Late Chief main shaft bearing

[Bubbalowe]

Last go round 15 years ago I used a thrust style ball bearing on clutch side of transmission designed to take the load of clutch release. These have wider outer race on load side and a quite a bit of play. Anyone have any opinions on these? Was considering pulling it out after pulling the primary cover off, forgot how much play these had.

[tfburke3]

I believe the thrust type clutch side bearings were stock from 34-53(what im familiar with),so they must have worked.
I think the standard type bearing began to be recommened as better by suppliers when the thrust bearings became nla.
I use them if I have them.
The play may seem more in your hand,but with mainshaft installed you wont see that.I like the end play at the min.005,and am usually more concerned by a loose clutch hub bushing.
The current trans Im building got a thrust bearing with a one piece brass ball retainer that I dug up in a refinery parts shelf that I matched up.
If the clutch hub doesnt wobble your good.
Tom

There are lots of counterfiet bearing out there even in oem packaging,so I would prefer a good used original bearing than new.

[Bubbalowe]

Thanks Tom for quick and reasonable response. Sometimes I forget why things got done but glad to hear this was correct. Will take top off transmission and remove clutch hub for re-bush, going after transmission bearing would be a huge setback for a slow worker like myself.

[Bills37]

I wouldn't hesitate to use a quality bearing distributor like Motion Industries to source your bearings. They can look up the old numbers and get the original specs and find a replacement. These people are in the power transmission business, they're not going to fool around with shady stuff.

[Bubbalowe]

Clutch basket does need re-bushed to take up some wobble. Here's the rest of story. Years ago after a fresh rebuild it made a knocking sound from left side and locked up but after it cooled was able to start and just ran it. Always suspected too tight end play at sprocket washer and found this was the case, drive shaft had friction welded itself to washer. Should of made a movie getting it off by welding a piece of pipe to washer and using a slide hammer to get free. All good now, had a proper thickness washer and checked multiple times and have .010 clearance behind sprocket.

[tfburke3]

.010 is good wjth the sprocket off,but make sure the flywwheel end play is more than that at .015-.030.The wheels should never touch the pinion side race.The thrust washer only keeps the pinion rollers in.
Soak the new cork in light oil and compress the cork and sprocket between some plates in a vise so its just proud of the sprocket face or install and tighten but you may have to wait a day or so for the cork to set,otherwise it will feel bound up.Im not sure if this is necessay with nos seals but the repros always seem a little thick.
Have fun
Tom

[Bubbalowe]

In retrospect I'm fortunate the sprocket thrust washer didn't overheat outer bearing race and will compress new cork seal as recommended to prevent washer from spinning. Recently purchased a HF 1000# lift when they were on sale and definitely puts the fun back in working on old bikes.