Trailer & Tools for the Cannonball

[BoschZEV]

assuming it's not being run in our summer it shouldn't be to bad.

I forgot to mention, it's for bikes made in 1948 or earlier.

[d_lasher]

>> http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...ild#Post790953

>> I hope those of you who are getting ready for next year's Cannonball find at least some of the information in that thread useful for your own preparations. If you've haven't done the event before, you'll have a >> very memorable time (and if you've signed up for the event for a second time, are you nuts!?...). Good luck to all of you.

Thanks for the thread, I'm going to have to buy a lot of tools to bring all that.

Seriously though, do you have a list of things to carry on the bike during the day?

[No Rush]

Harbor freight sells a $9.00 12V air compressor. Remove the cover and you can remove the motor and the plastic gear from the compressor. With the gear removed you can attach a cordless drill to the shaft and life is good.

[BoschZEV]

Seriously though, do you have a list of things to carry on the bike during the day?

Mine was a 1928 Ariel with exposed valves on which I had O-ring primary and drive chains so some of the tools are specific to that.

Fire extinguisher on rear fender (required by Cannonball rules)
Saddlebags with all of the following:
1 gal. spare fuel tank (carried only on one day where more than 100 mi. between gas stations)
Tappet adjusting spanners
(3) 2-oz. bottles of 2-stroke oil (2 oz./tankful)
Modified small grease gun for valve guides and rocker tips
First aid kit:
-- aspirin, Benadryl (for bee stings), Imodium AD, Tums, alcohol wipes, and antiseptic ointment as well as assortment of small and large bandages
O-ring master link press
O-ring master link removal/press kit
Tire tools:
-- 3-leg wheel stand
-- Motion Pro BeadPro bead breaker
-- (2) Motion Pro Bead Buddys
-- (2) Motion Pro Rim Protectors
-- (3) tire spoons
-- talcum powder tire/tube "lube"
-- New tube
-- Male and female tube stem fishing lines
-- Strap
-- Bead lubricant
-- Brush
-- Baja No-Pinch with male adapter
-- CO2 tire inflator with extra cartridge

I'm sure there are items whose names aren't self-explanatory (e.g. 3-leg wheel stand), so feel free to ask for explanations.

In addition to the above, I also had the tools listed below on the bike every day, all of which fit in a Moose Racing 'Rear Fender Pack'. Over the past 20 years I've only missed a couple of times to ride in the Irish Rally and I've refined my toolkit over that period based on breakdowns I observed. Any breakdown I saw that could have been fixed on the side of the road with a tool or spare I didn't have in my toolkit resulted in me adding it for the next year. Any two tools that could be replaced by one, got replaced. Over the years many people have been able to continue on their way thanks to this toolkit, rather than having to spend the rest of the day riding in the breakdown van. There was an article about my toolkit in the AMCA magazine a few years ago.

Each year at this rally ~150 bikes, all older than 1960, cover ~500 miles so in ~20 years I've observed over 1 million old-bike-miles worth of breakdowns, and refined my toolkit based on this wealth of data. Although I only need tools for British fasteners for my own machine, I also have A/F and metric because of breakdowns I saw that I could have fixed for others (helping people is why I started this thread, although trolls proved yet again that no good deed goes unpunished...).

Anyway, the tire tools in my toolkit somewhat duplicate those listed above, although the ones above make changing a tire much easier (e.g. the above tire irons have a lot more leverage).

PVC rain cover for the Moose bag
Tools (tires):
-- (2) Tire irons
-- Patch kit: grit cloth, (4) packets alcohol wipes, 1.5 mL vial isopropyl, glue, large patches, stitcher
-- Key for unscrewing valve inserts & tap/die for fixing threads
-- (4) Schraeder valve inserts
-- Tire pump
-- Tire pressure gauge
Tools (other than for tires)
AF combination: 5/l6", ⅜", 7/16", ½", 9/16"
BS combination: 3/16"–⅞"
Metric combination: 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 mm
Shortened-handle ¼" breaker bar w/ 3" extension & universal joint
¼"-drive sockets: 5/16", 11/32", 12 mm, ½", 14 mm (for BA, BSW & AF)
¼"-drive metric sockets: 8, 10, [12], 13, [14] mm
Allen wrenches: 5/64"–5/16"
Allen wrenches: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 mm
4" & 8" Crescent wrenches (½" & 1⅛" max. openings)
6" needle-nose Vise Grips
6" needle-nose & wire cutter
5" needle-nose & wire cutter
4" wire cutter
4" Channel-loc pliers
Multi-bit screwdriver: (4) flat, (2) Philips & ¼" socket adapter
Offset screwdriver
Offset Philips screwdriver
Chain breaker
Small jackknife
Tools (electrical):
Wavetek DM78A digital multimeter (ac/dcV, Ohms, diode tester)
High voltage leakage tester (neon tube)
Tools (ignition):
Spark plug box spanner
Spark plug gapper
Feeler gauge set (0.010–0.035")
(2) ¼"~4BA magneto spanners
6" machinist's ruler marked for BTDC timing
Diamond points file
5×, 5× pocket magnifier
#240 Emory paper (2"×4" piece)
Spares (Electrical):
(2) B7ES plugs (pre-gapped to 0.018")
0.18 µF film/foil condenser w/ 2 alligator clips
0.18 µF film/foil condenser
(2) carbon magneto brushes w/ springs
2' spark plug wire
(2) nut/bolt for battery terminals + (2) 6-32 screws with nuts and washers
Spares & Tools (Amal):
Monobloc: float spacer, needle clip, pilot air screw & spring, 276 & 389 gasket sets
Concentric: needle clip, pilot air screw, drain plug /w o-ring, gasket set
#78 drill bit pilot jet reamer
Monobloc & Concentric: float needle, (3) float bowl cover/bowl screws
Spares (Mikuni)
needle clip
Spares (Miscellaneous):
Clamp-on cable end nipples:
-- ⅜" dia. clutch/brake
-- ¼" dia. clutch/brake
1 ft. ¼"-dia. fuel/oil line
(2) hose clamps
(2) master links for 530 ⅝×⅜ drive chain
1 & 3-link 530 ⅝×⅜ chain segments
(2) master links for 530 O-ring drive chain
1 & 3-link 530 O-ring chain segments
(2) master links for 428 ½×.335×.305 single-row primary; C15 drive
1 & 3-link 428 ½×.335×.305 segments
(2) master links for 428 O-ring primary chain
1 & 3-link 428 O-ring chain segments
(2) master links for ⅜×5/16
(4) ¼-28 bolts w/2 wash. & 2 nuts (½" >1½")
(2) 5/16-24 bolts w/1 wash. & 1 nut (1" & 1¼")
Other:
2 ft. 12 AWG jumper cable with large clips (~40 A continuous)
3 ft. 18 AWG jumper cable with medium alligator clips
2 ft. 18 AWG jumper cable with small alligator clips
2 ft. 16 AWG electrical wire
Roll electrical tape
(3) 5-minute epoxy packets
Small bar of soap
Small amount of ETTurn petcock lube in plastic bag
1.4 oz. tube high temp RTV
Locktite repair putty
(2) 4"×4"×0.031" gasket material
6' steel wire, 0.040" dia.
6' waxed cotton string
6' nylon string
(8) 5 in. plastic zip ties
(3) 10 in. plastic zip ties
Shop rag
(2) Pair vinyl gloves
(4) Handiwipe packets
Mini-first aid kit (band-aids, alcohol wipes, Neosporin)
Mini-Maglite flashlight
5 ft. gas siphon hose
8 ft. nylon strap/tow rope

[ihrescue]

I really like this thread. Always interested in how others plan. One thing recently caught my eye in regard to silent compressors. I follow all kinds of mechanical YouTube channels from tool restoration to will it start junk yard iron rescue. One guy The Post Apocalyptic Inventor from Germany does some pretty cool scrap yard rescues and reuse of discards. @ 16:52 minutes of this video link he takes a common electrically powered air compressor and swaps the extremely noisy motor and compressor with a window air conditioner compressor which is relatively silent. I never would have thought of that. The window air conditioner has a self contained electric motor to drive the compressor. It is worth exploring when you need a quiet compressor. Here is the link if anyone is interested. https://youtu.be/weywkv6KzHk Is there anything about this that will not meet the needs? Of course in this case it goes through processes of upgrading the electrical phases using electronic gear.

Mike Love

[BoschZEV]

a window air conditioner compressor which is relatively silent.

This reminds me that 20 years ago I was at a conference in Crete where my room had an air conditioner that was virtually silent. I'm reminded of that every time I stay in a hotel and the window A/C sounds like a diesel truck starting in my room each time it kicks on. It was hot and humid in Crete but that A/C unit -- I still remember it was made by Sanyo -- had no problem keeping my room cool and comfortable. I know from this experience that it is possible to make a very quiet compressor, but for some reason they're all quite noisy.

[nuklhd]

BoschZEV, i'm sure you have thought about security to keep your tools and trailer safe. Nothings foolproof but I think about a couple of few years ago was it Shelby who had his chase trailer stolen on a cannonball?

[BoschZEV]

i'm sure you have thought about security to keep your tools and trailer safe.

I certainly have, but the measures I've taken aren't for discussion on a public forum.

[Shaky Jake]

Nice job on the trailer Charles. Good info, thanks for posting. I’ll print your tool list and put it in my moto-van, so I know what I can borrow from you. It will be a handy reference. Are you planning on having a beer fridge?

Seriously though, one of the things I’m struggling with in my support vehicle is how to safely and conveniently carry assorted bottled spirits, of the single malt variety. I did install a plastic cup dispenser in my van after the 2016 Cannonball though, because I found that the waxed paper coffee cups from the hotel would start to leak after a couple of strong cocktails. The struggle is real, but we must do what we can to maintain a civilized existence.

Oh, and on the subject of security, I’ve been thinking about painting ‘Bob’s Diaper Service’ on the side of my van to deter thieves. What do you think?


Kevin

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[BoschZEV]

how to safely and conveniently carry assorted bottled spirits, of the single malt variety.

Kevin, rather than throwing away those plastic oil containers after you empty them into your Indian, do as I do and recycle them as shatter-free Laphroaig decanters.

I did install a plastic cup dispenser in my van after the 2016 Cannonball though, because I found that the waxed paper coffee cups from the hotel would start to leak after a couple of strong cocktails.

This reminds me of the time I ordered a Courvoisier at a Holiday Inn in Rock Springs WY and the waitress returned with it in a styrofoam cup and asked if I wanted her to microwave it to warm it up.

on the subject of security, I’ve been thinking about painting ‘Bob’s Diaper Service’ on the side of my van to deter thieves.

That's an excellent idea. Don't tell anyone, but one of my secret security measures was having 'Billy Bob's Septic Tank Service and Rodent Disposal' painted on the side of my trailer. The logo is a rat clinging to a brown "raft" floating in a cesspool. It cost extra to have it painted in color, but the artist captured the hue and texture of the "raft" perfectly so I think it was worth it.

[rwm]

My old box truck had a D.O.T. placard on the back. I'd flip it to infectious waste when i parked for the night.

[Larry May]

Nothing at all against the Cannonball but your suggestion works best for me. I don't play well with others. It's my problem though, not theirs.

I agree with John, I ride alone and really enjoy it, sure I have problems some times but always work them out, plus it is a whole lot less expensive, this is just MHO however, what ever is good for you, go for it, thanks, Larry

[BoschZEV]

I ride alone and really enjoy it,

I do most of my riding alone and also enjoy it. However, I don't normally set out alone a 3000-mile trip on a 90-year old motorcycle.

While there are a few people on the Cannonball who ride as teams, always keeping together, it happens that most of the people ride alone during the day. It's quite normal not to see any more Cannonball motorcycles on the road than "normal" ones, other than at mandatory lunch or dinner spots, plus in the motel parking lot.

Basically, you ride alone on the Cannonball. The major difference is there's an enforced discipline of having to have your 90+-year old machine ready to leave each morning at 8 am, day after day for two weeks, and arrive ~200 miles later each evening by 6 pm. That a few others had tour busses and hordes of mechanics as support was as completely irrelevant to my own riding experience as it is when someone pulls up next to me on an expensive motorcycle I can't afford myself.

Other than the aspect of riding alone during the day, the Cannonball certainly was a different riding experience than I ever had before. I'm very glad to have done it. As I may have mentioned earlier in this thread, I'm currently involved in a big project that will have me very busy next fall so signing up for the 2020 Cannonball wasn't something I could even consider. Meanwhile, I hope the information in this thread helps a few others as they prepare for their own Cannonball experiences.

[d_lasher]

The 2020 cannonball will be my first. Another question for you, you mentioned breakdowns earlier. What were some of the more common breakdowns you’ve seen. And any good suggestions to do now while my bike is completely apart?

Thanks for all the info

[Jerry Wieland]

Magnetos, magnetos, magnetos, valves ,valves, valves. Other than these six it would have to be inner tubes and generators. Make sure you pre air up all inner tubes and check the seams especially tubes from Tedd's and Coker. I use Michelin and have never had a problem.



Jerry

The 2020 cannonball will be my first. Another question for you, you mentioned breakdowns earlier. What were some of the more common breakdowns you’ve seen. And any good suggestions to do now while my bike is completely apart?

Thanks for all the info