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Deebs, thanks for posting Mike's tutorial on the oil filter. I have a comment here... as you see in the video, if you look at the bottom of the filter, you will notice what appears to be a silver like swath of debris on the outside of the dirty filter. That is probably aluminum, and not metal. Some people use a magnet, with a strap around it to mount on either the feed tube (5/16), or the 1/4" return tube You have to put the magnet (with mounting clip), on the feed tube. If the magnet is on the return line, it won't allow the filter to properly seat itself on the bottom of the return line.
What I've done is use one of Ed Glasgow's 1/4" plug fitting w/magnet attached on the drain fitting. That way, any debris swishing around the bottom of the oil tank will be drawn toward the magnet, away from the bottom of the filter.
I don't like the quick-drain fitting at all. I've had debris stuck under the o-ring, causing the self closing valve to leak. I don't like the looks of the quick-drain either. The square head 1/4" pipe thread drain fitting looks, and is, correct. Ed's magnet mounted fitting is a much better choice. You can see if you have metal in your oil as soon as you do an oil change. Its the first thing you do when you drain the oil !! You'll have a black fuzz all over the magnet.
I also made a special "drip pan", using a thin piece of tin sheet metal, about 5x12 shaped in a "V", drilled 2 holes in the upper corners, attached a piece of wire, about 6-7 inches long. Put the "V" shaped drain pan, in behind the tank fittings, then secure it with the wire up close to the fittings , on the under side of the tank.
I also use a piece of plastic coated cloth (an old picnic tablecloth), large enough to cover over the cylinder head, to avoid any messy spilled oil. The "V" pan then sits down inside a designated dirty oil bucket right next to the footboard, until the dirty oil is completely drained from the tank.
With very little set up time preparing for my oil change, I can get the process done without too much time wasted, waiting around for the tank to completely drain. Then I wash the dirty oil filter with gasoline and air dry it with the shop air compressor. Then I swab the inside of the empty tank with a gas soaked rag to remove any debris left inside, on the bottom. Now the tank is ready to re-fill with clean oil. The filter cleans up pretty well if you wash it and clean it good. I reuse the oil filter about 3-4 times. This all takes less than 30 minutes.
One more "old Indian trick"... Its for the Oil Level in the tank. I made a "dip stick" to check accurately, the oil level in the tank. The "dip-stick" is made from a 3/4" wide, 3" long piece of asoup can, with the ribbed surface, leaving the lowest portion of the cut soup can "smooth". The top 1/2" of the cut tin can is bent at 90' , and will be JB Welded to the inside of the Oil Cap. The smooth section is about an inch, the ribbed section is about 2 1/2". This end will extend down into the tank. The thin piece of tim is flexible enough to go down in the tank, even with the KIWI filter. It may bend slightly, but the dip stick won't hinder or cause issues with the return tube. Use only an Oil Cap with metal on the underside. NOT an Oil Cap with the plastic breather vent.
If you only have the plastic breather type, you must find a different way to attach the "dip stick". Maybe a tiny self tapping screw, drilled into the plastic... I don't know, you'd be on your own for this one... I used to keep an old paint stir-stick in my saddlebag. Now, there is no more guessing how much oil you may need to add. I've put these 'dip sticks" on all my chiefs.
I've got a couple of friends who have tried this and they really like the results. It takes the guesswork out of adding a half-quart after a long extended ride.
Again, sorry for the detailed response. I don't have a camera available... maybe someday I will.
C2K
What I've done is use one of Ed Glasgow's 1/4" plug fitting w/magnet attached on the drain fitting. That way, any debris swishing around the bottom of the oil tank will be drawn toward the magnet, away from the bottom of the filter.
I don't like the quick-drain fitting at all. I've had debris stuck under the o-ring, causing the self closing valve to leak. I don't like the looks of the quick-drain either. The square head 1/4" pipe thread drain fitting looks, and is, correct. Ed's magnet mounted fitting is a much better choice. You can see if you have metal in your oil as soon as you do an oil change. Its the first thing you do when you drain the oil !! You'll have a black fuzz all over the magnet.
I also made a special "drip pan", using a thin piece of tin sheet metal, about 5x12 shaped in a "V", drilled 2 holes in the upper corners, attached a piece of wire, about 6-7 inches long. Put the "V" shaped drain pan, in behind the tank fittings, then secure it with the wire up close to the fittings , on the under side of the tank.
I also use a piece of plastic coated cloth (an old picnic tablecloth), large enough to cover over the cylinder head, to avoid any messy spilled oil. The "V" pan then sits down inside a designated dirty oil bucket right next to the footboard, until the dirty oil is completely drained from the tank.
With very little set up time preparing for my oil change, I can get the process done without too much time wasted, waiting around for the tank to completely drain. Then I wash the dirty oil filter with gasoline and air dry it with the shop air compressor. Then I swab the inside of the empty tank with a gas soaked rag to remove any debris left inside, on the bottom. Now the tank is ready to re-fill with clean oil. The filter cleans up pretty well if you wash it and clean it good. I reuse the oil filter about 3-4 times. This all takes less than 30 minutes.
One more "old Indian trick"... Its for the Oil Level in the tank. I made a "dip stick" to check accurately, the oil level in the tank. The "dip-stick" is made from a 3/4" wide, 3" long piece of asoup can, with the ribbed surface, leaving the lowest portion of the cut soup can "smooth". The top 1/2" of the cut tin can is bent at 90' , and will be JB Welded to the inside of the Oil Cap. The smooth section is about an inch, the ribbed section is about 2 1/2". This end will extend down into the tank. The thin piece of tim is flexible enough to go down in the tank, even with the KIWI filter. It may bend slightly, but the dip stick won't hinder or cause issues with the return tube. Use only an Oil Cap with metal on the underside. NOT an Oil Cap with the plastic breather vent.
If you only have the plastic breather type, you must find a different way to attach the "dip stick". Maybe a tiny self tapping screw, drilled into the plastic... I don't know, you'd be on your own for this one... I used to keep an old paint stir-stick in my saddlebag. Now, there is no more guessing how much oil you may need to add. I've put these 'dip sticks" on all my chiefs.
I've got a couple of friends who have tried this and they really like the results. It takes the guesswork out of adding a half-quart after a long extended ride.
Again, sorry for the detailed response. I don't have a camera available... maybe someday I will.
C2K
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