GREAT History Thanks. You've got the bike now the fun begins!
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1913 Emblem restoration
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Thanks for the history, and story about your Emblem, moritz. The fresh metal on your gas tank made me think it was a reproduction as 109 year old steel gas tanks don't generally age very well. I know that the late Mike Smith in Oregon was a big fan of the Emblem and I think it would be a good idea for you to get in touch with his sons who have continued making parts for early motorcycles. Since you have a good history to go with your bike, I would keep it the way it is, and just make it mechanically sound, and something you can ride around the neighborhood, AMCA meets, or a Hell's Angels hog roast if you're feeling adventurous. Again, thanks for sharing your beautiful 'true' antique motorcycle with us, and keep the up-dates coming.Eric Smith
AMCA #886
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Peter, yours appears to be two springs one inside the other, mine is a single spring. dimensions appear to close, if my conversion is accurate.
how long have you been working on the Emblem? any lessons learned you could pass my way would be appreciated. I will do the same.
cheers.
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Progress is pretty slow as parts are difficult to get. The spring is what was inside forks some 30 years ago, its possible your forkspring was different as improvements during the year were quite normal.
A friend is the owner and I am the pain in the ... to keep things going..
The schebler carb has partly left hand thread. The stub wich goes into the cylinder is LH so take care when dismantling.
It could break out a piece of your cylinder when going the wrong way, not really something you want .
schebler klein.jpg
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Is there any model # stamping, Moritz and Peter?
They are all unique, and Peter's casting differs from most screw-ons by the raised ridge where it is installed upon the inlet nipple.
Before total disassembly, please try to record the airvalve's spring tension:
VLVTENSN.jpg
(Thanks to Tommo for his insights!...)
With the airvalve removed and the throttle completely shut, please observe the degree of daylight around the disc, friction disc, and idle screw.
If it is minimal everywhere (but the very end of the idle screw, of course), please spare it from the torch!
.....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 07-07-2022, 10:35 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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The forum's search function works better than ever, Moritz!
https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...rvalve-springs
I have attempted to log a few of the various springs that crossed my benches, but the vast majority were fossils.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 07-07-2022, 11:45 AM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Originally posted by moritz View PostT.Cotten, is there a range of acceptable weight from closed (no weight) to completely open? I'm not at the point of pulling the carb but I will record spring compression tension via weight.
again great info............
It can be un-screwed without changing other variables.
As Tommo described upon this forum, the tension of the spring, set in the middle of the adjustor screw, would make for a *weightless* assembly when a 3oz is applied to a small-bore HX, or 5oz to a larger model. (I have a supply of springs that can only apply nearly seven ounces, so I suspect they were automotive.)
For convenience, my stand is clear plastic so I can watch the action; The adjustment of the spring retaining nut upon the airvalve shaft is surprisingly sensitive, making it even more surprising when a fresh spring gets pinned exactly the same. And more than once!
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 07-09-2022, 10:03 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I need a sanity check. I was told that conserving this bike would be too hard and I would not be able to find anyone to rebuild the engine.
I am not completely inept but also not a motorhead, so I wanted to get someone with era experience, one person (to be nameless) said that "I should just sell it".
Someone out there has experience with period correct single cylinder engines............
If anyone wants to make suggestions as to vendors I will do my own homework regarding quality, cost and schedule.
appreciate feedback....
Cheers
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Early motorcycles are a commitment, and long term affair so don't sell it, and stay with it. With a rare bike like yours, you will eventually become an expert on that vintage, and marque so chase down every lead, and build your knowledge. As for rebuilding the motor, singles are the easiest to do, particularly battery powered, magneto-less singles. The tough part is boring, honing, and fitting a new piston to a blind bore cylinder (if it needs it). With all the interest in the Cannonball runs, there should be plenty of competent machinists out there but I would advise you to find someone within reasonable driving distance, and who will answer your phone calls. Although I dislike facebook, I think that may be a good place for you to scare up more information. . . At least that's what people on facebook tell me Also, keep posting your progress, and problems on this forum.Eric Smith
AMCA #886
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You must become your own 'expert', Moritz!
The first 'homework' would be to search close to home for the most resourceful machine shops, welders, etc.
If you can explain exactly what you want, most professionals should be up to the task. (I did a blind-bore Lycoming working for a speed shop in the '80s, and have no idea what aircraft it fit.)
Researching the techs and specs will be a chore, but this very forum can assist, and hopefully help you avoid pitfalls; Vintage projects are the proverbial journey, not a destination.
....CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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