Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Windshield plastic replace?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Jim
    replied
    I took the Chief out today and the "new" windshield worked like a charm. NO FLUTTER or bending of the windshield at all. Mostly I rode between 40-45mph, but took it up to 55mph and still was nice and stiff without any wind movements. I'd say that homemade windshield is good to go! That metal 1/8" rod that I put inside the edging was the KEY to keeping it from fluttering.

    $22.91 Polycarbonate Plastic Sheet - Amazon
    $15.68 12ft U Channel Rubber Seal Lok Trim - Ebay
    $7.46 (2) 1/8X48" Plain Steel Round Bar - Home Depot
    $46.05 Total Costs

    Delaware River 12-1-21.jpg20211201_140014.jpg
    Last edited by Jim; 12-01-2021, 07:04 PM. Reason: added text

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    Thanks Guys!! Here's a closeup picture of the rod inside the channel from the "end point" of view.

    20211130_160202.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • BigLakeBob
    replied
    Looks good, that rod may be the ticket to sturdiness. The black trim fits the bike and won't yellow.

    Leave a comment:


  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Nice work Jim!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    I'll post HOW it is when I take it out for a test ride, but... it's getting COLD out, so I may have to wait for a NICE day that's at least 50F out!

    Here is my Next set of pics:

    20211130_162451.jpg20211130_164444.jpg20211130_164510.jpg20211130_165507.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    I actually just finished up the windshield today. I have NOT taken it for a ride, but it seems very sturdy now. I had to use a 1/8" steel rod inside the black beading and this also helps hold the roll to it. See the photos for a better explanation than I can do. I first took the cardboard that I used to cut out the Poly. and shaped my steel rod to that. Then, I put the rod INSIDE the channel and then put the channel onto the Poly. I cut the ends... "Bob's your Uncle"! 20211130_154505.jpg20211130_113631.jpg20211130_154358.jpg20211130_160138.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Great tip LMS!!!

    I like BMI's Vintage Motorcycle Parts

    May get one of thier windshields just to have on hand.

    Leave a comment:


  • LUVMYSHOVELS
    replied
    BMI Karts sells supposedly nos harley windshields 7 hole bottom with beading. maybe you can make one work. Ibought 2 and used 1 on my shovelhead and worked good. They also have national stamped in bottom right corner. They also sell bottom pieces. The only problem i see with them is they have a terrible odor that wont go away. Hope this helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Looking Good Thanks for keeping us posted.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    This is what I ordered from Ebay to use for the Edges.

    s-l1600.jpg




    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    I tried heating the Poly with a heat gun.... that didn't work because the area was too big, plus it's kind of cold out which allowed it too cool off to fast. So... I used a BULLET heater, or "Salamander" heater and held the Poly about 10" away constantly moving the Poly. After about 10-15 min. I let it cool and then took it apart and the Poly held it's shape. I put it back together and then took it for a ride. Temp was nice and warm at 45F. I have NOT put any edging or "bead" on it yet, but I wanted to see just how much it would flutter. Between 45-50 it started to flutter on the top left. NOT so that it scared me, but made me look at it constantly. Now I'm going to try some of this stuff called Edge Trim Rubber Seal. This is the type that has "metal" in it. I won't be riding the Chief until after I try it on there. IF it still flutters, I have other ideas... See the photos. One pic shows the two Poly pieces, but hard to tell them apart, BUT, you can see that it held the curve after taking it apart. The other is my "heat" source and a bungee cord that helped hold it with just a tad more bow to it to help if it decided to "spring back" when it cooled. The next is a photo of the windshield on the Chief. PLUS, a photo of the original "Bead" on the original (not sure what year) windshield, but the "Bead" is SOLID with a thin groove cut in it. Now that Bead is VERY STIFF which I assume would help the original plastic from fluttering. I'm thinking that the "original" windshield is a RE-Pop from the 1980s when "other" stuff was bought for this machine.

    20211122_113537.jpg20211122_113134.jpg20211122_153654.jpg
    20211122_113929.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    OK, so I had a bit of progress on my homemade windshield. I cut the Polycarbonate the same size as the original stuff. I drilled the holes and I mounted them on the brackets to see how it "fits" together and this is what it looked like. I'll update soon with more progress. I'm trying to keep it as cheap as possible... Cutting on my dad's bandsaw and drilling with regular drill bits was easy. I used a small (I think) 1/64" bit as a pilot hole and then a 1/4" bit.

    20211120_162628.jpg20211120_162637.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    Originally posted by camsaure View Post
    Aircraft supply outfits sell Plexiglass and Lexan in various thickness, They probably have glue also. I once had a repop windshield that was a bit thinner then stock, I hated it because it would suddenly cave/fold back around 70 mph. somewhat startling. For my 50 Pan I needed a pointed style. This was before you could get repops. I used Lexan and removed my old original beading, It was not too much of a problem.
    I had read on some other forum that a guy had one pop backwards so he also hated LEXAN after that and went to a Plexiglass windshield. But... I know I won't be doing 70. 45-50mph is about my limit. I like to look around too much to be going faster. GOOD Tip on the aircraft supply outfits. My Polycarbonate is "In the Mail". So... who knows how long that'll take.

    Leave a comment:


  • camsaure
    replied
    Aircraft supply outfits sell Plexiglass and Lexan in various thickness, They probably have glue also. I once had a repop windshield that was a bit thinner then stock, I hated it because it would suddenly cave/fold back around 70 mph. somewhat startling. For my 50 Pan I needed a pointed style. This was before you could get repops. I used Lexan and removed my old original beading, It was not too much of a problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim
    replied
    I was planning on using my dads band saw. I'll add extra tape as well.

    Originally posted by BigLakeBob View Post
    Even though .020 is only 1/50th of an inch your 1/16 windshield will be 25% thinner than a National. I guess you'll find out if it matters, hopefully not.
    I hadn't thought of it like that!

    Would I prefer the .085 with the UV protection and hardened against scratches Polycarbonate? YES, absolutely... but...I look at it this way... my original windshield is .050 (thinner than 1/16) and the "new" Polycarbonate is .062 then, I'm already ahead of the game .012". Now... if this does NOT work, I'm only out $22. I had thought about calling National and ask them for a windshield for a 1946 Indian and see what they say, but... I'm going to try this first and see what happens. I was only planning on using it for the "transition" weather anyway and not to use during the summer warmer days.
    Last edited by Jim; 11-11-2021, 03:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X