Oil change

[jn1972]

I am changing the oil on my 1948 chief ,what convential oil should I use thanks jerry

[Bubbalowe]

It doesn't matter as long as it is motorcycle oil which has EP additives for roller bearings.

[Lipdog]

High-zinc conventional oils work well. I use 50W, either Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1, or Joe Gibbs Driven. You can order the VR1 from almost any auto parts store. For any of them, make sure you get the dino and not the synthetic.

[Sargehere]

You won't go wrong with Harley-Davidson 50 weight or 60 wt, depending on the state of your engine. Readily available at any Harley Boutique by the quart or the case, and designed for Air-cooled internal-combustion engines exactly like yours. Valvoline Aircraft 50, available at any private airport is the other that will never harm your engine.

[Lipdog]

Do folks use 50W for both the engine and the trans? I've heard some people use 50W for the trans, and others use 15-50 or 20-50. What's the consensus?

[D.A.Bagin]

I have only used straight weight oils for a long time in multiple motorcycles from fours to twins of both Indian and H-D. Oil is cheap, motors are not.

[kitabel]

"W" is not weight, it's winter: the oil viscosity when it's cold = 23° F.
Just a rumor: "The 1st number in the oil viscosity is the time it takes, in seconds, for cold oil to reach everywhere in the engine. 10W30 = 10 seconds. 50 weight = 50 seconds".

[Skirted]

Do folks use 50W for both the engine and the trans? I've heard some people use 50W for the trans, and others use 15-50 or 20-50. What's the consensus?

Primary and trans share oil unless it's been modified to separate them which some have been. 50 is too heavy for a combined primary and transmission. If primary and trans is separated, 30 can be used for the primary and 50 or even 80/90w would be fine in the transmission.

I run Penngrade1 50w in the engine which is another oil specifically designed with old flathead air cooled engines in mind. If I was riding regularly in 85 plus degree ambient temps I'd run 60w. I don't run a Kiwi tank filter but opt to change it every 500-600 miles.

HD Sportster oil in the shared primary/trans is used by many.

[Bubbalowe]

Because it's an oil thread. Lubricating oil has constantly improved the last century and reason they didn't use multi-vis in the 40's was because they didn't have it. All modern motorcycles use multi-vis and in absolutely no way does it harm a Chief engine. I've ran it and makes kick starting much easier. Asked a Penn Grade (Brad Penn) representative why they continue to market straight heavy oils if multi vis is better and he replied for old guys my age that refuse to change. In the eighties I did the 3 oil separation by sealing primary to trans, the light gear oil didn't help shifting and the trans fluid made no difference in clutch, pulled the seals out and now use cheap sae 30, drop oil every year or no more than a thousand miles. What brand oil to use is over debated, it doesn't matter.

[Lipdog]

Because it's an oil thread. Lubricating oil has constantly improved the last century and reason they didn't use multi-vis in the 40's was because they didn't have it. All modern motorcycles use multi-vis and in absolutely no way does it harm a Chief engine. I've ran it and makes kick starting much easier. Asked a Penn Grade (Brad Penn) representative why they continue to market straight heavy oils if multi vis is better and he replied for old guys my age that refuse to change. In the eighties I did the 3 oil separation by sealing primary to trans, the light gear oil didn't help shifting and the trans fluid made no difference in clutch, pulled the seals out and now use cheap sae 30, drop oil every year or no more than a thousand miles. What brand oil to use is over debated, it doesn't matter.

So what weight oils do you use in the engine, primary, and trans?

[Bubbalowe]

Was sumping after removing suction check ball like everyone recommends so drained the 20w 50 out and put a petcock on bottom of oil tank. Had a few quarts of sae 50 on shelf and put in. I'm walking on bilateral knee replacements so need all the help kicking I can get. The trans/ primary runs cheap sae 30, it's throw away oil with chips the crash box makes. Went full synth route on other motorcycles and while recognized as superior lubricant it does have the annoying side effect of seeping through paper gaskets. My opinion now is run your favorite flavor dino oil and change often.

[tomfiii]

Was sumping after removing suction check ball like everyone recommends so drained the 20w 50 out and put a petcock on bottom of oil tank. Had a few quarts of sae 50 on shelf and put in. I'm walking on bilateral knee replacements so need all the help kicking I can get. The trans/ primary runs cheap sae 30, it's throw away oil with chips the crash box makes. Went full synth route on other motorcycles and while recognized as superior lubricant it does have the annoying side effect of seeping through paper gaskets. My opinion now is run your favorite flavor dino oil and change often.

Removing check ball was only recommended for N.Y/police bikes for winter. Remember the oil in tank does not run that hot so multi grade entering motor may not shift to higher weight in a timely matter.

[Bubbalowe]

Removing check ball was only recommended for N.Y/police bikes for winter. Remember the oil in tank does not run that hot so multi grade entering motor may not shift to higher weight in a timely matter.

It's in Kiwi's parts book to remove the second ball in 48 oil pumps and others do recommend. It'll work either way, ball is pulled off seat by pump suction but it does sump quicker without. With the ball it takes all winter to sump versus a week without. Always been a believer in Smokey Yunick who claimed 90% of engine wear occurs upon startup when oil is not reaching all parts, makes the case for lighter base stock and molecule expanders that react with heat. New motorcycle riders with multi-vis hit the magic button and go right to 60 mph with no side effects from slow "shift to higher weight in timely manner". However, old guys like me raised on straight heavy oil never lifted a kickstand until the fins burned lines in your hand, then the oil was getting through, straight weight or multi vis.

[Qtaug]

I run Brad Penn Penn Grade SAE 50 in the engine and Joe Gibbs HD50 (SAE 15-50) in the primary and transmission.

[Bubbalowe]

Brad Penn is no more, called Penn Grade when DA Lubricants purchased from ARG in 2015. Still made at the old Kendall refinery in Bradford PA but suspect much of the crude is hauled in by rail. While true that PA crude is green in color there just isn't enough left and the analysis of PennGrade shows green dye. Nevertheless, it is excellent oil and never a mistake to use.