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Best Electronic Ignition for Chief? - Had it With Condensers

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  • #16
    Howdy chaps,

    If you search electronic ignition here or at Caimag, I covered this one before. Modern point applications assume much higher rpm, multiple points cams and assumption the points block will be running on mirror hard chromed finish on said points cam, therefore spring tensions are set high and rapid wear can be an issue.

    Hall sensor like as units as in Clyde Crouch’s are nearly bullet proof with minimal accommodation. Their longevity can be ensured for a fastidious owner only by fusing them. The primitive thermally activated HD sourced circuit breakers commonly seen at the battery ground strap connection to the back of the trans case flange on Indians are unacceptable for electronics, and I would even say for a now fragile 75 year old auto lite generator. If one isn’t inclined to fuse the whole system at 10-15 amps then at least install an inline 10 amp mini fuse under the full tank where the power source for the sensor exits the ignition wire tube.

    Nothing lasts forever, after 20 plus years in four different machines without a hint of problems when inquiring with Clyde at the donkey barn in March about whether I might just replace the more often used ones as a precaution he mentioned potential failure would be linked to heat. That is a valid concern with my Knuckle with its timer tucked in by the exhaust header but Chiefs, running theirs out in the wind, operate far cooler.
    Cheerio,
    Peter
    #6510
    1950 Vincent - A Red Rapide Experience

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    • #17
      For my use, I won’t be putting a ton of miles on the Chief so the points should be fine. I’ll keep a spare set and a condenser with me. Btw, one of my cars has an MSD electronic ignition and it has failed. But the points on my old Vette never left me stranded. The aftermarket electronic ignitions aren’t as reliable as the integrated system on a modern car.

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      • #18
        Here is what I ended up doing. Started with original Indian condenser as I like the curved mounting bracket that hugs the distributor and the cans are cad plated brass. Cut open can with Dremel and removed contents. After cutting open a modern NAPA Echlin and making the internal comparison, the original is superior in every way. Easy to see why new ones don't last likely succumbing to vibration as they are not packed tight and use very cheap materials.
        Drilled hole in the side of the can and stuck one lead of condenser through from inside out and soldered. Reused the original black cap and ran the other lead through it. Filled can with RTV, let dry and then crimped edges over to hold cap in place. Reused the original ring terminal because they are heaver gauge than modern terminals. Only time will tell on this but am optimistic.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Skirted; 09-06-2019, 08:54 AM.
        Jason Zerbini
        #21594
        Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
        Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

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        • #19
          Thanks for sharing the pictures, Jason. I’ll look forward to hearing how it works for you.


          Kevin

          .
          Kevin
          https://www.youtube.com/c/motodesoto

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          • #20
            Jason, that’s great, thanks for the pictures!

            Question: where’d you solder the lower wire (the one through the hole in the can)?
            I’ve kept my old condenser and I’d like to do the same!
            Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

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            • #21
              Harry
              Here you go. Just under the bracket. Fully hidden but really you can’t see the condenser much anyway.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Skirted; 09-06-2019, 10:06 PM.
              Jason Zerbini
              #21594
              Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
              Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

              Comment


              • #22
                Thumbs up! Thanks Jason!
                Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

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