40 chief center stand castings - Frame Lugs

[NiteOwl]

I broke my center stand castings (on the frame), the other day when I thought I could start my bike and stuff on the stand. Lesson learned, Ive now been advised not to do that as the lugs will inevitably break. I am now looking for some castings information so I can order them and I can have them re-welded. I have scoured all my literature and all the regular sites that I know about and can find no information.. Does anyone know the numbers or information?

[T. Cotten]

It was so long ago I didn't have a digital camera, NiteOwl,..

But since the whole frame is speltered into cast iron members, I built the lugs back up from scratch around an aluminum rod, with air-compressor piston rings for filler.

I believe it is still in service, and hope to see my friend again at D-port this year,...

Disclaimer: Your results may vary.

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

I am hoping you were able to find the broken pieces?
I am wondering if they could be brazed back in placed? Not as strong as a weld but perhaps . . . perhaps enough.
On my 46 the left side center-stand "tab" was missing but thankfully Geer's sells just a Center Stand tab (Indicates to me a lot of them must have broken off over the years)
I was able to grind and braze this tab for a decent fit onto my 46 center-stand. Fix has lasted ~ 3 - 4 years now.
Good luck, let me know what you find.

[NiteOwl]

YES, I do have both pieces as they had just curled around and dropped the stand to the ground when I tried to use it at home. "Lucky it did not drop while ridding". But the good news is I have them, removed now and they look like someone might have welded them before and did not get penetration, I could be completly mistaken though as it maybe the cast fooling me. I can braze, I am also wondering about Cottens method, I dont have any old compressor rings laying around. . . and I have checked and they are cast. I was originally searching for new castings but that might turn into too much of a job thats not necessary as It looks like I would have to cut the frame etc to put them in, WAYYY more work than I want to do as I ride this everyday.

Broken Lugs 1.jpgBroken Lugs 2.jpgBroken Lugs 3.jpgBroken Lugs 4.jpg

[PaulCDF]

Excellent! Somebody up there likes you!
I live in the northeast and would look at this as a 'winter project'.
Ride now and enjoy while planning for repair.

Cotten certainly has a lot more knowledge and experience than I do.

I did have a bit of luck brazing in some 3/8 steel to repair some "buggered" axle castings on my 741:
AFTER and BEFORE pictures (I'll get the hang of this tech someday)
I should have taken pictures BEFORE painting but who knew I'd be posting!

[T. Cotten]

It's cast iron, Folks...

That's why I fixed it with cast iron. But also why it broke in the first place.

If your welder has the skill, silver-soldering Greer's lugs (guessing that they are steel), could conceivably be stronger than the original.

Feel lucky? Sounds like a plan to me...

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

Didn't see lugs on the Greer site, Folks,...

And most common piston rings are cast iron, NiteOwl, I only used what I found because I had no other use for them, but even used motor rings should do.

Although I'll blame the cheesy effect of this Model DC repair upon oil contamination, rather than my lack of experience AND patience.

DCWELD1.JPG

(It was completely missing above the arrows; I saved and carved threads enough to run, but I can always Helicoil it if the customer wants to invest more into it.)

Here's a broken cast iron lawn furniture lug that turned out a lot prettier...
IRNWELD2.jpg

These were Oxy-Acetylene torched. Nobody's ever let me touch a TIG.

The pro's all insisted upon silicon bronze or nickel rod; Carving those fillers to shape is.... expensive.

....Cotten

[NiteOwl]

Cotten, thanks for the pictures and write up. I am not sure if my skills would work for this, I do have welders, gas and also electric. Might grab some piston rings and see if I can make any headway on a test piece for now with my gas. hmmm, your work looks really really nice and solid, great penetration too.

[T. Cotten]

I better admit how I cheat, Folks!

My previous TIGmeister, now retired, positively distained my Henrob Dillon MarkIV torch, because it allowed an amateur to compete.

Here I have a jeweler's tip on it, whereas the largest tip can weld an I-beam.

HENROB.jpg

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

That is a nice torch Cotten, I'll have to look into that.

Question:

Any advice on letting cast cool slowly?

[T. Cotten]

I worry more about the pre-heat, Paul!

But then I am neither schooled, nor a master.

One mentor told be to peen every 'bead', which isn't easy.

....Cotten

[NiteOwl]

I too think I might look into a similar torch and try my skills, haha or lack of skills might come to light.

[T. Cotten]

I think the torch design is unique, NiteOwl!

It only uses 4psi on both gases, and supposedly creates conditions similar to a inert gas TIG, although I really couldn't replicate the aluminum welding demonstrated live in front of me.

Nonetheless, with my immediate applications, it paid for itself quickly, two decades ago.

(Still, I have never pulled off a successful aluminum weld!}

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

4 PSI !!!!
Sounds very economical on the gases!!!!!!
What are your thoughts on "alumaweld" (Low Temperature Aluminum Welding Rods)?
I had good results using that; not for anything Aluminum that was critical just a broken boat hoist guide.

[T. Cotten]

It really annoys my gas supplier, Paul!

They want to see my bottle titles when I exchange one every couple of years..

There's two kinds of "MuggyWeld" I bought for my TIGmeister a couple of years back, but he didn't have much luck with either, and returned them. A cracked Linkert bowl is waiting patiently for me to have the time to experiment.

....Cotten
PS: The torch is special because it has some sort of pre-mixing chamber that gives it a "gas-overlay effect". I really don't know what that means, but its very different to use than a conventional Oxy/Acetylene; The working distance of the flame to the piece is doubled or tripled. Bought it decades ago, and still don't know how to use it right. (Sometimes I feel like "Mr. T" welding with a cutting torch on the "A-Team".)