Oil Leak - Sealing the Clutch Release Worm?

[Skirted]

I have a small drip (while in operation) coming from the clutch release worm shaft. The knurled cap ring has what appears to be an integrated lip seal in it. This fits snug over the collar also pictured but looks pretty old and well worn. Not sure if the oil is coming from the OD of the collar bushing or between the OD of release worm and ID if collar as there does not appear to be any provision for a seal in that area.

New knurled rings from Greer do not have a seal like pictured. Just an oring that fits over the worm shaft; however my collar is not machined for an oring and if I put one in, it would just smash flat which of course doesn't seem desireable.

So questions are:
1. Is my knurled cap ring seal a home-grown invention from a previous owner or were they originally like that?
2. Whats the best method to seal the worm OD and collar OD?

Posted pic of the worm as well in case someone sees something amiss.

Thanks

[pisten-bully]

So questions are:
1. Is my knurled cap ring seal a home-grown invention from a previous owner or were they originally like that?
2. Whats the best method to seal the worm OD and collar OD?

I've not seen a lip seal installed in the cap before like yours. It seems like the seal would cover too may threads inside the cap and prevent the cap from going on far enough? Regardless, you could always pop out the worn seal, get the numbers off it and replace it, OR try the o-ring set-up with your cap as-is... I don't think the o-ring will flatten too much as you thread the cap further onto the worm threads. I would, however, love to hear if there indeed was a knurled cap set-up incorporating a lipped seal!

[Skirted]

I was reviewing the manual and found this short note

"Clutch Worm Oil Seal" "An oil seal is used at the clutch release worm nut to prevent oil leakage. The seal is placed in the knurled cap on the worm nut"

Based on this it seems the seal is supposed to be there and it seems a standard oring is used to replace it. I was afraid to dig the original out for fear of damaging it before I had a replacement but I was able to remove it carefully. I was confused by Greers site stating the oring was .750" OD which didn't make sense based on measurements of the mating parts and that size just wouldn't fit. I thought maybe an oring was used around the worm shaft itself but apparently not.

I found a 1-3/8" OD X 1/8" cross section oring fits inside the knurled ring and when tightened squeezes out against the collar so hopefully thats all there is to it.

[Tobydog61]

I'd like to dig this old thread up again and ask for additional guidance on a leak on the '53 Chief around the clutch worm. It is the only place the bike leaks and it only leaks when being ridden. When it sits, I get very little but when ridden it leaks enough to spray the front of the fender and the tool box. Should I just try replacing the O ring under the knurled nut or is there more to it?

Thx

Jeff

[Tobydog61]

Just watched the Kiwi video and I see now how he does I, Yamabond on the worm seal ring. I'm going to try that with a new O ring. The Kiwi site is a great resource for us newbies.

[pisten-bully]

Just verify that the drain hole in the clutch worm nut, pressed into the primary cover, is in the correct location (down at the bottom) and fully pressed into the case.

Here's a look at the way I found mine, drain hole up and not fully pressed into the case:

[Green Indian]

Here's a link to the Kiwi videos which are a big help they are a trans rebuild and clutch replacement videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HK06bLXYDE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_RJoLRAYRs