Linkert Carb over flow

[lux]

I'm still working on my 1941 Sport Scout. I got it running but today the carb was over flowing with gas. Am I right to assume that the float is stuck?

[kitabel]

Or the level is too high, or the needle & seat is leaking

[lux]

Thanks, I'm gonna have to take it back off and have a good look. I'm pretty sure I set the level correctly.

[Rubone]

Make sure the float is off center the correct way. That prevents it from hanging up on the casting on the carb body.

[kitabel]

The service manual level is only correct with an original or exact replica float. Several aftermarket floats require different settings due to their weight.

[T. Cotten]

Lux!

Please be certain that your bowl is also indexed with the valve beneath the HS needle, or as close to the choke mechanism as possible.

The only way to determine if the float is hanging-up against the bowlstem or side of the bowl is to flip the entire carb and bowl upside down, and suck upon the valve to be certain it is fully shut in that position.

Beware also of some productions of floats that are not only boatanchors, but those that may swell in modern fuels.

....Cotten

[walt w]

I had the same problem with my schebler on my 24 scout. Not until we moved the bowl 180 degrees did we find that it did not leak. worth a try???

[kitabel]

Thanks for posting that photo, never saw that before. Is that a military or H-D manual?
But... can the distance from the edge of the bowl's needle compartment to the end of the airhorn really be 15/64"? The choke shaft alone is larger than that.

[BigLakeBob]

Thanks for posting that photo, never saw that before. Is that a military or H-D manual?
But... can the distance from the edge of the bowl's needle compartment to the end of the airhorn really be 15/64"? The choke shaft alone is larger than that.

Maybe 1 & 5/64 (69/64")?

[T. Cotten]

Its an L&L blueprint, Folks!

And it also lists a float height of 7/16", so it probably wasn't supposed to leave the factory.

The idle hole spec is bewildering.

No matter where you index the bowl, you still have to flip it all upside down and suck on it.

....Cotten

[kitabel]

On occasion you may assemble a carburetor from unrelated parts, and use whatever bowl looks good, but even though complete interchange is possible they are not all alike.
The bowl function is of course the same, and the float pivot operates on the same axis (the float pin), but the choice is either the float pivots left to right or (close to) front to back (as seen from above).
All flathead carburetors are on the left side of the engine (float pivots front to back), and all OHV on the right (float pivots left to right), and their float types are arranged for this purpose. The difference is not in the pivot function, but how it is "clocked" on the body casting. If the wrong bowl is used, starting and idling on the side stand will be affected.
Visually:
The OHV bowl (M-5, 25, 35, 36, 45, 61, 74, etc.) has no cover above the float pivot assembly, but is sealed to the body casting by locating the pivot opening between the 2 pins protruding from the bottom of the casting (as the bowl gasket suggests).
The flathead bowl (M-18, 21, 31, 41, 51, 88, MR-3 etc., Indian) has a brass hex screw (if absent, the opening is threaded) covering the float pivot assembly and should be aligned as per the diagram Cotten graciously posted above.

[T. Cotten]

Floats don't hang up so much, Folks,..

If you die-press the lever pin bore slightly closed, and then ream it sweet to a new pin.

It can even squish it wider, sometimes needing a file, but then allowing you to center the lever.

A quarter of an inch arc at the other end of the float is as tight as it gets,

....Cotten
PS: I knew there was a reason why the floatlever eye is elongated; SVs' sweet spot is outboard, and OHVs' is midway.
Usually.

Its really not about the bowl, but about the bowlstem.