Parkerizing and Cad Plating

[hogluvr]

I'd like to resurrect a subject that was brought up on another part of this forum. I was very interested in the discussions about parkerizing and "faux" cad plating and would like to get more info on both.

I looked into the Copy-Cad system Caswell sells and would like to know the pros and cons of this procedure. Looking at some of their forums, it looks like it gets a little complicated as far as having to figure out surface areas of the parts, proper voltage to apply, etc. I'm no electrician (or rocket scientist for that matter), and wondered if anyone could give me a "Fake Cad Plating for Dummies" rendition of how to go about this process. Also, is this system similar to the one Eastwood sells, and has anyone had experience with either/both enough to make a recommendation? And finally, what extra equipment would I have to buy to get going? It looks like the Caswell system requires a power supply and some way of regulating it?

As far as parkerizing goes, can anyone recommend a particular brand of parkerizing solution over another? It seems there are many brands out there, different colors, etc. What would be the proper finish for an old Harley? And it also seems that some are re-usable while others are not, anyone knowledgeable in this area? Maybe I should have titled this post "Restorations for Idiots"??

Mike

[Kojack]

I have the Eastwood kit and just used it last night. It works fine for doing a few parts. Both Eastwood's and Caswell's kits are zinc plating outfits. In my opinion, zinc has a slightly whiter appearance than cadmium. If you fool around with the finishing you can get it pretty close though. Zinc seems to be more durable than cadmium. I bought new cad head bolts for my Indian and the supplier recommended that I paint them silver before installation, the heat shortens the life of cad plating. I think zinc will hold up a bit better. Keep in mind that cad plating isn't an expensive process. You can get a five gallon bucket full of parts plated for less that the cost of the Caswell kit. You'll be working at it for a long time to plate that many parts at home.

[hogluvr]

Thanks for the info. I've heard that the price of cad plating has gone up dramatically recently, is anyone able to back this up as I have not sent anything out to get plated? The other thing that attracts me to the idea of a kit, beside the fact that I am doing yet another part of the restoration myself, is that I don't have to plate things in bulk lots, which I hear is the cheapest way to go when getting stuff plated outside. With the kit I can plate the spokes on my Solo project without worrying about dismantling the Servicar to get the most bang out of my buck. In other words I can do it piece by piece at my leisure. Any thoughts?

[Johnny]

I've used a couple of different platers for cadmium, some with good results, some not so good. Some have a minimum charge of $40, some up to $125. I found someone who has a minimum of around $75 and does outstanding work, but he does spokes separate from other parts, and won't mix large heavy parts with smaller delicate parts. So each batch costs $75.

As far as parkerizing solutions go, FatDog sells the best solution (in my opinion). I use the same stuff and get nothing but compliments from my customers.
http://www.fatdogvintagesalvage.com/

[INLINE4NUT]

Johnny would you mind posting your cad plater ???I sure could use one thanks !

[Cass]

Cad Platers

We have been using the Billmark Co. in Fort Worth Texas with outstanding results & just recieved a batch from then, the weight was 12Lbs. & cost us$ 62.85 including shipping.The address is 2232 Slona St. Ft. Worth ,TX 76117 The phone # 817-834-2481
Good Luck

[swall]

Despite all of your best planning efforts about bundling parts to send out for cad, there will always be a few little parts you forget. The Caswell kit is just the ticket for this--keeps your project going.

[Johnny]

INLINE4NUT,

The plater I use is:
B-N Plating
613 Daniel St.
Dayton, OH 45404
(937) 228-2963

The fella's name is Dan.

As I recall, he'll plate up to 150 lbs. in a batch. What I like about this outfit is the fact that he does one customer at a time and only your parts go in the drum. Unlike another plater I used in Illinois, Dan has never lost a part.

Swall has a good point about forgetting something.

I've also heard good things about Caswell's electroless nickel kit and have seen the results a friend had on some parts for his Reading Standard.

I have a local shop do my bright nickel and another place in Ohio do my gray (dull) nickel.

[INLINE4NUT]

Johnny thank you Ill give Dan a call again thankyou !

[sludge]

hi,

i have used a few different brands of parkerizing solutions and for me all seem to work fine as long as you execute the process correctly. my method is adapted from Palmer's Restoration Book, I added a few twists but get beautiful long lasting results:

- glass bead all parts and avoid handling them with bare hands.

- dilute the solution as recommended by mfg.

- use either a stainless steel pan/bowl or pyrex glass pan/bowl large enough to completely submerge your parts.

- i do all the heating outside even in winter due to my methods (i like to boil the oil). an old gas grill works for me, the steaks don't taste to good though anymore.

- get a bucket of somewhat hot water and an old toothbrush tongs and some rags and use chemical resistant gloves.

- while heating the solution on one side of the grill, i boil some old drain oil on the other side (don't breath the fumes, unless of course you really want to).

- place the parts in the solution once it is up to the recommended temperature....about 5 minutes should be enough.

- remove the parts one at a time from the solution and immediately submerge them in the hot water bucket....give em a little scrub to get any residual fumunda off....dry them somewhat with a rag.

- now place the part/s in the now boiling drain oil....allow the drain oil to boil as long as you are still processing parts.

- once all the parts are in the boiling oil, turn off all heat and leave the parts in the oil overnight to cool down with the oil.

- remove you parts the next morning and wipe off any excess oil.

you will have a nice rich black finish that will not rust any time soon.