen_forming.php

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                    • Charlie
                      Your slipping, you can do better than that link. The article you posted for shot peening demonstrates sheet metal forming , not the subject here.

                      I am not a metallurgist I know or read enough to get by with what I do or ask the right questions of those who are knowledgeable on the subject. Happy to have you along for the ride I always enjoy your input. Surf's up Dude.
                      Joe

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                      • Back to the ole grind

                        Not many of the parts that went out for plating fit well together. With the dimensional change from the Nickel build up. Threads, bushings, sleeves, clevises, you get the idea. So, to the Parker grinder for O.D's, Lapping compound for the threaded parts and I. D's. Sacrificial nuts and bolts are used for all the affected threads.

                        Over on the Okuma mill the front cylinder was fixtured and machined for the new threaded intake nipple. Once again the original hole was off a mile. The only broken fin on that cylinder was welded last week by Chris (excellent welding again). Tonight it was milled in preparation for hand finishing as the rear cylinder yesterday.

                        Strange thing, I started this build during the beginnings of the freeze season and now it's damn hot (90's F.). I find this very unusual as I normally don't carry a build through the seasons. I am amazed as to how much work has gone into this project and still, nothing assembled YET. When finished I will be able to reflect back and think about what I went through to build this bike in today environment as compared to 96 years ago when H.D. first built these magnificent bikes.

                        Time to go "wreck my bed".

                        Joe
                        Last edited by Slojo; 07-08-2010, 07:07 AM.

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                        • Cory Othen
                          Membership#10953

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                          • [quote=Slojo;98278]Charlie
                            Your slipping, you can do better than that link. The article you posted for shot peening demonstrates sheet metal forming , not the subject here.

                            Shoots your correct Joe, I failed to scan the site properly in my rush to get out and go surfing. I pick it as it was THE spot peening company we used way back. Here is a link to a much more lucid explanation:
                            http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_peening

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                            • Exhausted

                              Worked hard all day and have little to report. The paint striper showed today and had difficulties with the start/finish points striping the rim. Several attempts offered inconsistent results. Afterwards I fabricated a spring loaded devise that will hold the brush for him in the factory original HD truing stand. While we turn the rim he will control pressure on the brush.

                              The late model HD 21" rim has a high spot at the weld and about six inches from the weld it has a flat low spot where it's clear a piece of foreign debris was in the roll die deforming the rim. This rim runs true up to weld area where it jumps around excessively. What happen to quality control HD?

                              It would appear that no matter how hard you work on a project and all your effort to do things right in high quality others involved do not always share your passion or sense of urgency. Fortunately most every body on board with this bike build are cooperating fully. JZ the stripper will be on that list. he is insistent with getting it right.

                              Joe
                              Last edited by Slojo; 07-08-2010, 10:23 PM.

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                              • Cory Othen
                                Membership#10953

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