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  • Thrust Washer Pins

    I am working on a '48 Chief bottom end that I have and setting up the flywheel thrust washers for the correct clearance. I found that one of the locator pins seems to be broken off below the surface. How do I handle that? I have some new pins but how to handle this broken off one. I am thinking that these pins may be hardened, a carbide drill bit? Try to get the one that is there out and drill 2 new holes for new pins? It looks like the last guy center punched around the washer to tighten it up but I don't know how well that will hold it in place. Any suggestions?
    Last edited by Inchief; 05-25-2014, 06:38 PM.

  • #2
    Rotate the washer and drill for the new pin in a different location.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by harleytoprock View Post
      Rotate the washer and drill for the new pin in a different location.
      I've done this, As Cho an old Korean mechanic I used to work with would say. "Look good, last long time"

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      • #4
        I will give this a shot, thanks for the reply.

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        • #5
          I use thicker pins, as do S&S and T&O. I always saved the rollers from inside U-joints and used them with about -.002" number drills. THen a slight grind on the TW to open it or adjust for not perfect 180. I have used 1/8"-.125" pins and 3/16"- .093 pins.

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          • #6
            I've heard that some use "c" shaped roll/spring pins, instead of solid pins.

            I have the same problem and will be using the roll/spring pins. They were available from my local ACE hardware store. Longer than needed, but I will trim them down with a die grinder/dremel.

            Cotten, offers an alternative approach here http://virtualindian.org/2techtw.htm
            _____________________________________________
            D.J. Knott
            AMCA #10930

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            • #7
              Thanks for the reply. I had ordered 2 of the replacement pins, I thought I needed one, but found that 2 other pins were loose. Actually they were broken below the surface of the flywheel and when I grabbed them with a vise grip the top portion came out. I ordered 3/32 x 3/8" alloy steel dowel pins from McMaster Carr. Got a bag of 100 for under $10.00. The roll pin idea sounds good and seems like they would be nice and tight when installed. I have not drilled new holes yet and may have to order a shorter drill bit. I am concerned about the bit I have walking around when drilling the holes and or breaking. I have 4 pins that need installed and at least one extra drill would be nice to have.

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              • #8
                Jimmy, with dowel pins; you should drill undersize, and ream the hole for a press fit. D.J.'s suggestion of using a roll/spring pin is good advice as you can drill on size, and the pin will compress to fit tightly in the hole. Of course you should drill the wheels with a drill press so you know the hole is perpendicular to the surface.
                Eric Smith
                AMCA #886

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                • #9
                  Eric,

                  Thanks for responding, it's good to hear a vote of confidence on the roll/spring pins. Good advice on the drilling perpendicular also.

                  A comment above has me wondering, is there any benefit to gonig to a larger size pin than the 3/32"? I haven't drilled mine yet either, due to lack of time but I am on the cusp of doing so. Once I have the pins fixed, I will be ready to start assembly of the crank.

                  Is there a recommended starting thickness for the thrust washers? I am guessing that it might have to go together and come apart and back together to get tolerancing correct. Any suggestions to limit the amount of goofing around is appreciated.

                  Sorry for hijacking the thread.
                  _____________________________________________
                  D.J. Knott
                  AMCA #10930

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    No problem with hijacking the thread, the more info the better on this stuff. I just ordered roll pins and shorter drill bits to drill the flywheels. Yes got the Drill Press ready. I have an assortment of thrust washers from the last bottom end I did years ago and bought a few more before I found the others so should be in good shape there. I have a friend that has a surface grinder that will grind any thicker washers thinner for me if needed. Probably do it this weekend. Don't know the starting thickness for thrust washers but from the last time I did this. I put it together measured it and did some math with the thickness of washers I had. Added or subtracted and put in the proper size washers and pretty much had it. Maybe was just lucky on that one, see how this one goes.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Knotthed View Post
                      Eric,

                      Thanks for responding, it's good to hear a vote of confidence on the roll/spring pins. Good advice on the drilling perpendicular also.

                      A comment above has me wondering, is there any benefit to gonig to a larger size pin than the 3/32"? I haven't drilled mine yet either, due to lack of time but I am on the cusp of doing so. Once I have the pins fixed, I will be ready to start assembly of the crank.

                      Is there a recommended starting thickness for the thrust washers? I am guessing that it might have to go together and come apart and back together to get tolerancing correct. Any suggestions to limit the amount of goofing around is appreciated.

                      Sorry for hijacking the thread.
                      Looking at a set of S&S 80" Chief wheels with larger than usual pins, it appeared that half the pin should be shaved off to clear the rollers. Seemed safer to grind them flush and install new pins

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                      • #12
                        Why? The S&S pins are forever and you can open the TW slots with a cut-off wheel.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by cdf6333 View Post
                          Why? The S&S pins are forever and you can open the TW slots with a cut-off wheel.
                          That is not what I was looking at. I'll confirm tomorrow whether the pins are in the path of the rollers.

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                          • #14
                            You can just grind them down if they're too tall. A dremal tool will knock 'em down fast. I love them "fat ones".

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                            • #15
                              Any builders want to chime in on starting washer thickness?

                              Appears Indian had two standard thickness, .057 & .062

                              Today we have available;
                              Crankpin washers from .047-.082
                              Shaft washers from .047-.095

                              The set of flywheels that i picked up for my engine had 4 .062" washers in them. 1 of them is bad - shows alot of wear. The others are fine with the exception of some pitting. What are the thoughts on the pitting (no big deal or would not put them in a fresh rebuild)?

                              These z wheels are not original to my cases - would you start out with Indian standard .057/.062 then go from there?

                              I also assume the flywheels need to be fully trued to get all of the requried measurements for adjustment to a different size washer?

                              Pins are in. I noticed the washer is tight on one side - due to the pin fit in the washer groove. I imagine this could cause some truing issues if not free floating before truing?

                              20140610_194801small.jpg
                              Last edited by Knotthed; 06-11-2014, 03:09 PM.
                              _____________________________________________
                              D.J. Knott
                              AMCA #10930

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