Synthetic will work in these old engines?

[tomfiii]

OK....I think I got the gist of that post. If I just want to fire the engine up for the first time in years, will I be OK just going with a conventional oil? All I want to do at this point is get her running while sitting on the center stand. When it comes tome to take her out on the road I can consider going with more exotic or modern products. Does that sound like a plan? I suppose living here in Florida a heavier weight oil is called for. I am thinking just straight 50W in the primary, clutch, tranny and engine. Going to have to make a decision here in the next week or so.

Don't rev motor too much on center stand.

[David Uhl]

I've been using Aeroshell 100 or 120 depending on temperature in my chief for the last 30 years.
As long as its for sale I'm sticking to it.

[exeric]

I run Harley-Davidson 60 wt. in my Harleys, and did so in my '40 Chief. I live in Sarasota so I'm well acquainted with Florida's steamy weather. My only problem with H-D oil is the price. Grossly overpriced for what it is, but so are the 60 wts. from other refiners.

[Xtracho]

OK....I think I got the gist of that post. If I just want to fire the engine up for the first time in years, will I be OK just going with a conventional oil? All I want to do at this point is get her running while sitting on the center stand. When it comes tome to take her out on the road I can consider going with more exotic or modern products. Does that sound like a plan? I suppose living here in Florida a heavier weight oil is called for. I am thinking just straight 50W in the primary, clutch, tranny and engine. Going to have to make a decision here in the next week or so.

[PRG]

Howdy chaps,

Indian v-twins can benefit from exotic blends in their trans and primaries but less so in their motors as they run so "dirty". Unlike the pristine motor pictured these motors lubricate everything but the mains, rod big ends and cylinder bores by windage of oil aerated by the pumping action of the pistons. To increase velocity and break the natural surface tension oil droplets into an aerated mist these engines have a choke point at the base of the bores in the form baffles. These create extreme pressure differentials which leads to oil contamination from blow by on motors showing any kind of wear. Couple that with rich fuel mixtures contributing to carbon in that blow by, fuel drawn down the intake guides as well as exhaust carbon and one quickly negates one of the primary properties of modern lubricants; to act as a sponge to absorb and suspend contaminants for the oil filter to capture, the latter item few Chiefs have been retrofitted with. These oils are soon saturated and this grit is washed over bearing surfaces for which the drive side mains often show the results.

Unlike Fours where sheer is an issue with their bevels and rocker/cam arrangement, Chiefs have roller rockers the only real shear point is where the lifter pad swipes the pushrod. This area could not benefit from too much ZDDP. Therefore, think it'd focus on locating something with the most ZDDP content and change it more often and that can be found less exotic non synthetics.

[exeric]

I would imagine everyone knows this, but you shouldn't run oil additives with Teflon. As a motor builder told me, Teflon works too good. In motors that use ball, and roller bearings, the balls, and rollers can slide instead of roll. Teflon is great in motors with plain bearings but in a Henderson the steel clutch plates will not hold.

[Xtracho]

Interesting information from everyone. LOL...always love a good old "oil" thread. I do not foresee having to rebuild the engine as my Uncle was pretty meticulous about the engine. That, of course, could change. I am looking to try and fire the bike up in the next 8-10 days. This will be the first time in years, maybe decades, that the bike has run. I have several parts, mostly carb stuff, on the way from Jerry Greer's that should be here middle of next week. So, for right now, I need a good oil recommendation to ensure proper lubrication on start up and running for the first time in so long. I will not be riding the bike. Simply to start her up and let her run. Maybe I should have clarified that at the outset.

So, having said that. If I am correct, I need to not only add oil to the reservoir tank, but the primary, clutch and tranny as well?

And again, to all of you.....thanks a million on assisting me to conquer the learning curve on these wonderful old machines. I am grateful.

[sirhrmechanic]

You can definitely use synthetic. We love the stuff with a couple of caveats...

If you are thinking about putting it in a 'new' rebuilt engine... don't! Until you have it thoroughly broken in. It can hinder the break-in. On vehicles (like new Corvettes and BMW cars) the engines are designed to run on synthetic from day one. No break-in issues. I run synthetic in all my vehicles, but only after 10K miles (for modern vehicles) and shorter periods (1-2K miles) for antiques. This is my practice, not a hard/fast rule. But with the old engines, don't use for startup of a new rebuild.

Also, synthetic has much better 'seeking' properties than conventional motor oil. So if something leaked a little bit with regular oil, it will leak a lot more with synthetic. This includes porous castings. But can also be case joints, cork gaskets, etc.

Last, for vehicles left to sit for long periods, synthetic does not tend to be as 'persistent' in sticking on metal surfaces as regular oil. It will run down into the sump where conventional oil will stay on parts in a thin film and provide better moisture protection. Vehicles parked for long periods can be prone to internal rusting with synthetic. I have not seen this on engines that were parked over a winter, for example. But in cases where they were parked for a couple of years with synthetic.

But by all means, use it in old engines!

FYI, here is a picture of one of our engines. It has covered 40K miles since rebuild. Car owned by a retired oil company exec who changed his oil every 2K miles and every fall, regardless of mileage covered. He used synthetic after the first 5,000 miles. Swore by it. When we dropped his inspection cover, we could see why he was enthusiastic! Oh if they all looked like that....





Cheers,

Sirhr

[phillie]

I use Brad Penn 2050 in my Engine. Mobil 1 Synthetic 90wt in my primary and Redline Blue in my Transmission. The ol Indian loves them.

[tomfiii]

I can not tell the difference between Redline oil for trans clutch primairy use and non-detergent 30 weight as to noise or shifting or clutch usage.

[Xtracho]

A friend out in CA. runs Amsoil in his '48 Chief. I see that Amsoil does offer a high zinc motor oil. Drained the oil out of the primary, tranny, and clutch yesterday and got about a quart. I am sure that oil has been sitting there for at least 20 years.

Looking to try and fire her up in the next couple of weeks (as soon as the carb float and other small parts come in and are installed).

Yeah I know....another oil thread. But wanted to get everyone's feedback on which oil you prefer.

Thanks!