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Tech Cycle Starter for 1967-80 sportsters, a review

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  • Tech Cycle Starter for 1967-80 sportsters, a review

    It’s not an exaggeration to say Sportster Knee is a real concern on stock bikes, let alone strokers. While you can totally mitigate sportster knee with proper biomechanics, it’s still no fun if a pedal lets loose whilst you are kicking.

    Well, my 86” stroker redefines what it means to kick a sportster. It’s a 4-13/16 and 10:1, so it takes a boot. So much boot, the bike would constantly kill the bendix starter clutch, rendering the electric starter useless. When the bendix was alive, the oem prestolite barely turned it over. An all balls 1.4kw starter barely did better. So, I’d have to be in the right mood to kick this bike to life even though it’s a one or two kick starter. It sat too much.

    I decided to solve the problem by installing a Tech Cycle starter. In short, Tech Cycle takes a 1.4kw nippon dense gear reduction starter as used on many post 1988 Harley’s and adds a custom plate carrying a self contained Jack Shaft. This system eliminates the starter, solenoid, starter housing, and all the bits inside. It’s truly bolt off the starter housing, retrieve the copper thrust washer, and bolt in. . .but not quite.

    When you remove the original parts, you also lose the central mount connecting the battery tray and oil tank, via iso mounts, to the engine cases. I wanted to retain a stock look as this bike is my Saturday night special. Not even close to stock, but you don’t notice that at first. Second challenge is that the mount itself is drilled clean through to the transmission case. You must plug the holes, but you can’t have the outer bolt more proud than a standard head thickness or it fouls the connector for the internal solenoid switch. Then, the battery tray fouls the solenoid feed wire and the starter fouls just a bare thickness at the cylinder fins and the sprocket cover.

    Two seconds with a die grinder solved the interference. A rectangular cut in the battery tray solved the solenoid wire fouling. Reducing two 3/8-16 bolts to 1/2” long and a touch of sealant solved the mount plug problem. The last thing was how to remount the oil tank and battery tray. I transferred an iso mount to the right side frame rail carrier, giving me two, not one in that location. I then drilled a 1/4” hole on center to align with that iso mount. Now I had a good mount there. I had to reverse the bolt so the regulator mounted flush. I then bent a z shaped piece of 316 stainless and twisted the end 90 degrees. This let me tie the new bracket directly to the rear motor mount. The other end secures the oil tank tab. The clearance is tight. The battery tray retains the three bolt to the rear of the oil tank. I use a smaller than stock 240cca battery, so no weight worries.

    All done, I added a starter relay. Rolled the bike out, flipped on the enrichener, and it instantly leaped to life. I could barely contain my excitement. I started and stopped the bike a half dozen times, something previously impossible. Woo hoo. Went on a 15 mile ride and shut down a bunch of times. Zero issue instantly starting. And that’s on a small battery.

    Suddenly I have a very fun 86” bike that is as easy to start as a modern bike. Sunset rides just got FUN.

    I can’t recommend this one enough. It totally solved my challenge.

    The one photo has numbers:
    1) clearance to cylinder fin
    2) previous cut out for removing the pivot screw
    3) rectangular cut out to clear solenoid feed wire
    4) z shaped bracket connecting rear motor mount to oil tank lower tab
    5) trigger wire for solenoid which sits 1/8” above the plugged mount hole
    6) new upper iso mount hole on battery tray

    Tech Cycle is old fashioned. You call to order. Starter was $485, plus $25 shipping. It arrived in three days. Totally happy.
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  • #2
    Im going on 70 and I'm pretty sure I'm still feeling the pain of
    Sporster knee.

    Comment


    • #3
      Flash forward several weeks and I'm still over the moon with this starter. I've ridden the 86" stroker more in the last few weeks than in the previous two years because it is so easy to start. There's something so darn satisfying about not having to go through a ritual to start the bike. Just pull the enrichener on; press button, and enjoy.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by rudy View Post
        Im going on 70 and I'm pretty sure I'm still feeling the pain of
        Sporster knee.
        I'm only posting this for posterity -- I do not get into "how to kick" discussions.

        Longstory short; I've always had big inch bikes and hard to start bikes - from 500 singles bored out to be 600s to 90" strokers.

        I've also never been a straddle kicker or seat kicker. I've tried both over the years and found the number one way to hurt myself is straddle kicking - followed by seat kicking.

        Instead, I've always stood to the side of a bike and kicked. This was especially handy on bikes with left side kick pedals. I actually bend or adjust side stands on Ironheads so my lean angle is 10 degrees or less on the side stand. An upright bike is easier to start from the side.

        Years later I learned what I was doing is actually the ONLY consistent way to prevent sportster knee.

        Sportster knee is caused by the pedal/kicker suddenly coming loose. Your leg straightens from the lack of resistance and if your hip is leading or trailing your knee, biomechanics results in your knee instantly hyper extending. Straddle kickers who give it their all are most at risk. Guys who drop off the seat are less likely to have it happen, but it is still a strong chance because they have limited control of their body when falling off a seat to kick.

        When you side kick; your body weight gets the pedal moving and the actual "kick" is very short and radial during the last bit of travel - not straight. This means that your hip and knee stay in line with the axis of the pedal as YOU rotate around it. With straddle kicking - your body stays stationary while the pedal moves in an arc.

        As a result, even if you break the pedal clean off (yes, I"ve done it) your leg won't hyper extend when you side kick because your body weight and your foot are traveling together. You'll just slam your heel into the deck and wonder, WTF. While it's a heck of a jolt -- it's not at all like sportster knee and at best is a sore heal for a day.

        Similarly, with side kicking, if a bike kicks back it is more rare for it to cause damage to foot or ankle. Your body is better able to absorb the kick back and I've rarely met someone who broke an ankle side kicking - but I have met a LOT of people who have torn ligaments, broken ankles, or shattered feet incurred while straddle kicking (mostly big singles, but during my time moderating ironhead forums I saw at least a half dozen guys with badly sprained ankles from kick back.)

        Sadly, if you experience sportster knee once, you've already damaged your knee.

        I ain't "karate" kicking my bike . . . I'm making sure my knee stays in one piece.

        I'm closing in on 400,000 miles of riding over almost 40 years and 97% of my bikes have been kick only. I have never had a knee injury.

        I also have been made fun of soooooooooo many times for my kicking. Sadly, all those pundits have bad limps ;-)

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