Tuning after first start up-'47 Chief

[Xtracho]

One is a Coker and the other is an Armstrong. Still have to get the tubes. Could not pass up the deal from Pisten-Bully. Thanks Harry!!

What kind of tires did you get Mark. Did you get new tubes also?

[Skirted]

Thanks to pisten-bully for a good deal on some tires.

What kind of tires did you get Mark. Did you get new tubes also?

[Xtracho]

Thanks Tom and everyone! Rain has made it hard to do anything the last few days. With 3 bikes in the garage, space for working in there is limited so I have to roll her out onto the driveway. May get a chance to get something done here this afternoon or tomorrow. I must admit, getting anxious to get to where I can take her for a short jaunt around the neighborhood. Thanks to pisten-bully for a good deal on some tires.

[Tom Lovejoy]

I would double check and make sure your gas caps are vented - not plugged up. Watching with interest good luck.

[Xtracho]

It would be this carburetor. Called a nozzle I suppose. Sorry I'm not up to speed on the common nomenclature or common names for these parts.

carb.JPG

[tomfiii]

What carb are you running that has a main jet.

[Xtracho]

Thanks Tom...will do. And I have a new main jet that was just delivered. So I'll pull the old one, check, clean, and replace if necessary. Will keep everyone updated.

[tfburke3]

With regards to testing between the carb/intake flange....starter fluid will take care of that test. And if 20 psi is overkill I'd rather do that than push only 10 psi thru and get a false idea of any leaks. And yes the air supply was constant & regulated throughout the leak test. The problem this morning was not float level, the kinks & twists in the copper fuel line was starving the engine. I took the copper POS fuel lines off and installed the rubber fuel line that I built. Until I get her running correctly that crap copper stuff stays off the bike. Bike is running, but only on the front cylinder. Wondering if that exhaust valve on the rear is stuck open again. I pulled the plug....soaking wet with gas. Wiped it off and connected it up. Spun the motor over and there is spark to the plug. She was running, albeit on one leg, with the choke fully open. When I attempted to close the choke the motor wanted to stall.

So, tomorrow I'll pull the rear head again and see about the exhaust valve. Once I get both cylinders kicking I'll get her running and put some starter fluid to the carb/intake joint to check for a leak there.

Keep the advice coming gents...I really appreciate it.

If you have good compression in the rear cylinder not likely its stuck,unless it is stuck closed,but that would have probably broke something by now.You can also just lift the valve cover and watch the valve go up and down.
Did you drop the main jet to clean and inspect?
Tom

[Xtracho]

With regards to testing between the carb/intake flange....starter fluid will take care of that test. And if 20 psi is overkill I'd rather do that than push only 10 psi thru and get a false idea of any leaks. And yes the air supply was constant & regulated throughout the leak test. The problem this morning was not float level, the kinks & twists in the copper fuel line was starving the engine. I took the copper POS fuel lines off and installed the rubber fuel line that I built. Until I get her running correctly that crap copper stuff stays off the bike. Bike is running, but only on the front cylinder. Wondering if that exhaust valve on the rear is stuck open again. I pulled the plug....soaking wet with gas. Wiped it off and connected it up. Spun the motor over and there is spark to the plug. She was running, albeit on one leg, with the choke fully open. When I attempted to close the choke the motor wanted to stall.

So, tomorrow I'll pull the rear head again and see about the exhaust valve. Once I get both cylinders kicking I'll get her running and put some starter fluid to the carb/intake joint to check for a leak there.

Keep the advice coming gents...I really appreciate it.

[T. Cotten]

To add to Tom's diagnostic,

The fuel level should be 5/8" with a dry 1/4" float setting.

But it still sounds like its sucking air to me.
20 psi is 5 psi of overkill, but I must ask: You used a constant, regulated air supply, right?

One interface that cannot be bubble-tested is between the carb and manifold.
The manifold should be arbitrarily ground flat, because they all need it.
The carb flange should be arbitrarily lathe-cut, because they all need it.
flangcut.jpg
One possible test for this interface is an un-lit propane torch, but the machine must be running first.

Good luck,

....Cotten

[tfburke3]

Morning All. Out early this morning to fire her up. She will run up to full RPM's for about 3-5 seconds then stall. I tried several different combinations of throttle/spark advance/choke position/hi-lo needle settings....all with pretty much the same results. Today I'll be pulling the fuel lines(again) and replacing one copper line from the tee to the intake side of the filter bowl. That one got pretty twisted up trying to get it to match up with the threaded nipple that goes to the filter bowl. Wonder if all those kinks may be causing fuel starvation? I will say that she did run the other day for an extended period of time but trying to roll the throttle caused her to want to stall. I did the intake leak test as recommended and found a small leak at one of the valve covers on the front cylinder. Fixed that (at least I saw no more bubbles.)

Anyhow, and I hate to be a pest, I am asking for your expertise on diagnosing the possible issues that may be causing her to run for just a few seconds then shut down.

I think I would check float operation.What I do is remove the float bowl and reconnect to the gas linet swung out away from carb,sitting same level as installed.Now you can see the float.Hold a piece of gasket paper firmly under the big hole in bottom and turn on gas and observe level,which yours may be to low.
This will also show fill rate to help diagnose clogged lines ,filter needle and seat etc.
Tom

[Xtracho]

Morning All. Out early this morning to fire her up. She will run up to full RPM's for about 3-5 seconds then stall. I tried several different combinations of throttle/spark advance/choke position/hi-lo needle settings....all with pretty much the same results. Today I'll be pulling the fuel lines(again) and replacing one copper line from the tee to the intake side of the filter bowl. That one got pretty twisted up trying to get it to match up with the threaded nipple that goes to the filter bowl. Wonder if all those kinks may be causing fuel starvation? I will say that she did run the other day for an extended period of time but trying to roll the throttle caused her to want to stall. I did the intake leak test as recommended and found a small leak at one of the valve covers on the front cylinder. Fixed that (at least I saw no more bubbles.)

Anyhow, and I hate to be a pest, I am asking for your expertise on diagnosing the possible issues that may be causing her to run for just a few seconds then shut down.

[Xtracho]

Thanks Harry...did you get my PM about the tires? Still cold here on the panhandle and did not get a chance to kick her over yesterday.

[pisten-bully]

JRight now she is sitting outside in the sun warming up. Cold here on the panhandle last night. Going to let her warm until this afternoon and try to fire her up again. Hopefully I'll see some progress in how she runs and be able to roll on the throttle without her wanting to stall out. We shall see.

Mark, you've likely already done this, but re-adjust your two needles before starting, just as the Indian Rider's Guide says, gently seat the needles by turning them in clockwise, then for the low speed needle turn it out counter-clockwise four turns, and for the high speed needle turn it out 1 1/2 turns. Those settings might turn out to be a little rich after all is said and done, but they are a good starting point.

[Xtracho]

Just completed the "leak test" on the bike this morning. Plugged the hole with a rubber plug and put 20 psi air through. After spraying soapy water on the intakes where they mount to the cylinders I found that there were no bubbles. Indicating that there were no leaks. There were, however, a few bubbles coming from one of the valve covers on the front cylinder. Tightened that up and no more bubbles. I also sprayed the head bolts and around the head gaskets that were replaced. No bubbles there.

When I replaced the gasket where the carb meets the intake I did not use gasket sealant. And I did not pay a lot of attention to the position of the throttle plate but did notice that it does open all the way when I roll throttle. The real pain for me in removing the carbs is pulling the fuel lines. I am actually thinking about just getting rid of the copper fuel lines and replacing them with rubber fuel lines for the time being. Much easier to work with. I have already had to rebuild those copper lines and solder them all back together. Not a big deal there, but fitting them back where they match up with the connections without screwing up the copper lines is a pain in the ass. I suppose I could just remove the lines from the fuel and reserve tanks and pull the carb as an entire assembly.

Right now she is sitting outside in the sun warming up. Cold here on the panhandle last night. Going to let her warm until this afternoon and try to fire her up again. Hopefully I'll see some progress in how she runs and be able to roll on the throttle without her wanting to stall out. We shall see.

I am grateful to all for your assistance and excellent advice. My learning curve is getting better day by day with your help.