401 motor mounting

[scout1929]

A friend of mine is the lucky owner of a 1929 four. Now he wonders if there should be any spacers or washers between the frame and the motor or is the motor mounted directly on the frame?

[stan]

I don't really think a washer goes inbetween the motor, and frame, but it sure looks like a good place for one. The motors I have are already out of the frame the wear marks indicate motor sets on the frame. If I live long enough to see my four engine ready for the frame, I may put some sort of shim washer, as I don't think the frame motor mounts will set on all four spost equal. I don't think a binding effect will be good on the motor. Stan

[scout1929]

Thanks for your reply. I agree with you that there should not be spacers between the frame and motor. Washers or shims should be used if necessary. The reason for this question is that the previous owner of the bike insists that there should be spacers. The new owner had spacers machined but this resulted in that the top of the motor is too close to the frame. Also I cannot see any spacers on photos of restored bikes.

[partshunt]

There are no spacers under the motor called for in parts books. However, the four block twists easy and you need to bolt one side down. Then check for gaps under the mounts on the oposite sides. Shim any gap totally snug. After fitting my crank. I set the block in the frame and started to close the gap, (about .050") and the crank started to tighten up and drag, I then added shims and the crank stayed free wheel with the mounts torqued down temporarily. With barrels and pistons installed, there is so much drag, any crank bidding would never be detected....Joe

[Oldchief]

Hello,

I just found two 1929 Indian 4's in a barn about 6 miles away from my house. Needless to say, I purchased both of them and an extra motor for less than the cost of a 1949 Vertical Twin. Anyway, as I removed the engine this weekend, I did not see any shims of any kind under the motor mounts.

OldChief

[partshunt]

Hey there: No shims is correct but I had to put one thin one in mine to avoid binding the crank.....Thats quite a find. Good for you. And just when we all are thinking those kinda finds are gone and taken. You just never know whats in some of those old buildings we pass by from time to time and never check out........Joe

[flat-happy]

welcome to the forum oldchief---have any pictures? the more the better

[Greg H]

Sounds like a good score there Oldchief!
2nd what flat happy said,

[partshunt]

Hi Oldchief: I also welcome you to the forum. Since I am ready for pinstriping my 29 402, was wondering if there is still some pinstriping details left on one or both of your new 402 aquasitions??...Do they appear fairly original?......Joe

[Oldchief]

I tried uploading, but I took the pictures in HiRes and it exceeds the size limit. The paint on the complete bike was repainted probably in the 50's as it looks like thick red enamel with black and gold striping. The other bike was just a roller with a complete 3 bearing motor, no sheet metal. By the way, does anyone have any suggested reading material on this bikes regarding the motor mechanisms? For instance, how does one remove the crankshaft? There were three motors with the bikes, one 3 bearing and two 5 bearing. One has the crankshaft removed, but I haven't looked at it quite enough to figure it out.

Old Chief

[partshunt]

Oldchief:- To remove the crank, you need to crack apart the trans mainshaft caps to roll out the crank and bevel pinion gear out of the large (crown) gear. I would also suggest you check crown and pinion back lash first to give you an adea of what you had and need to be sure it comes together the same way as long as its within specs now. Factory back lash is .005-.006 with .003 crank end play. I got my manual from American Indian, 209-286-1232 Hope the phone number is still good. Also, a book by Jerry Hatfield and Jeff Hackett called "Indian Four Motorcycle" is very helpfull but out of print. You could also join the Indian Four Club. There is a lot of help there to get you thru.Be sure to mark all bearings you remove. Make up a holder with nails to set the caps and shells on in order by numbers for each cap..Possibly if needed, stamp the bearing caps and block oposite cam side I think....Joe