Had an AMCA member recently suggest I drill, tap and install plugs in my covers on my 440 to allow additional oiling the top end? Any others have this experience? I am ready to install my painted sheet metal and now would be the time to consider such. Bike was one owner, is a very correct restoration and will be ridden frequently on road runs and around Central Texas in hot climate. TY
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440 Indian Oiling?
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440 Indian Oiling?
Steve Klein
Collector . Conservator . Enthusiast
American Pre-teens - 1965
AMCA Member 12176
Cherokee Chapter President, Editor
www.CherokeeAMCA.org
Steve@SteveKlein.com
Georgetown, TX USATags: None
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Howdy Steve,
Not advisable as your pump has minimal output and that output is required for other items under more duress and not nearly as easily replaced as your rocker arms which are now repop'd and inexpensive. Though these pumps can - with a spring replacement and well seated check ball - provide 50-60psi running pressure with multi weights, that pressure is achieved at very little volume flow, it's mainly clearance resistance. Siphoning of oil for your rockers and likely unsealed valve stems would almost have to be done like a Vincent utilizing small carb jets to keep from disturbing this oil system balance.
Unlike Japanese automotive engine technology which has used high flow on large clearances, the oiling system on your four is like a pressurized soaker hose with controlled leaks at various locations (mains, rods, cam, mainshaft input to trans at end of crank). The rest is and was designed to be lube'd by very inadequate mist of old heavy single weight oils - that's why your rockers utilize roller bearings which require less lube. Modern 20-50's provide superior lubrication and atomize readily with little frothing. You need only have a small leak at the customary location where the gasket surface area is minimal - right in front of the rocker tower base - to see how much oil is getting there under this arrangement.
For self preservation, I'd lean more towards pre-lubeing a machine in long term storage before starting it (remove the third oil gallery screw and pump oil into it until your guage budges) than to resort to positive pressure lube'g the upper valve gallery while under way.
Best protection? Oil filter, but that's a good size project in of itself.
Good luck.Last edited by PRG; 02-27-2008, 07:46 PM.
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PRG....Appreciate the help. Steve KleinSteve Klein
Collector . Conservator . Enthusiast
American Pre-teens - 1965
AMCA Member 12176
Cherokee Chapter President, Editor
www.CherokeeAMCA.org
Steve@SteveKlein.com
Georgetown, TX USA
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Howdy Steve,
Not to belabor the lubrication point here but if you've contemplated supplemental top end oiling, will mention that is of a very secondary concern to the composition of the oils you use. Additives which make up API ratings are dictated these days in gasoline engines by EPA requirements for catalytic converter longevity and zinc which helps with sheer is one that has had to go from the desired .13 level down to less than .o8.(Synthetic, because of other composition incompatibilities have dropped this additive the most). This primarily effects high sheer/wear points like cams/lifters. Modern engine design has compensated by lightening valve trains with lower required valve seat spring pressure and large base circled cams with more gradual lifter acceleration to reduce wear
Don't know if you've viewed the cam profile on your 4. It's extremely wear compromised by virtue of a base circle the diameter of the shaft and an inverted "V" for a lobe with no progression on lift so it'll fit into your case with the bearings attached. In our 4's we have an even higher sheer point of greater ramification long term and that is at the bevel gear drive interface.
What you need to find is an oil that retains the ZDP and ZDDP additives and that is now confined mainly to diesel applications.
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