48 & later oil pump

[samsmc1]

The book says to use a lite coat of sealer on both the pressure and return surfaces of the pump.
I hate to get sealer anywhere near oil passages - is it really necessary since the surfaces are so clean and also you have an abundance of screws in a small area.
Also I'm not finding any info on the suggested clearance between the distributor drive shaft and it's bushing. Mine is loose, so I ordered a new bushing. Problem is the replacement is steel whereas the original is brass.
I'm afraid this will blow oil mist into the distributor if it's too loose. Any suggestions as to why Stark sent a steel bushing and what clearance I should strive for?
Thanks
Sam

[T. Cotten]

Sam!

I hoped someone with more recent experience would chime in..
But many 'modern' gaskets, such as from JAMES, have an effective sealer impregnated, and it is not visible.

Applying anything would defeat it.

A steel bushing is confusing.

....Cotten

[moldthread]

Hi Sam,
Keep in mind that when these were made there were only about 3 types of gasket cement available, all made by Permatex.
# 1 was a paste, came in a tube and was hardening
# 2 was a paste, also came in a tube but was non-hardening
# 3 was a liquid, came in a bottle with a brush, also non-hardening called Aviation-Form-A-Gasket

#3 is the stuff you want to use, apply a very thin coat on 1 surface around the outside portion of the surface and screw holes.
All you are trying to do is seal the mating surfaces without spacing them apart.