1929-31 Schebler Carburetors

[T. Cotten]

If all else fails, whatever works is the setting.

How many times do you want to pull your carb off and on for trial-and-error, Mick?
You could wear out a lot of gaskets getting it sweet. And that's only if you've got the patience.

How could a pro shop possibly charge all that time, to make a living?
(Local customers would burn you down.)

Hard to believe nobody has literature!

....Cotten
PS: "Works" is good enough, if its just to get sold perhaps.

[aumick10]

Tom, it is not like it is a +/- 1" adjustment.
You have more knowledge on these carbies than myself but it would seem to me that there is a couple of parameters that could be used to get in the ball park quickly.
Making a big assumption here, but if the bowl mating surface to the body is the same height on the different Scheblers from the era, the predominant dimension would be the height of the float pivot/pivot arm geometry/float buoyancy, and fuel used.
All things being equal, the bowl dimensions will only change the volume of fuel in the bowl.
The actual float level will depend on the inlet vacuum developed by the individual motors. As for works is good enough, it depends on how sensitive a motor is to carby settings. Some motors will run way out of tune, albeit not well. The more highly evolved a motor it is, the more sensitive it becomes to fuel settings.
I understand that the nature of your business is reconditioning carbies, you need to send back a functioning product, you can only build to spec. The actual final tuning must take place in a real world situation.
Cheers Tom

[T. Cotten]

For all carbs, Mick,...

There is only one correct float setting for that model of carb. (Assuming of course, the float actually floats!)

The level of fuel in the bowl is a tuning 'circuit' as described in the Armored School Handbook.

So to build 'to spec', we need to know the spec. Anything else is barnyard.

....Cotten

[aumick10]

I agree with what you say Tom, but in the absence of a spec, what do you do? You can't do nothing.
Are these a DLX series?

[T. Cotten]

I agree with what you say Tom, but in the absence of a spec, what do you do? You can't do nothing.
Are these a DLX series?

What I did, Mick,..

Was ask the forum!
Here, and at https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...-setting-specs

Bronze bowl DLXs have a height distance from the center of the float pivot to the top of the bowl of 7/16"
And that's their book spec for float level.
Late 'long' potmetal bowl DLXs (upper right in attachment) have a height distance from the center of the float pivot to the top of the bowl lid of 11/32",
and that matches literature as well.

But the early potmetal 'short' bowls (lower left) have a 3/8" height from pivot to top of bowl lid.

If anybody has the literature, they must be guarding it jealously.

....Cotten

[aumick10]

As you know Tom, it is the fuel level that affects the operation. The float is set to give a specific fuel level.
Do the bronze bowl and long tin top settings give the same fuel level, for the same venturi size?

[T. Cotten]

As you know Tom, it is the fuel level that affects the operation. The float is set to give a specific fuel level.
Do the bronze bowl and long tin top settings give the same fuel level, for the same venturi size?

I think the venturi is an extraneous variable, Mick!

After all, Linkerts (with the exception of the M53 series) shared the same setting no matter what venturi.

My notes are old and inscrutable, so I must set up the sight glass again for certainty.
(Unfortunately, I have little expendable R&D time handy...)

Just hoped somebody had it from the factory, and was nice enough to share with all.

....Cotten

[aumick10]

A quick search showed the lack of information available on line. maybe in a handbook in the library when it is available again.
Good luck.