Fuel tank solutions

[Xtracho]

Well pretty much fully into getting the '47 Chief up and running. Wanted to ask what you guys recommend for cleaning and treating the rust in the fuel tank. I tried Apple Cider Vinegar along with aquarium gravel. Really did not produce the results I was looking for. The oil tank was easy. Just used some non-solvent degreaser and the gravel and it is pretty clean.

The one thing I do not want to do is "cream" the fuel tank. Have never had satisfactory results with that stuff. It was in the tank of my Goldwing when I got it and the stuff was pealing away from the tank walls.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. I would like to avoid the harsh stuff like Ospho and such. But if it's the only alternative I can do that.

Thanks!

[sirhrmechanic]

Back when I was still a starving just-out-of-college enthusiast... I cleaned out a vintage sportster tank by filling it with a slurry of sand, gravel and water (after plugging off all the openings well)... then wrapped it in some sleeping bags tied off with bunjee cords and stuck it in the dryer at my apartment complex. $3.75 worth of quarters later, the tank was remarkably clean.

Recommend NOT trying this at home. Wives and better half's do not appreciate the utility of household appliances as shop tools (ie using the oven to fit valve guides or cleaning cylinders in the dishwasher... never ends well -- though works great.)

However, almost any laundromat will have a dryer that you can stuff with enough stuff to tumble your tank clean.

If this is not an option... rental cement mixer will work to agitate your tank(s) nicely. (Again, wrap in sleeping bags or tarps). And noone cares what you put in a rental mini cement mixer.

Ah the good old days. There were advantages to apartment living.

I restored my first Sportster... on the balcony of my second floor apartment in Morrisville, NC. It faced woods, so I just stapled up plastic and it was a great workshop. We carried the bike down the stairs when it was done. Though the initial start (to torque the cylinder heads) was a bit dicey. I did it at 3 in the afternoon when I figured not many people were home. Worked!

Cheers,

Sirhr

[MJW]

And I got frowned upon for pushing my chopper into my ground level hotel room...That's why they don't like bikers! (I was told) Oh well, I grew up eventually

[Shaky Jake]

I like Evaporust for cleaning the rust out of gas tanks. I get it at a local auto parts store, it comes in gallon jugs. Unless there's some reason for further treatment, I'd leave it at that, with no internal coating. I had one tank that had some seepage at the seams and I didn't want to repaint it, so I coated the inside with Caswell, and that seemed to work OK.

Kevin

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[PRG]

Howdy sir,

Have done many sets with short galvanized (not aluminum as they weigh less) roofing nails and lacquer thinner. If worried about original/old repaint and or ability to mask off enough to prevent thinner contacting paint use mineral spirits. I shake by hand and have also used the dryer with towels for more serious projects. When done, flush profusely with soapy water, rinse and spray insides with WD40 if tanks not to see immediate use. This will take care of all but superficial rust and full of fuel with your better storage than the previous owner(s) will mean no further surface preps required. Have forgone any kind of coating these days except for what's mentioned below.

In the interest of engine life. One thing you want to verify is that there is absolutely no equalization between your oil and gas. Original soldered tanks have reach a very delicate state by this stage. The yield point is the wall seam at/near the oil tank floor at the corner to the upper left when viewing the inside with the tank perpendicular to your body. Any tension applied by the oil lines at the bottom plate if not in perfect alignment in conjunction with vibration over the years will cause this seam to part. In severe cases the wall may split, if that the case it must be soldered which can be done by the very skilled with torch heated irons. After cleaning both sides install petcock, full with gas and observe floor of oil tank.

If the seam has part one can perform a fix - that some would regard as heresy - by using a bead of JB weld on a perfectly clean surface. The latter will now require profuse acetone flushing beforehand but, hey, for the trouble that OP or early repaint will remain intact and you'll be motoring happily 18 years from now just as I have from this operation performed that long ago.

[exeric]

I've used the dryer process with great results and I think I got that tip from you Peter. The most important step when using the clothes dryer is to make sure your wife will not be home for awhile.

[sirhrmechanic]

Forgot to mention that Naval Jelly does a good job with rust. Watch it with paint, though.

Not sure if it has a bad 'relationship' with solder. So beware.

I can second JB Weld's capability when it comes to sealing fuel. It may seem like heresy, but JB weld's 'fancy' name is anaerobic adhesive/sealer. Stated that way, it's all scientific and stuff. I've repaired (temporarily) float bowls with JB Weld. The temporary repairs have lasted for years.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[Knotthed]

Similar to Shakey Jakes Evaporust there is a product available at Menards called Metal Rescue.

I believe these are both commercial "Chelation" agents.

Have not used it in a gas tank, but it really cleaned up a stuck old monkey wrench in my test.

Also, http://rusteco.com/ as seen here in a multi part video http://youtu.be/nvAVl-dwt94

I like the idea of the stuff at Menards, it's readily available.....

[Xtracho]

Thanks everyone...all good advice. Picked up a gallon of Evap-o-Rust this morning. It looks like it did the job pretty good. And I like the fact that you can use it over and over until its effectiveness is depleted. Seemed like the easiest starting point since I could basically just buy it, pour it in the tanks, and let it sit.

Thanks again!