New Cylinders Revisited

[Jack K]

A little over 5 years ago a thread was started here asking if anyone had used the new reproduction cylinders that were then advertised for around $500 with pistons, rings, and gaskets. At that time, no one with direct knowledge spoke up. There seemed to be agreement that it would take more time for this new product to prove its worth.

As most of you have probably seen, these can still be bought on ebay for under $600 and the seller claims to have sold "over a 100" sets with no problems.

So, five years hence, can anyone testify about the quality and usability of these or any other repop cylinders for Chiefs? Do they not only fit as they should but does the engine perform as it should? That is, are the ports properly sized, correct deck height, enough room to avoid valve spring coil bind?

[Knotthed]

I would also be interested in hearing comments and any information on this.

[fabercycle]

Jack K,

You claim that no one with direct knowledge spoke up.......you better read the thread again. I gave all the specs at the end of the 3 page thread, and that was the end of it.

At that time I already had several motors out there with more than one season of trouble free riding., That was 2006.

[Knotthed]

Tom,

I think he was looking for updated information after 5 years of service. I know that is at least what I was interested in.

Can you confirm what I have gleaned from talking to people and seeing some at swap meets?

1) Ports are rough from casting process and will need cleaned up.
2) Will need to check and possibly correct intake nipples
3) head bolt alignment issues?
4) Seem to be very good material, hardly showing any wear when taking apart after use - still showing cross-hatching from honing.
5) will need to check for correct valve spring tension and other associated valve train measurements

Seem to be a good value for the money, but they are not a bolt and go product?

Thanks in advance for updated info.

[indianut]

I have used one set. I got them bare with only guides installed. I was told they were Cherry-Picked from the pile for GOOD nipples. 2 or 3 headbolt holes were Slightly off. I removed the guides and used a known good set. The guide holes were on the Loose side and had to be dealt with. I used my own valves. They seemed to Bore and Hone fine. It was 2 years ago, and I am thinking there was one or two other minor things and if I recall it took a few hours of messing with them to get them good. This bike probably only has about 4-5000 miles on it, but there have been no issues. I would PROBABLY use them again on my own stuff, but if the GOOD ones are less than about 3-400 more it would be a toss up for a Customer!

[Edd]

Here is a list if "problems" that need to be checked before you install the India cylinders. I have a couple sets with no problems AFTER everything was checked. This was posted on the Virtual Indian list a couple years ago.
>
> Below are some of the problems encountered with four sets of the
new
> cylinders that were installed.
>
> These are all easy to fix if you know about them ahead of time and
does not
> take that long to make the adjustments.
>
> The bad part is when you come upon each one and have to remove
material from
> the fins for clearence after you installed the jugs.
>
> 1. The top two fins on the front cylinder needs to be ground between
the intake
> manifold for clearence for the nuts
> 2. Trim the rear cylinder fins above the shifter tower,
> 3. Trim both cylinders in the area where the carb.bowl is.
> 4. Valve guides are to large for the valve covers Remove guides
and turn
> down to fit.
> 5. Grind exhaust port so the valve covers will fit.
> 6. Intake nipples are too large for the nuts. Can usually be
fitted with
> valve grinding compound. Be easy doing this so you will not bind
the nut and
> shear the pin on the nipple.
> 8. Head bolt holes on some cylinders are not all in the correct
position and
> will bind on the holes in the head. Drill out cylinder head holes
to next
> size.
> 9. Check head bolt thread depth in the cylinders. Some have
bottomed out
> and ruined the threads on the bolts and upon removal it took some
threads out
> of the cylinder.
>
> Ed

[Jack K]

Jack K,

You claim that no one with direct knowledge spoke up.......you better read the thread again. I gave all the specs at the end of the 3 page thread, and that was the end of it.

At that time I already had several motors out there with more than one season of trouble free riding., That was 2006.

I stand corrected. I should have said there was a report of one set of cylinders installed that at that time that had been in service for one month. My intent was to see if there had been other sets installed since that time and what difficulties, if any, were encountered.

For those who offered their experiences, I thank you. I have been struggling with whether to continue trying to squeeze one more top-end overhaul out of my old cylinders or give up on them. Between the two engines I'm trying to keep running the front cylinders were sleeved long ago and are now out to .030 and .040 over, a crack across from intake seat to intake nipple repaired, an ear of the base flange repaired after a stud pulled loose from the crankcase and a few other maladies. From the outside they look great but on the inside they are getting very tired.

These new cylinders maybe the answer for those who have a very well equiped shop but things like mislocated bolt holes and loose or leaking nipples are problematic if you don't have access to machine tools. I lost access a couple years ago when a life long friend sold his automotive machine shop business and became a gentleman farmer.

I know my own trials using old cylinders are of little are no importance to anyone else
but I figured I could get the membership's help by relating their trails and troubles with the new ones. I had heard some very bad stories about aftermarket cylinders. Strictly hearsay, not from the people actually using them. One story went as follows.

Head bolt holes slightly off so the head bolt washer OD ground down.
Deck height about 1/16th to tall,,, Ground the bottom of the base flange
Deck height corrected but now has valve spring coil bind,,, Replaced Bonneville cams and followers with standard stuff.
After breakin, the motor would not make good power,,, Attempted to enlarge noticably small ports,,, ground thru to daylight.
Discarded new cylinders in faver of rebuilt EOM cylinders.

Scared me so I wanted to hear from some of ya'll. Again, thanks for your input.