Hello all. I am new to the site (and certainly new to restorations) and have been posting some introductory messages on the "Welcome" Forum for about a week now, to get use to how this process works. Glad to have met a bunch of you. Anyway, I am having some issues trying to mount the '32 oil pump. I'm sorry that I don't know the technical terms for things, so please bear with me. I cant get the oil pump to mount flush. It is obvious that the post that is coming out of the right side of the motor should fit into the hole in the oil pump, but there seems to be a little rotary gear inside of the oil pump that needs to mesh with the post coming out of the side of the motor. When I slowly push the kick starter down, that post rotates. Am I supposed to hold the hole of the oil pump over the post, and rotate the engine until the gears mesh, and it somehow pulls the oil pump closer to the motor? Just putting the oil pump over the post doesn't work as that rotary gear inside of the oil pump is hitting the screw threads on the post about half way into the hole. I'm sorry for all the questions that are sure to come from me, but I am just beginning this process. The pump didn't come off of the bike, I sourced the pump as the bike didn't have one when I purchased it. Secondly....I'm assuming the oil pump is in need of some servicing. Can anyone explain to me what needs to be done and how to do it? Cant find how to service a '32 oil pump in any literature or books. Thanks very much for any of your thoughts on this.
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1932 Chief Oil Pump mounting question
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The vertical shaft inside the oil pump is the plunger, the horizontal shaft coming out of the cam case is a camshaft that also drives the oil pump, the two have to mesh like this:
615D5DE4-6FB0-4FA1-BABA-BFC282BF249C.jpeg
Hard to tell from your photo, but it might be that the gearing on your plunger shaft is all messed up and so the two won't mesh. Should be able to set the pump onto the camshaft gear, then rotate the pump itself to engage the gears. Good luck, that pump appears well used but it's fairly elementary in design so you can hopefully rebuild it!Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.
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BD
I've only ever done this with my 46.
I used a bit of grease on the camshaft gear and on the plunger shaft teeth;
That said: DOES your oi pump plunger shaft rotate?
As above they should Mesh.
The only thing I found in the library on point was Indian Service Shots and that was adjustment not install.
PS
Either Geers or Kiwi would be able to do a rebuildLast edited by PaulCDF; 03-19-2023, 07:24 PM.
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There is a conversation on the 'Virtual Indian' site right now about the plunger component of the oil pump. The conversation is in regards to later pumps but the concept, and function is similar. Good information, and worth a look.Eric Smith
AMCA #886
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thanks for the comments everyone. I'm not sure if the plunger shaft in the oil pump itself can rotate, as I didn't want to force it to much for fear of breaking it. Not sure how to get it to rotate. By turning the big, giant, screw? Will probably end up sending it to Todd at Greer. thanks again.
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The pump is probably gummed up if the plunger's not turning. Take it all apart, clean all the parts, lube them and reassemble. If the plunger turns freely, the pump will slide on the shaft - you might need to rock it a bit to get the gears to mesh. Take pictures while taking it apart so you can put it back in the right order.A. Bernhardt
AMCA# 9726
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BD
On my more modern 46 cast iron pump I was able to rotate the plunger with my little finger directly AFTER it was rebuilt before it was frozen.
Perhaps a good long soak in your penetrating oil of choice?
Attached are a couple of pictures of 1933-37 oil pumps I "borrowed." from Jacob Junkers site:
Jacob Junker 1933-37 oil pumps A.jpgJacob Junker 1933-37 oil pumps B.jpg
Keep us posted.
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You have a 2 year only oil pump, 30 and 31. Sounds like the "barrel" as I call it is stuck. It rotates inside the pump body and should do so freely
. You definitely need to disassemble the entire pump and clean everything very thoroughly and carefully inspect it all. Remove the slotted head cap screw and it should come out. BEWARE!!! That cap is a left hand thread!
The 101 overhaul manual has a section on the 28-31 oil pump. The only difference between the 31-32 and the 28-30 pump is the addition of the throttle controlled adjuster. The other difference is the adjustment screw for 31-32 works the opposite direction of the early one. I'll see if I can post some of the pump info from the 101 manual.
In the mean time, carefully soak and disassemble....
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Have disassembled the oil pump, cleaned everything about 80%. Have one more good cleaning to do, then putting it back together. Going to make my own gaskets....anyone have any thoughts on what size to use? 1/32? 1/64? more/less? also, I assume I use oil (and not grease) on everything when putting it back together. Any particular kind or weight you would recommend?You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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BD
Nice work, Good Job!
Under good light carefully inspect the mating surfaces of your cam case and your oil pump: Any deep scratches, gouges or tool marks perhaps from other "paws" that have worked on this machine in the past 80 years? IMO the more or deeper any such marks argue for a thicker gasket, if things are pretty pristine go with thinner material. No opinion on oiling gasket prior to assembly.
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Brent, A gentle lap on the oil pump body to get rid of any high spots, same on the timing cover as best you can with the worm gear sticking out. No preference really on gasket thickness. I do use a very thin layer of RTV on both sides of the gasket. Yes, oil all the internal parts with a light oil as you assemble them. As I recall, the vertical barrel with the throttle controlled mechanism needs some light grease, I don't think it really has oil in it.
Then once fully assembled, be sure to bleed ALL of the air out of the pump by removing the bleed screw near the oil line. Let it run until there are no bubbles in the oil coming out.
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