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  • Brass Fuel Valve - Restore?

    This valve (I think original) had developed some slow seepage and got worse this past season. I have read about being able to restore the tapered seating surfaces so it seals but would like suggestions on best way to tackle this. I can see by the design there isn't any margin for error as if I remove too much material the stem will sit too low in the body and then the spring will become ineffective to hold tension on it.
    Thanks in advance
    Attached Files
    Jason Zerbini
    #21594
    Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
    Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

  • #2
    Some people use toothpaste, others use super fine valve grinding compound. Certainly, you'll want to use something thats not too aggressive removing material. Lap in the seat carefully. Some cut the spring just a smidge. Don't do that.

    Starklite sells a repop valve that is sprayed with a material that holds up pretty well.
    But over time... they all leak. Or they stiffen up to become a PITA. For most riders, heres a great alternative.

    If you're fussy about being "correct" its the price you pay. If you want something that works... call Ed Glasgow ! He has a really great fuel valve (a ball valve, steel seat, correct fittings and spacing to fit standard fuel lines currently available, and a handle that works well). He also offers the valve with a screen.

    I've been using them for several years now. They work ! Never had any leaks. I modified the handle with a slight twist, so it didn't appear to look too obvious.
    The only other thing I've done is locktite the nut that holds the lever.

    Of course, if you HAVE to have an original or correct fuel valve, look elsewhere !! These little valves meet a need for the everyday rider. For the purist, not so much'
    For leaks and a safety concern, the "Ed's Fuel Valve" works the best. About $25, extra for the screen version, you will be pleasantly rewarded.

    Ed's Indian Bolt's
    998 Dutch Hill Rd.
    Tully, NY 13159
    315 696-8076
    ed53ind@aol.com

    Good Luck C2K

    Comment


    • #3
      I definitely agree with ChiefTwoKicks about the excellent quality of Ed Glasgow's petcocks. While not a reproduction/copy of the originals, they work if you ride your m/c. I have used a set for years... No leaks, always easy to turn on/off, even when riding down the road with gloves on.
      I recommend getting the set with the built filter screens. Ed personally solders the screens to the petcocks.
      As a sidenote, ChiefTwoKicks makes excellent quality hardware for Indians. Been using his stuff for many years also.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Skirted View Post
        This valve (I think original) had developed some slow seepage and got worse this past season. I have read about being able to restore the tapered seating surfaces so it seals but would like suggestions on best way to tackle this. I can see by the design there isn't any margin for error as if I remove too much material the stem will sit too low in the body and then the spring will become ineffective to hold tension on it.
        Thanks in advance
        I would put the plug in a drill press or lathe and polish lightly with a strip of 400 and 600 grit.Then roll sand paper to a cone and hit the inside.Some grease and try it.
        Tom

        Comment


        • #5
          ChiefTwoKicks here... sorry officer, I think you're mistaking me for someone else. I don't know what you mean by "makes excellent quality hardware"... I'l will admit to being a maker of excellent quality trouble though... that's all I know how to make !!

          C2K

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the replies. Its my nature to not want to condemn an original part, sometimes to a fault, but agree fuel leaks of any kind are most undesirable. I will make one attempt to repair and if not successful, I'll order from Ed and probably just replace both at same time.
            Jason Zerbini
            #21594
            Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
            Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

            Comment


            • #7
              Does anyone have any experience with Greer's petcocks? A little pricey at $150, and though they look good, not sure about functionality. I was considering them, but was also told about Ed's.

              What about Conrad Lytle's? I have seen ads for his as well.

              Comment


              • #8
                Greer's are good
                Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I lapped an original with progressively finer Clover compounds, Folks,...

                  And even before I reached 6A it got "stick-tion": The finer the finish, the stickier it got.

                  Face it, matching tapers are born to bind: That's why cranks and mains and drivetrains use them for sturdy connections.

                  If only there was a lubricant that withstands fuels. (Baked-on Moly was my best shot at it, but sadly I only had one chance.)

                  ....Cotten
                  AMCA #776
                  Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I was given a left side harley original that had a visible groove too deep to lap, though I got it as close as I could. I then took red silicone and coated both pieces, pushed them together, and worked it back and forth forcing it into any irregularity left. I took the 2 valve parts apart to clean up excess making sure to clear the passageway the fuel travels through. I pushed them back together, put the spring and washer on, and allowed it to dry for 24 hours. I was told that it would probably not hold. It has now been 3 years totally leak free. Go figure..

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jorrow View Post
                      I was given a left side harley original that had a visible groove too deep to lap, though I got it as close as I could. I then took red silicone and coated both pieces, pushed them together, and worked it back and forth forcing it into any irregularity left. I took the 2 valve parts apart to clean up excess making sure to clear the passageway the fuel travels through. I pushed them back together, put the spring and washer on, and allowed it to dry for 24 hours. I was told that it would probably not hold. It has now been 3 years totally leak free. Go figure..
                      Such luck, Jeff!

                      I use fuel to remove silicone.

                      SILICONY.jpg

                      ....Cotten
                      Last edited by T. Cotten; 02-01-2022, 05:14 PM.
                      AMCA #776
                      Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        There is a product called EZ Turn that is a lubricant - sealant used in the aircraft and marine industry. Good for high temperature and high octane fuels. Not supposed to gum, crack or dry out. Recommended for tapered plug valves. Sold by Aircraft Spruce a supplier for the aircraft industry.
                        Jim D

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have had the same petcocks on my 1948 Indian Chief since 1996, 50,000 miles and they work fine. An old time Indian guy told me to slightly pull out on the petcock while turning to lift it off the seat.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jim d View Post
                            There is a product called EZ Turn that is a lubricant - sealant used in the aircraft and marine industry. Good for high temperature and high octane fuels. Not supposed to gum, crack or dry out. Recommended for tapered plug valves. Sold by Aircraft Spruce a supplier for the aircraft industry.
                            I've used this product on brass petcocks and it does a good job of keeping them from seizing up. Also stops the seepage, for a while. After a year or two you'll probably need to disassemble and re-apply.

                            Peter

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                            • #15
                              I use polishing compound to seat the surfaces then coat lightly with paraffin wax. Redo yearly. Been working good on 1946 Chief original peacock.

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