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  • Removing rust inside of tanks,

    Old topic, new to me:
    Just need good advice on cleaning interior of tanks with surface rust with chips found when swisher with gasoline. Thanks in advance
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Here are some recent threads, Moto!

    https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...m-i-looking-at

    https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...n-up-the-worst

    https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...mended-vendors

    The forum search function works sometimes....

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 08-15-2023, 05:54 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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    • #3
      I'm cleaning/sealing my tanks today actually. I bought POR 15 product from Jerry Greer. It is a 3 step process. cleaner/degreaser.....rust remover....then sealer. I am at the rust remover step now, seems to get alot of the rust/crud out.

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      • #4
        POR 15 works great in my kerosene heater tanks, Brent!

        baked perfection.JPG

        But I'll never trust it with P4gas again.

        ....Cotten
        PS: I produce fuelgauge floats for Perfection Heaters, Folks!
        Last edited by T. Cotten; 08-15-2023, 01:58 PM.
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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        • #5
          I just went through this with my '48FL tanks last weekend. Not a lot of rust, but enough to guilt me into taking the journey. As stated in a number of the posts Tom provided links for, I also use white vinegar as a rust eater. I like it above all other rust eaters because it's cheap, re-usable (up to a point), and somewhat non-toxic (I think). Because it's affordable, I can fill the tanks to the full fluid capacity and let the vinegar do it's job on every inside surface. I use baking soda to neutralize the vinegar acid, run a garden hose of clean water through the tanks, use aquarium gravel to aggravate any cling-ons, and rinse with more clean water. I use a leaf blower to dry the inside of the tanks, and follow that (very carefully) with an acetone slosh. More leaf blower, and then I use Red-Kote tank sealer. I've heard people say to always keep your tanks full of gas, but modern gas may be causing a lot of the problems in bikes that sit for unpredictable amounts of time. . . . Tank prep, and maintenance is always an interesting, and worthwhile topic; particularly for lead soldered tanks.
          Eric Smith
          AMCA #886

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          • #6
            What is best for removing the old tank liner.

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            • #7
              Depends upon the liner, Paul!

              Some of them only need P4gas.

              Otherwise, you might experiment with acetone, toluene, methyl ethyl ketone, etc., and combinations thereof.

              Carefully. There will always be a mechanical step; It never just washes out.

              ....Cotten
              AMCA #776
              Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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              • #8
                What is P4 Gas?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Paultrehberg View Post
                  What is P4 Gas?
                  Say it real slow a few times, Paul...

                  Its not nearly as bad as it was, but you still never know what's coming out of the next pump.

                  .....Cotten
                  AMCA #776
                  Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                  • #10
                    This is a link to a thread that I started on a old car related website concerning rust removal. Some of the respondents couldn't get past the fact that even if you use citric acid, the SOLUTION of the two ingredients (citric acid AND tetrasodium EDTA) is NON-ACIDIC.
                    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-14772256
                    TOM

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                    • #11
                      One of the best rust-removal methods on the market is Evaporust. Use a plug like you normally would in the tank gas fitting(s) and fill the tank. Let it sit for 24hrs, empty and check for residue. Then, rinse with water and dry out. For external parts, you would wire brush at this point, though for tanks, dry and apply your tank sealer. This is a non-toxic method you can use on any corrosion-removal problem you have with a fastener or metal part on the bike. If you can't buy enough to fill the tank, use the same rotation process for the chemical formulas normally used. All you most-likely saw as remnants were trapped corrosion particles unless someone did repair work at some point and the particles are patch material, etc.,.
                      There are many effective methods. I used Evaporust on an Indian Vertical gas tank restoration because it was cost-effective and non-toxic.
                      -JR

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                      • #12
                        Thanks to all for suggestions and advice on how clean and remove the rust from my tanks.

                        moto1969

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