Oversized case on drive side.

[samsmc1]

I'm working with a '29 101 Scout, but the particular Indian is immaterial and I figure (hope to) that I'd get a better response here.
My drive side case bore is .025 too large for the bushing and the largest oversize I've found is .010 OS.
I tried to make a sleeve to go over the standard bushing, but as I suspected, it collapsed after I installed it on the bushing and began machining it to the correct interference fit.
I'm thinking about having a standard drive side bushing hard chromed and ground to a .002 interference fit.
Has anyone ever tried this and If yes, who did it for you?
I got an insane price here in Houston that's not going to fly.
Thanks
Sam
PS Has anyone tried having Early Chief cylinders nikasil / plasma coated back far enough so that readily available oversize pistons can be used. I can't see resleeving them when I know the new sleeves will be exposed plus weakening the base.

[exeric]

Is there enough material in the case to bore a larger bushing hole? If so, you could make thicker, stronger bushing for the case bushing. I agree that hard chroming an undersize bushing, and regrinding would be a good way to go, but it's easy to imagine how expensive that could be to achieve a concentric bushing. I have to believe that you're going through all of this because the original bushing spun in the case and made a big hole. My concern would be if your left side main bearing hole is still in-line with the pinion side hole.

[samsmc1]

Is there enough material in the case to bore a larger bushing hole? If so, you could make thicker, stronger bushing for the case bushing. I agree that hard chroming an undersize bushing, and regrinding would be a good way to go, but it's easy to imagine how expensive that could be to achieve a concentric bushing. I have to believe that you're going through all of this because the original bushing spun in the case and made a big hole. My concern would be if your left side main bearing hole is still in-line with the pinion side hole.

The bushing didn't spin in the case, without going into details, I cracked the case and a good welder inexperienced with old cases didn't know to drill a hole at the end of the crack before welding.
Needless to say, the welder followed the crack into the bearing housing before he stopped and called me.
An old timer fixed the case, but left the hole too large.
I made a busing with a 1.001" ID in it for each case. I set it with .001 interference on the OD.
A 1.00" piece of drill rod slipped right thru - The cases are straight with each other.
The drive side case has roughly .250 to .280 wall thickness in the housing area.
The weld looks very good, but I don't want to push my luck doing any more machining on this case.
Thanks
Sam

[exeric]

I can understand your hesitance to machine the bore, but .025" is as much as a mile. If the bore of your bearing race is still good, and within honing limits, I guess I would spend the bucks to get it hard chromed and ground. The alternative is get a good steel, and machine a new bushing in one operation that insures concentricity. I don't know beans about heat treating, or what tolerances you would have to abide by, so you would need to speak with the professionals on that. I am currently replacing a pinion bushing on my '48 Harley because it spun in the case (probably for a long time). The case has a cast in steel insert so it allows for oversized bearing races. Harley-Davidson recommenced an interference fit of .0025" and that is pretty tight for a 2.0025" diameter bushing into a 2.0" hole. This is something I am hesitant to mention, but there are advocates of anaerobic sealers like Locktite for bushings, and bearings. I'm of the belief that there is no substitute for a mechanical bond so I will generally do what it takes to make an all metal press fit. I hope I've been of some help; I would love to hear from others that have no doubt had these problems.

[samsmc1]

Eric
Heat the case on your Pan to 300 degrees and freeze the bearing housing and it should press in very easy - make sure the case is properly supported.
Back to the Indian - I have the capacity to make a new bearing housing if necessary. I do have a tool post grinder for my lathe but I don't know what material to use and how it should be heat treated.
Making a new bearing housing is an option I'm considering.
I'm leaning toward the hard chrome method of building up the bearing housing but I wanted to see if someone else has done this before I head that direction. I needed to see if there are any pitfalls I need to avoid.
I also have a '48 EL. Fortunately mine is in one complete piece unlike the '47 FL I bought a few years ago - it's mostly scattered except for the engine.
Sam

[exeric]

You sound like you know what side of the fence the bull is on, Sam I'd make the damn thing and have it heat treated. God knows, many manufacturers screwed that up, so how could you do worse. We have the benefit of Al Gore's internet so the information you need is out there regarding steel, and hardness. I'd love to know what way you go and how you make out.