Struggling with hot starts

[Cossack_38]

I have a restored '48 Chief that's stock except that it's stroked to 80 cubic inches. Engine has about 1500 miles on it. It usually starts pretty well when cold, and runs very well once started. It is frequently (but not always) very difficult to restart after a short stop, however. A perfect example is stopping to get gas. I have checked ignition timing multiple times, battery and charging system are in good order, and mixture is set correctly as far as I know. Carb is a stock Linkert M344, except that the venturi has been changed for 80" displacement. Cams are stock 74" cams.

I have played with various degrees of retard via the grip for starting, and tried a notch of choke. I have even tried re-priming so that if anything, it's flooded. I sometimes kick it 15-20 times, and then suddenly it starts and runs normally. I'm running out of ideas, and am reluctant to take this bike out because I don't trust it. Any suggestions for what to try next?

[T. Cotten]

I have a restored '48 Chief that's stock except that it's stroked to 80 cubic inches. Engine has about 1500 miles on it. It usually starts pretty well when cold, and runs very well once started. It is frequently (but not always) very difficult to restart after a short stop, however. A perfect example is stopping to get gas. I have checked ignition timing multiple times, battery and charging system are in good order, and mixture is set correctly as far as I know. Carb is a stock Linkert M344, except that the venturi has been changed for 80" displacement. Cams are stock 74" cams.

I have played with various degrees of retard via the grip for starting, and tried a notch of choke. I have even tried re-priming so that if anything, it's flooded. I sometimes kick it 15-20 times, and then suddenly it starts and runs normally. I'm running out of ideas, and am reluctant to take this bike out because I don't trust it. Any suggestions for what to try next?

Please try diagnostic #1, Cossack!

http://virtualIndian.org/11techleaktest.html

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

Once warm I have found my bike needs no choke to restart but I am told every Linkert has its own 'personality'.

I developed a manifold leak a few seasons back and Cotten helped my get that sorted. Now it rides "like a gentleman" by that I mean one area I ride there are a lot of homes and kids, dogs ect with the manifold leak the bike did not want to maintain walking speed. Once sorted PERFECT and made restarting reliable and consistent.

[dukekleman]

That is a very common issue with carburetors that are calibrated too rich. Dial in your air fuel ratio, verify proper float level and the problem will go away.

Hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

Once warm I have found my bike needs no choke to restart but I am told every Linkert has its own 'personality'....

Every tortured Linkert will be different, no doubt, Paul!

But 'blue-printed' carbs are pretty consistent.

Somethings wrong if the choke is needed warm.

....Cotten

[Skirted]

Sounds like a Panhead instead of Chief. 1st you said "usually starts pretty well when cold" Definitely could be related to the hot start issue as well.
6 or 12 volt?
Points or electronic ignition?
Peak intake seals?
Properly vented fuel caps?

Prepare with wrench handy and pull a spark plug right after a no hot start issue and see what it looks like.

Try shutting the fuel off several seconds prior to rolling into a stop. Leave it OFF when you restart initially and see if that makes any difference.

[T. Cotten]

Sounds like a Panhead instead of Chief. 1st you said "usually starts pretty well when cold" Definitely could be related to the hot start issue as well.
6 or 12 volt?

What's the difference, if everything is in order, Jason?

Points or electronic ignition?

What's the difference, if everything is in order?

Peak intake seals?

I think you mean PEEK, and the question is: "fitted" or "cookie-cutter"?

Properly vented fuel caps?

It "runs very well once started."

Prepare with wrench handy and pull a spark plug right after a no hot start issue and see what it looks like.

Reading plugs with modern fuel is futile.

Try shutting the fuel off several seconds prior to rolling into a stop. Leave it OFF when you restart initially and see if that makes any difference.

What's it mean if it does, Jason?

Thanks in advance,

...Cotten

[tomfiii]

Sometimes I kick mine with wide open throttle 2-3 times ,then sit down and take a few minute break and usually 1-2 kicks and it starts. I have a mag.

[Skirted]

Mr Cotten, I'm throwing things out to stimulate conversation which can be lackluster here. I learned that from you, the master conversation stimulator.

What's the difference, if everything is in order, Jason?

6 volt it doesn't take much voltage loss to cause a start problem. I had issue where charging was great at 6.8 but new battery was bad. Ran great because of charging voltage. Once shut off the battery was down to 5 volts but would slowly recover itself enough and bike would start. Thought it was because it was cooling off but no. Plus - Everything is not in order if it doesn't start reliably when cold.

What's the difference, if everything is in order?

Again - Everything is not in order. Most of the time they are OK but I have seen electronic ignitions cause trouble. Probably not a concern but could be if new info surfaces. With your wisdom, I know you know everyone's definition of "everything is in order" is not consistent across the board on forums?

I think you mean PEEK, and the question is: "fitted" or "cookie-cutter"?

Busted on the spelling... but does the misspelling take on a new definition in context of intake seals? Yes rhetorical. I was going to suggest to the OP to spray intake gland nuts with Gumout while idling for a fast redneck leak check, but knew I would be put in jail.

It "runs very well once started."

Seeing as how caps vent both directions, poorly vented cap in the direction of outgoing air (not under vacuum) creates more pressure in system right after a hot bike is shut off, possibly overcoming the needle/seat. Yea long shot maybe but not standing beside the bike, would you bet your life its not an issue?

Reading plugs with modern fuel is futile.

What if after a bunch of kicks the plug is dry? Is modern fuel not able to make a plug look soaking wet in a flooded condition? Afterall we don't even know what fuel the OP is running?

What's it mean if it does, Jason?

If there's a problem with float level or some other reason fuel is allowed to percolate when hot, shutting fuel off with engine still running can alleviate that condition by lowering level in bowl. My bike starts just fine with fuel valves off. Sometimes even easier. I've tested it unintentionally enough times to know.

Thanks in advance,

Your welcome!
Jason

...Cotten

[/QUOTE]

[T. Cotten]

Short-of-time replies, Jason,..

I'm not a fan of elektronic ignitions either.

Spraying crap is forgiveable, but advising it ain't.

PEEK is great when properly applied. Cookie-cutter mass- productions spoiled the "brand".

Ain't s'posed to be no percolations. (I've never seen it, but I've heard flatty tanks "bump"!)

....Cotten
PS: Manifold icing is another one of those legendary phenomenon that I never encountered. I sure tried.

[pisten-bully]

...this is stupid, but one time I stopped for gas 100+ miles out, kicked and kicked and no start...sheesh. Lots of advice from onlookers but I finally took one onlooker's offer to roll it a couple blocks and store it in his barn overnight. Next morning...no start. Finally, light dawned on marble head and I pushed the clutch pedal a very small amount to the footboard ...and voila the Chief came to life on the very next kick! Clutch needed a little adjustment ..because even though there was resistance from compression when I kicked it over, the clutch was slipping and the motor wasn't turning over fast enough!

I said it was stupid!

[T. Cotten]

...this is stupid, but one time I stopped for gas 100+ miles out, kicked and kicked and no start...sheesh. Lots of advice from onlookers but I finally took one onlooker's offer to roll it a couple blocks and store it in his barn overnight. Next morning...no start. Finally, light dawned on marble head and I pushed the clutch pedal a very small amount to the footboard ...and voila the Chief came to life on the very next kick! Clutch needed a little adjustment ..because even though there was resistance from compression when I kicked it over, the clutch was slipping and the motor wasn't turning over fast enough!

I said it was stupid!

As I have always preached, Harry,

Whether an Indian or harley,

A stiff clutch is stupid.

....Cotten
PS: Caveat: Unless you have the need, and are able to, tune one for enduro duty.

[DEEBS47Chief1991]

All good suggestions especially the manifold seals. But one of the most overlooked issues when this happens is valve adjustment. If the lash is too close (or closed) the bike with be very hard to start when hot. When was the last time the lash was checked? At 1500 miles after a rebuild it should be looked at.


DSCN2827.JPG

[T. Cotten]

Have you observed one 'percolate', Jason?

Can you please describe it?

(There was one spring morning when I was working in an open garage and a gentle storm approached. I heard a funny gurgle as three of five or so parked Linkert-equipt machines purged their bowls. So I can believe anything.)

Thanks in advance,

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cossack 38,

Have you remedied your "Hot Start" issue?