Questions on installation of tank decals, what process works

[bdawson]

Hello All. I am looking for some information along with your opinion on tank decals. This weekend I put on a couple of "Indian" script waterslide decals on my '32 Chief. They didn't look the best because there was some border/film that extends about 1/4 inch all the way around the decal. It cracked and bubbled some and just didn't look good, so I took them both off and now I am back to square 1. I guess first question is, should I have trimmed the entire decal so there is no border around the script? My tanks have been painted and clear coated already.

I have learned that I have to be very careful with this decal process because if I put a layer or 2 of clearcoat over the decal, whatever clearcoat I use or whatever type of decal I use....there might be a reaction and the decal would crumble or crack or disintegrate...and then I would have to start over again and possibly re clear or repaint the tanks? I guess I am looking for answers to 3 questions. What is the process that everyone uses to assure a very nice looking decal, should I be using vinyl or waterslide decals, and thirdly...is there some go to guy who sells decals that I should be going to? Thanks for the help everyone!

[otis71]

There are excellent instructions online as far as installation. As far as clear coats go you have to be careful. I bought an extra set of the same decals, installed them on a spare tank in little pieces and experimented. I ended uses a clear wood finish that didn’t attack the decals but my understanding is different ones have different characteristics. There are a couple vendors in the magazine in the classified section that sell decals. I think one is strictly HD but you’ll have to check.

[KNUCK]

Depends on what you are after. Indian never used clear coat over their decals. To make your decal more durable some typically would clear coat now days. I put some water slide decals on a tank last year and they look good, no clear. Testing on a sample part is likely the best when you need to clear. I don't like vinyl decals when they came with water slide originally, especially on older bikes.

[pisten-bully]

...and Classic Transfers gives some advice including a short video:

https://classictransfers.co.uk/how-t...ide-transfers/

[exeric]

1. let the decal thoroughly dry for around a week.
2. Very lightly mist the decal with the clear you intend to use and let that cure for a few days.
3. Build a few coats of clear and allow for drying between coats before you load it on. Still no guarantees that it won't go pear shaped with heavier coats of clear.

I always expect to cut, and buff a clear coat so I don't care about orange peel or an uneven finish. I'm describing a modern finish that is done for protection, and looks, and not authentic. Factory paint jobs were very nice, but not as glossy, and shiny, but more beautiful in their own way. Also, 30s vintage decals were very different than modern water slide decals and had to be applied with a glue like sizing, and protected with copal varnish. Those decals were remarkably thin, and very difficult to apply. The copal varnish was also applied over pin stripes and generally not over all the painted tanks, and fenders. You'll see varnish 'yellowing' at the edges of decals, and stipes on o.p. era paint.

The picture is of a 1916 Excelsior tank I painted. The gray was single stage enamel, the maroon stripe was also ss enamel, the pin stripes were all One Shot striping enamel, and the bright red panel was hardware store Krylon. All clear coated with a quality automotive clear. I was very concerned that something was going to lift, or wrinkle but was resigned that it would be a time consuming job.

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[bdawson]

thank you all