1948 Indian Chief Questions

[kloller]

I am in the process of making my 48 road worthy so I can ride it and enjoy it some. Where can I get a service manual ?

The primary cover was leaking so I removed it to put on new gasket. Then started thinking I should go further.
Can I get the generator gear out to replace the bushing without having to take off the clutch and drive gear/chain ?

How does the clutch come out ? Just unbolt the spring plate ? Thinking I should inspect the clutch disc while I am in there. Bike shows to have 26K on it.

What are the recommended fluids and capacities.... Primary, Engine oil, tranny ?

What is the fix to keep the handle bars from falling down and hitting the instrument cover ?

Suggestion for cables wiring etc ? I bought some gaskets and other items from Greers.

Should I switch to a 12 volt system or leave it at 6 volt ?

Any help is appreciated. Want to get this bike road worthy now so I can enjoy it some. Lots more to do of course. She does run OK.

[tomfiii]

https://www.jerrygreersengineering.c...y=1948&m=Chief
Get manual and riders handbook,sorry gen.gear needs clutch removed.
Kiwi site has some info on it. http://www.kiwiindian.com/#!tech/c14zo

[pisten-bully]

I am in the process of making my 48 road worthy so I can ride it and enjoy it some. Where can I get a service manual?.

Hi, one of the better benefits of joining AMCA is the virtual library! You can find the service and rider's manuals in there to download at no charge to members. It's a good starting point!

[fillibuster]

Keep your fluids up, check bolts and nuts and linkages regularly, get it up on the center stand and roll underneath it, smell things, taste things, adjust rear chain, learn to eyeball rear tire alignment.
Warning: if you take your bike out of commission it might still be like that on the next sunny riding day. Left an oil spot somewhere?--blame it on a Harley.

[Skirted]

To access clutch discs you need to compress the pressure plate and remove the nuts. A special tool is available but you can flip your primary around and use it to compress plate. Good idea to put cardboard behind it to protect cover face from getting scuffed where it contacts plate. See pic. Same process when reinstalling

To pull the clutch hub/basket, it and engine sprocket, gen gear and chain all come off together. Clutch hub nut is LEFT HAND thread. Check the small spring for the chain tensioner guide pivot. It will probably be broke.

The primary and transmission oil is about 14-15oz assuming they haven't been separated. Fill slowly until it comes out level plug hole in side of primary. Engine is around 2 qt. 50wt

For the handlebars, other than tightening the big nut on the risers, not sure unless the rubber is shot inside the riser(s).

12 or 6 volt? Charging system is a good place to spend some time and money to insure its the best it can be. At the advice of others who logged 1000s of miles, I upgraded my 6 volt system to an electronic regulator from Gene Harper then switched to a Shorai Lithium Iron battery.
http://www.splitdorfreg.com/Autolite...n/autolite.htm
It is a huge improvement from the original 3 brush gen arrangement and mechanical regulator and allows switching to a premium sealed battery since the charging rate is precisely controlled at 7.2 volts max. Of course you have to make sure your gen is working properly to begin with. With this technology, I see no advantage to going 12 unless you will be running at night often and want more and/or brighter lights.

If you haven't had them off in awhile I'd pull the wheels and check everything especially the brakes. Basics - be sure to check/set timing and points by the book. Trace and visually inspect all wiring for tight connections, frayed insulation and/or potential shorts. Good idea to run a separate ground wire from battery to gen case.

[mike46chief]

The original 3 brush generator has a cutout instead of a regulator so it is either charging or it isn't. There's really not the consistent correct charge like a regulated system. The 3rd brush is used to adjust the output so if let's say you adjust it to a proper charge with the lights off and than ran with the lights on you'd run down the battery. That's why the electronic regulator from Gene that Skirted recommends is such a great improvement. The other way to go is the Cycle Electrics generator. It's bullet proof, regulated, and easy to install.

My '46 Chief is pretty original so I kept it 6-volt. I used Gene's regulator also. Works great and looks original. My '47 Chief is more of a rider so I went 12-volt and the lighting is definitely better at night even though I have extra electrical load because of the lights on the sidecar. You also get a little better spark with 12-volt which might give you slightly easier starting. With the Cycle Electrics I can run at night with the SC and the spots on and it just keeps right on charging. Remember if you switch to 12-volt aside from the generator you'll need a battery, coil, bulbs, and the headlight. Some will advise to put a ballast at the coil to cut the voltage down to 8 volts so as to not burn up the points. I didn't and so far so good.

I just put a new clutch in the '47 from Greer's and am very happy with it. A lot of guys like the King clutches also. Don't forget the bearing and check the pressure plate springs. Good luck.

http://www.kiwiindian.com/#!12-volt-/c24lq

[indian301]

I have owned my 1948 Chief for 25 years and 62,000 miles later I am still running 6 volts. Since I do very little night riding the generator is set up to run with the headlight off. In a pinch I can ride about 45 minutes with the headlight on before the bikes starts to buck(electronic ignition needs more voltage). I plan on installing one of Gene's regulators when I have an issue.

Dave