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  • transmission grinding

    My 45 chief now grinds going into first. Was ok before I took off the outer primary for inspection. I did take it apart again to inspect the clutch after it started grinding. I am adjusting the clutch per the manuel. What else, syncros like a car tranny?

  • #2
    How high is the idle speed? They all will grind a bit if the engine is turning too fast. As slow as possible, retard the spark and see.

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    • #3
      It is idling slow, I know of the slight grinding when it is correct. Right now, I am concerned I will damage the trans. Are there syncros in this trans? Or does it have to be because the clutch isn't disengaging properly?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by fizz View Post
        It is idling slow, I know of the slight grinding when it is correct. Right now, I am concerned I will damage the trans. Are there syncros in this trans? Or does it have to be because the clutch isn't disengaging properly?
        No constant mesh or synchromesh tranny. Just primitive sliding gear direct engagement!

        Did you by chance put heavier oil in the primary/trans after you had the cover off? Too heavy of oil will tend to limit disengagement.
        Jason Zerbini
        #21594
        Near Pittsburgh PA (Farm Country)
        Allegheny Mountain Chapter http://amcaamc.com/

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Skirted View Post
          No constant mesh or synchromesh tranny. Just primitive sliding gear direct engagement!

          Did you by chance put heavier oil in the primary/trans after you had the cover off? Too heavy of oil will tend to limit disengagement.
          Another question with the same concern (clutch drag): does the dis-engaged clutch try to pull you away when you put it into gear?

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          • #6
            very slightly. when I first started working on this problem I changed primary oil, using 50 wt engine oil. Also inspected the clutch plates and found one with an edge broken off. Replaced it with a new one, did not replace all because they appeared to be original and in good shape. It had one extra fiber clutch plate installed when I took it apart, put it back together per manuel. The thicker clutch disc was there. They are in the correct order. It does seem, however, that it takes more clutch movement to disengage the clutch than before. Have tried adjusting clutch to slippage and backing off still same problem. But it is obvious though that the [roblem is clutch disengagement and I need to pull it down, that extra disc must have been there for a reason.

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            • #7
              sounds to me like you need to re set the clutch worm. I replaced my clutch pack with the Kiwi discs and it made a world of difference. In the Kiwi catalog Mike gives you the order the pack and discs should go into the basket as well.
              Last edited by phillie; 02-13-2014, 11:28 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by phillie View Post
                sounds to me like you need to re set the clutch worm. I replaced my clutch pack with the Kiwi discs and it made a world of difference. In the Kiwi catalog Mike gives you the order the pack and discs should go into the basket as well.
                good idea, I am taking it apart anyway

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                • #9
                  Thanks phillie, the kiwi clutch reference led me to Kiwi tech site, which led me to why the extra clutch plate was in there.

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                  • #10
                    glad I could help! Those discs are awesome clutch feels way better than the stockers. I know a lot of guys run the King clutch pack but I have never ridden a bike with them so I can't give feedback on a comparison.

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                    • #11
                      update: It was the spacing between the 2 parts of the pressure plate as indicated on the Kiwi tech article. Had to add an extra steel. Also installed the Kiwi discs and synthetic oil. Works perfect.

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