need suggestions how to repair crack in oil pump housing 34 chief

[cscott]

34 oil pump body cracked, open for repair suggestions, thankshttp://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bboard/images/attach/jpg.gif001.jpg

[tfburke3]

In my opinion its one of those parts that is not rare enough to justify the neccessary effort to repair.I wonder if it froze with water trapped.
They are on ebay frequently for about 200.
Otherwise,girnd out crack,weld,remachine threads and pump bore.
Tom

[T. Cotten]

Low-temp silver solder and a Henrob torch, Christopher!

Carl Olsen turned me on to www.riogrande.com, and 56% Ag wire solder #101705

With proper preparation and technique, it will wick into the crack.

Looks like it froze to me!

....Cotten

[tfburke3]

So you dont think the crack has changed the bore dimensions?
I like silver solder,but I think I would be wasting my time and certainly would not want to pay someone for such an attempt.
Good luck
Tom

[T. Cotten]

So you dont think the crack has changed the bore dimensions?
I like silver solder,but I think I would be wasting my time and certainly would not want to pay someone for such an attempt.
Good luck
Tom

Gosh, Tom!

You are afraid to fix something,

And I am afraid to throw anything away.

(Without at least trying ...)

...Cotten
PS: My '34 could use an over-sized plunger, and it didn't split.

[tfburke3]

Well if you took my post as im afraid,you misunderstand,and while I also dont throw much away,I am fussy about the parts that go into a motor build.
So a guy comes in your shop with this pump your advise is youll take it in the back and solder it up?Maybe also a rebore to press in new sleeve?Whats the estimate(if you were taking in new work)?
ps be needing a shebler float soon
Tom

[T. Cotten]

Well if you took my post as im afraid,you misunderstand,and while I also dont throw much away,I am fussy about the parts that go into a motor build.
So a guy comes in your shop with this pump your advise is youll take it in the back and solder it up?Maybe also a rebore to press in new sleeve?Whats the estimate(if you were taking in new work)?
ps be needing a shebler float soon
Tom

If it were your grandfather's pump, wouldn't you fix it, Tom?

I charged $20 any time I lit my torch, a buck a minute for any unusual grief, prep and de-prep, and a little more for materials when its comes by the troy ounce.
If I failed, I didn't charge.

Silver-solder won't chill the body like welding, so dressing the threads can be easier than you think, although it does take skill, just like the torchwork.
If I was lucky, I could have done it in an hour and a half ($90), stopping the clock for pre-heat on the Perfection, and cooling before it went back in the blast cabinet.
(Dress and prep as "nickel" would be another $10, plus another $5 to grind it flat.)

As I mentioned, over-sized plungers would revive even one tortured like Christopher's.
They were produced at one time for later models, and you just bored/honed the body.

Or so I'm told.

....Cotten
PS: Christopher!
Does the cap screw off and on easily?

[cscott]

yes the cap screws on and off no problem, what about braising ?

[T. Cotten]

yes the cap screws on and off no problem, what about braising ?

No need to abuse it, Christopher!

Its not like its a support member or something; Just don't want it to drool or suck air.

"Brazing" refers to many methods of flame welding, not just with brass.
But none wick into the crack.
Or leave the threads dress-able like a low-temp silver solder.

Sometimes its best to be gentle.

....Cotten

[tfburke3]

Hey Tom,Very reasonable rates ,but oversize plungers that used to available and just hone seems to minimize whats required to get a finished precision bore and plunger fit.New plungers are 300,no oversize,maybe someone makes them,if so how big?How much has the probable water rust and freeze distorted the bore or damaged the plunger.
I would not lite the torch before I looked at the bore.
Most likely a sleeve required.
If it was gramps pump id mount it on wall,if it was his bike I would get a good pump.
Have fun
Tom

[Kozy]

Low-temp silver solder and a Henrob torch, Christopher!

Carl Olsen turned me on to www.riogrande.com, and 56% Ag wire solder #101705

With proper preparation and technique, it will wick into the crack.

Looks like it froze to me!

....Cotten

Soldering requires absolute cleanliness. How do you go about cleaning the damaged area to ensure penetration of the molten solder?

[T. Cotten]

Soldering requires absolute cleanliness. How do you go about cleaning the damaged area to ensure penetration of the molten solder?

Painstakingly, Kozy!

I usually start with ALOX blasting (not beads), and then try to feed it an acid etch. 'Ruby Fluid' is a mild one.
Then maybe another blast, and 'Brakleen' if it doesn't smell right.

Fluxing (and 'masking' with Amway "Oven 'N' Grill" coating) must be just as attentive; I think my dried up borax is "Stay-Silv", slurried with rubbing alcohol and allowed to dry for inspection.
(Electroless nickel is the most fantastic flux for silver-solder! It can be a pain.)

Proper heat is always a trial.

Face it, we really might not want it all the way into the bore.
We just want it hygienic.

...Cotten

[Kozy]

Painstakingly, Kozy!

I usually start with ALOX blasting (not beads), and then try to feed it an acid etch. Ruby Fluid is a mild one.
Then maybe another blast,if it doesn't smell right.

Fluxing (and 'masking' with Amway "Oven 'N' Grill" coating) must be just as attentive; I think my dried up borax is "Stay-Silv", slurried with rubbing alcohol and allowed to dry for inspection.
(Electroless nickel is the most fantastic flux for silver-solder! It can be a pain.)

Proper heat is always a trial.

Face it, we really might not want it all the way into the bore.
We just want it hygienic.

...Cotten

Thanks for the info, I have experience with both Ruby and Stay Silv. I should have thought "tinning fluid".

[cscott]

any thoughts on j b weld?

[T. Cotten]

any thoughts on j b weld?

My "nickel" coating looks great on it, Christopher!

....Cotten