Sport Scout header

[tomfiii]

The clamp on the pipe at the exhaust support should hold it out.

[exeric]

I'll put the muffler, and clamp assembly together and see if the clamp assy. will hold it out enough to clear. Thanks for suggesting that, Tom.

[Tom Lovejoy]

I had to move mine about 1/2 inch in the back, it hit the frame. Mine fit the cylinders well though, just lite hand pressure was all that was needed275986400_2104486323039587_3893028439566258653_n.jpg

[exeric]

Thanks for the testimony, and picture, Tom, good to know that not all Sport Scouts were created equal, and need some tough love. The end of the header pipe on mine interferes with the starter stop mounting pad on the frame. I like the slight dog-leg you made; I thought about that, but I'm not a very good welder so it was heating and bending for me. My original intention was to chrome plate the exhaust assembly but I've had to do so much noodling that I've decided hi-temp black is going to look very good I had this same dilemma with my '40 Chief and black paint won on that exhaust as well. I could not find a chrome plater that would take any exhaust parts for fear of contaminating their tanks. Bumper platers were an option, but I've heard a lot of bad things about that industry, and the one bumper guy I talked too wanted the equivalent of a '37 Knucklehead as payment !

[Tom Lovejoy]

wow Eric, that's expensive ! main problem here is all the chrome shop's have all but closed up - getting hard to find any chrome shop's here in LA, so cal area

[tomfiii]

Some after market pipes are too short by about 3/4 inch and pull away when clamped to bracket.

[exeric]

This is where I'm current at with the exhaust system. In lieu of any dimensions, I have been going by photographs, and in particular, the pictures of an original paint '41 that Ziggy was gracious enough to post on his website. I have struggled to get the 3 exhaust components in some orthogonal relationship to themselves, and the frame and thought I could tack weld them to hold their positions. That didn't work for me because I am not good at welding thin metal with a buzz-box. I did have success with brazing the brackets to the thin wall muffler, and tailpipe. I may have everything chromed in the future if I can find a good plater, and win the lottery. For the time being, I'll be happy with high-heat black paint.

exfri.jpg

[PaulCDF]

Looks GREAT Eric. Nicely done. I prefer the high temp paint.

[exeric]

Thanks, Paul. I'm interested in any recommendations, and paint brands.

[T. Cotten]

Thanks, Paul. I'm interested in any recommendations, and paint brands.

POR-20, Eric!

....Cotten

[exeric]

Thanks, Tom, I'll give it a try.

[T. Cotten]

Thanks, Tom, I'll give it a try.

If you were close, Eric, I would give you my can..

(Even though it takes a Bernzomatic flame, P4gas takes it right off a carb!)

....Cotten
PS: I hate paint.

[PaulCDF]

I used VHT "Flameproof" I'm happy with the results. As Tom said if you lived close, I have an extra can.

[Steve Swan]

Eric, i pm'd you.

[bernhardt]

I never had any luck with the VHT flameproof paint. I baked it per the directions, applied it over clean surfaces, etc. It looks good for 50 miles, and then the black always burns off the headers and cylinders, leaving the white primer exposed. Lately, I have taken my exhausts to the powder coater, and having the high temp ceramic flat black powder coating applied. It seems to last, and it stands up to the heat well. I'm still looking for a good cylinder paint.