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Too many priming kicks to start
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It's also worth mentioning that if there is no valve gap it is hard for the descending piston to draw fuel out of the carb. The valve gap is a crucial part of the timing of the motor.
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Honestly, Knuck,..Originally posted by KNUCK View PostWhat is your starting tip for Linkert MR 3 or 4 as you know they do not have a choke. I now use a small shot of ether with 1/4 throttle, small no primer kick. Usually starts on 1 or 2 kicks, but would like to not use starting fluid.
I can't remember ever holding either model in my hands.
So I'm flatulating in a hailstorm, but... Depending upon your airhorn appliance,
If you can spray down the throat, I'd try hand-choking first!
...Cotten
PS: Cannot anyone measure a 27225-48 relief hole for us?Last edited by T. Cotten; 06-17-2024, 02:07 PM.
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What is your starting tip for Linkert MR 3 or 4 as you know they do not have a choke. I now use a small shot of ether with 1/4 throttle, small no primer kick. Usually starts on 1 or 2 kicks, but would like to not use starting fluid.
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Please let us consider, Folks,..
It should only take one closed-choke kick to produce a metered amount of raw fuel, as long as the throttle is open just enough to ""pull"" its charge from the main nozzles' reserve groove or cut-away.
This was designed to go with a specific choke disc. (I referred to that previously with an unanswered question....)
(Attempting to prevent too much of a raw charge led to the poppet-valve choke disc after '54 or so, but it still doesn't prevent a loose nut on the kick pedal from flooding it anyway.)
I had to kick these things for a living for decades and decades, Folks.
If I didn't figure them out, I couldn't be walking the new dog with no knee pain, equal hip arthritis, and even the right metatarsal smashed by a little old lady from Tiskilwa rear-ending me a quarter century ago can still kick. Make it easy on yourselves, Folks!
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 06-27-2024, 04:55 PM.
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Originally posted by scooterscum61 View Post...not pulling enough air in to create the fumes needed and have gas dripping.....Help me understand, Scooterscum,...Originally posted by scooterscum61 View PostExactly. no drips unless I flood it. was the point of my admission..
You want to flood it?
....Cotten
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Exactly. no drips unless I flood it. was the point of my admission.
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You Folks who love to see drips better avoid paper or foam air filters.Originally posted by scooterscum61 View PostI noticed on my bike if I forget to open the throttle all the way when priming I end up priming the carb and not the cylinders as much by not pulling enough air in to create the fumes needed and have gas dripping. CRS. has contributed to having one leg stronger than the other.
....Cotten
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I noticed on my bike if I forget to open the throttle all the way when priming I end up priming the carb and not the cylinders as much by not pulling enough air in to create the fumes needed and have gas dripping. CRS. has contributed to having one leg stronger than the other.
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That is Awesome! Good to hear Chieftain404!!Originally posted by Chieftain404 View PostWell Iacovos, you nailed it. Since I knew it wasn't flooding (a flooded engine wouldn't require MORE priming to start) I decided to start by checking the timing like you said and sure enough, the distributor had slipped somehow. Starts like a champ again. Its strange how an engine with the timing off would want so much extra priming to start but I'm just glad to have it resolved. Thanks to everyone for getting me back on the road!
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Good to hear, Chieftain!Originally posted by Chieftain404 View PostWell Iacovos, you nailed it. Since I knew it wasn't flooding (a flooded engine wouldn't require MORE priming to start) I decided to start by checking the timing like you said and sure enough, the distributor had slipped somehow. Starts like a champ again. Its strange how an engine with the timing off would want so much extra priming to start but I'm just glad to have it resolved. Thanks to everyone for getting me back on the road!
Did it cure the drip?
....Cotten
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Well Iacovos, you nailed it. Since I knew it wasn't flooding (a flooded engine wouldn't require MORE priming to start) I decided to start by checking the timing like you said and sure enough, the distributor had slipped somehow. Starts like a champ again. Its strange how an engine with the timing off would want so much extra priming to start but I'm just glad to have it resolved. Thanks to everyone for getting me back on the road!
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Since choke discs often got swapped over the decades, Folks,.. ..
How do we identify what is 'proper'?
Indian lists 102616 for 1" Models, and 102437 for 1¼" Models, and L&L probably produced the same for HD, but the HD 45" Parts Book only lists the 27225-24 choke disc, and the OHV+ later book lists that same part number for 1¼" sidevalves, plus 27225-48 for OHVs. Can anyone find the HD 1" Model part number for us?
(Thanks in advance as always...)
Not all discs were stamped, but those stamped "1" have 9/32" relief holes, and discs stamped "1¼" have 3/8" holes; Can anyone measure a 27225-48 for us? (I have one possible .272" example, stacked with common 3/16" Scheblers.)
.....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 06-10-2024, 08:36 PM.
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Ever hand-choke a carb with the aircleaner off, Folks?
Your palm gets wet with one kick.
Ideally,... The relief hole in the 'air inlet disc' meters how much vacuum pulls at the nozzle, hopefully preventing a flood. Thus the proper disc is probably prudent.
Multiplied prime kicks might not be such a good idea, if all things are in order.
....Cotten
PS: Technically, vacuum does not pull at the nozzle, but atmosphere pushes it from the bowl. These things are so simple.Last edited by T. Cotten; 06-10-2024, 05:34 PM.
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