Schebler DLX 81 Carb question - '32 Chief

[bdawson]

I just recently purchased a DLX 81 carb body, but I am missing the bowl. I asked around at Davenport this past weekend, but no luck. Can someone tell me what model carbs utilize the same bowl as the DLX 81? I would like to be able to ask "do you have any bowls for Schebler model DLX 81, DLX??, DLX??, etc instead of asking such a specific question pertinent to only DLX 81. OR is the bowl for the DLX 81 only going to fit on the DLX 81 body? I'm assuming several bowls may be correct for that model Schebler, but I don't know for sure either way. I currently have a couple Linkert M6/M6A's which are replacements for a 32 chief, but I would like to try and get the Schebler to work if possible since the bike was born with that carb. Thanks again for any thoughts on this.

[T. Cotten]

My best guess, Brent,..

It would look like the one on the lower left...

image_39760.jpg

It is the ZAMAK 'short bowl' (with 'tin lid'), followed by the 'long bowl' on the upper right, somewhere around the beginning of the DLX90s.

Shoulda looked me up at D-port; I remember your father.

....Cotten

[bdawson]

Thanks for the pictures Mr. Cotten, Now I at least know what the bowl looks like. Would have liked to have met you at Davenport and to have a chat....we probably walked past each other going down one of the aisles.

[T. Cotten]

....we probably walked past each other going down one of the aisles.

You didn't have a '32 parts wanted shirt on, did you, Brent?

....Cotten

[bdawson]

No that wasn't me....I did talk to that guy though. Diesel Dave I think he called himself.

[T. Cotten]

Back to your DLX81, Brent,...

How solid do your bowlstem threads look?

And we still need verified specs, Folks!: https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...-setting-specs

....Cotten

[bdawson]

Here are a couple of pics of the bowl stem threads. I think the threads look pretty good....the stem is rough.

[T. Cotten]

That is a brass repair upon your bowlstem threads, Loch...

Be very very careful with it, as often they break off the rest of the bowlstem.

Please try to determine how it was attached. (It can't possibly be solder?) Let us hope the needle seat was not destroyed.

Can the main nozzle and venturi still be removed for cleaning?

Good luck.

...Cotten

[bdawson]

yes Cotten, the main nozzle and venturi can be removed for cleaning. I may just end up running a Linkert M6 as I have a really good one of those. May just keep the Schebler in case parts fall into my lap someday. I'm a ways from getting it started anyway....maybe a year. May end up seeing if I can take the Schebler apart during the winter when it is too cold to go into the garage. thx for the thoughts and guidance.

[T. Cotten]

Wow, Brent!

A two-screw intake? Ideal!
M6EARLY2.JPG
Love the casting sprue behind the number boss..

(or a later Beck Indian M6?)

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

Buddy Holly and the Crickets.

9/10 Went on the evil net and on 2 differant fb groups (Vintage Indian 1901-53 Owners Group and Linkert "M" Series Discussion Group) posted the following:

Asking for a friend:
Does anyone have any literature references for float level settings for '29-'33 potmetal Scheblers?
Such as:
1929 Henderson KJ DLX-76
1930-1932 Indian 4 cyl DLX-77
1932 Indian 30/50 Scout Pony DLX-78
1931-1934 45" Indian 101 Scout DLX-79
1930 H-D V DLX-80
1930-1932 74" Indian Chief DLX-81
Thanks in advance

1 comment on the Linkert group mentioned

"Check 1928 shebler service station guide."

(Less than helpful)

9/12 on the Vintage Owners Group received this reply:

"I believe the DLX serie used 1/4" (same as Linkert M serie), at least 1/4" is what is used on the DLX130"

No literature reference but recognized the respondent name from Virtual Indian.

Will post anymore responses.

Hope this helps.

[T. Cotten]

I appreciate your efforts on other platforms, Paul!
(Ain't no way I'm goin' there...)

Are we to believe there were no float setting instructions in any manuals, even Harley's, Folks?

Here we have late potmetal instructions that equates to a quarter inch if you add the lid and gasket:
Srvsht99.jpg
Or was this to apply to the beanpot? (It is comforting that so many do well with the quarter-inch mantra!)

Note however, the pivot pin to lip of bowl distance for the later bowls was different from the early 'short' potmetal bowls.

For comparison,..

Schebler bowl top to pivot bearing center:

DLX bronze bowl 7/16"
Potmetal "short" bowl without lid 3/8"
Potmetal 'long' bowl without lid 11/32"
Beanpot 11/32" (float extends .110" above lever, implying a .234" or 15/64" setting)

Comparing Linkert bowl top to pivot center:

SV 1/2"
OHV 7/16"

,,,Yet both Linkerts were spec'd to a quarter inch, presumeably equalled by a fat gasket on OHVs?

(I also lack scans of M53 series manuals that spec'd 3/16", as they apparently used a fat gasket. My experience with that series is quite limited.)

I'll never figure out carburetors.

....Cotten

[Peter Cooke]

"Check 1928 shebler service station guide."

From the 1928 Service Station Guide. 7/16" seems a lot though.

7. FLOAT HEIGHTS. In addition to being in the center of the bowl the float must be set exactly level and at the following height measured from the top of the float to the top of the bowl when the float valve is seated: 1" and 1 1/4" De Luxe = 7/16"

[T. Cotten]

From the 1928 Service Station Guide. 7/16" seems a lot though.

7. FLOAT HEIGHTS. In addition to being in the center of the bowl the float must be set exactly level and at the following height measured from the top of the float to the top of the bowl when the float valve is seated: 1" and 1 1/4" De Luxe = 7/16"

Unfortunately, Peter,..

That pre-dates the potmetal (ZAMAK) designs.

The hole in our literature seems to be from '29 to '39; Its hard to believe neither the MOCO nor the Wigwam would include it in their manuals.

Or that some lit collectors are just too covetous to share.

....Cotten