chief 12v battery recommedation

[tfburke3]

any recommendatins for 12v battery( AGM?) to fit in Starklite fake chief case.Electronic regulator.
Thanks
Tom

[PaulCDF]

Here is what I am running. Built the little wooden "cradle" which I duct tape the battery into to reduce vibrations as I had one of the the "slip over" shells.
Since I have bought a 'slip into shell' with removable top which I prefer. I minimize vibration in this shell with pieces of swimming pool "floaties", Hey
don't look at me it was time those kids learned how to swim!!! I am running 12 volt Cycle Electrics; Brillman 3 Ohm coil; and standard points. Hope that helps.

Battery.jpg

[tfburke3]

Thnaks for the recommendation Paul but 4.5ah seems pretty small.
It looks like I can get in the 12-18ah range with a "Yausa replacement "ytx14l or x20chbs.
Yuasa brand are surprisingly more than the replacements.
Shorai seems to mentioned often so Ill take a look at them to.
Tom

[bernhardt]

Tom, I use a Big Boar mini. 12v 350 cold cranking amps, sealed glass matt, made to start those large displacement choppers and Harleys. More than enough for the old Chief. Fits in the Stark shell, but not the fake Indian battery shells. Check the measurements, they make several sizes.

[pisten-bully]

I've got a YB12AL-A in my shell from Greer. Lead acid, it's my second one, the first lasted three years. Note that it's maybe 1/16" to 1/8" too tall to fit in the Greer's shell, but I had two shell bases (because I lost one cover on a big bump) so I simply cut the bottom out of one of the shells and the battery sits on a rubber pad, the shell without the bottom also rests on the pad so there's no visible gap.

[T. Cotten]

I've got a YB12AL-A in my shell from Greer. Lead acid, it's my second one, the first lasted three years. Note that it's maybe 1/16" to 1/8" too tall to fit in the Greer's shell, but I had two shell bases (because I lost one cover on a big bump) so I simply cut the bottom out of one of the shells and the battery sits on a rubber pad, the shell without the bottom also rests on the pad so there's no visible gap.

Wow Harry!

I've got a dead Eversure that needs to be gutted, and it will sure be a lot easier now that I know to make the bottom removeable too...

Thanks!

....Cotten

[tfburke3]

Tom, I use a Big Boar mini. 12v 350 cold cranking amps, sealed glass matt, made to start those large displacement choppers and Harleys. More than enough for the old Chief. Fits in the Stark shell, but not the fake Indian battery shells. Check the measurements, they make several sizes.

Thanks Bernhardt,That is an ideal battery except the price($175)You have electric start?
The Agms in 12ah from Yuasa and Deka,both made in usa in $75 range are what
im thinking of so far.
I have had 7 years out of my last three Deka agms in 2000 flht, and althought pisten-bullys lead acid is half that the 3 years reported life isnt much saving and I would like maintenance free.
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Tom

[PRG]

Howdy chaps,

Use a versatile and robust setup, though admittedly costly, a typical lead acid Indian battery available over the years hollowed out to take two Shorie BS06’s wired in parallel for 36 amps at 6 volts, or if one is not inclined to purchase their 12v equivalents, a quick wiring change to series yields 18 amps. They last far longer than any LA and event most AGM’s while maintaining standby voltage for up to a year without charging when in storage.

Now, when discussing “shells”. Just an observation. Have seen many failures over the years where people brassed. down the battery bolt onto their frogs with the intent of capturing their battery only to fracture the case or lid later due to vibration. If your generator bracket has sufficient grip on your seat post you need only clamp your battery sufficiently enough to keep if from falling out, especially where fragile fiberglass and retro battery shells are concerned. This grip can be assured by gluing a piece of old inner tube cut to the perimeter of the underside of your frog. You now not only reduce another entry point of vibration to your battery you also have a more secure mounting arrangement.

If going with modern AGM/Lithium batteries it is imperative to get rid of that traditional Indian fusing arrangement of a crude mechanical circuit breaker (CB) on the ground side to the back of the primary and go with a modern automotive 10-15 amp (the former if you have converted to LED’s). CB’s are nothing but a copper thermal decoupler and the reduced internal resistance of modern batteries that enables their rapid discharge rates will have a negative effect on their longevity (like Lithium’s blowing up, ask me how i know) if shorted and the battery not quickly disconnected as this type of CB continues to reset itself.

[pisten-bully]

Tom, FWIW, for me, 3 years = ~17,000 miles. Don't know if 3 years is good or bad, and don't know if it would still stop taking a charge at 3 years if I'd only ridden 3000 miles in that time. I understand that vibration is the main killer of lead acid batteries. This is why they say "your mileage may vary"

[Skirted]

Since you have converted to 2 brush gen w/electronic regulator you might consider the Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 which Peter mentioned. I could not get 2 BS06's to fit in my shell which I think is from Starklite. According to the Starklite website, the BS12 will fit their battery shell. I am on year #9 with the 6 volt counterpart BS06 and it has never been on an external charger. Not even after sitting 5 or 6 months over winter. For the Shorai, preferably your regulator output should be a consistent 14 - 14.4 volt. The minimum is 13.6. You'll want to insure your charging system will maintain that from no load to full load. If it can't maintain at least 13.6 I probably wouldn't use the Shorai. Speculation on my part but I believe the flawless performance in my application is due to a very constant 7.1-7.2 charging rate no matter the load as well as being well padded inside the shell for vibration resistance. Shorai provides various size adhesive back foam pads with each battery. They have specific charging requirements and not all battery chargers are compatible.
One thing I always liked about the Shorai BS06 is that it has an "at rest" voltage of 6.9-7 volt which is probably more helpful with 6 volt systems vs 12. I imagine the BS12 would have a higher at rest than lead acid as well.

[PRG]

Howdy Chaps,

As an extension of what Jason describes, here’s the arrangement I run in my Indians, yes, these are BS06’s in parallel for a 6V app, but the 12 V version is exactly the same size as I run one of those in my R69S. As depicted, they are taped together and stood on end in a hollowed out India made LA battery, a very robust container for these. BUT, I will admit a little more work is involved to accommodate two of these. Not only do the base ribs in the bottom of the battery case need to be ground off with a hole saw the inner sides need to be relieved. This done you now have an inch or so clearance beneath the lid to put your fuse holder (and spare fuses). You will note the lead lugs are drilled and wires soldered to them with them hanging loose. There is not enough clearance to drop this battery arrangement in with them in their original positions. Soooo, I drop the battery pack in and then insert the lugs into their recesses afterward secured with rear view mirror adhesive,

When discussing amp hour ratings and such as seen in previous posts, am sure y’all know this but this is not an apple to apple comparison with traditional LA’s back stopped against modern battery technology. Amp hour ratings are achieved (measured) using criteria beyond a load against discharge. An LA is internally inefficient such that it cannot discharge its capacity at a rapid rate and, most importantly, beyond a certain depth of discharge (DOD) it will harm itself irreparably. That Shorai with the sexy 18 Ah rating placarded on the sides is actually an “adjusted” rating based on its ability to go DOD beyond any AGM or LA (I’m thing 90% or so against 50 to 60 with an LA) without harming itself. If u flip one over on the bottom is the traditional base rating and its only 6ah. These are starter batteries (for big Orange County Chopper contraptions) not storage batteries like we’re accustomed to.

So, if you’re running traditional incandescent lighting with a generator duty cycling at a lower rate (in an urban setting) than an alternator for which all these batteries were designed, and you’re an amperage savant like meself, you probably want a few more in reserve……long spittle laden screed later that’s why I run two of these in parallel.

[tfburke3]

Interesting and informative.
Reading about the lithium iron one thing that surprised me was the very light weight.1.5 lbs compared to 11 lbs for some examples.
I can see why they are popular with sport bikes.
Tom