gasoline tank name plate for 1955-1956 KH

[Coolbreeze]

When my gasoline tank was refurbished, the original tank name plates were replaced with repops attached with an adhesive. On a recent trip, the right name plate took a dive, never to be seen again. My originals have been stripped of chrome and paint, but it looks like they can be brought back to new condition. This gives rise to several questions:
1. Is there a replater in the Springfield, IL area that can be trusted to work on the name plates?
2. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the name plate and the gasoline tank?
3. What is the correct size for the attachment screws? My guess is either 4-40 X 3/16 or 6-32 X 3/8 self-tapping.
4. Is there a mounting plate on the tank that the name plate is attached to?

The bike runs fine without the name plate, but I want it to look right.

George

[Rubone]

The nameplate screws are readily available. The K nameplate is the same as Big Twin of the same year so search for BT screws. No gaskets.
If your mounting strips have been removed it could be an issue as they are spot welded to the tank.

[exeric]

George, I had the same issue with the mounting strip on my '48FL. The spot weld on the right side strip let go at the front. The paint was undisturbed and in nice shape but spot welding, soldering, or brazing would mean a lot of work and a new paint job. A friend suggested 3M panel bond which is a modern glue that is used to put new car body panels together. It was expensive but I can say it did the deed (way cheaper than a welding/repaint fix) and that has been 7 or 8 years ago now. Perhaps you could get a paint and body shop to do that and save yourself the expense. The hard part was making a clamp to secure the strip in place while the panel bond cured.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Quality Plating in Quincy, IL is very adept at dealing with replating original badges, etc. You must be VERY clear with them how you want it restored. Otehrwise, there is a tendency for "rounding" of detail from polishing. I haven't had that issue with them; but I also haven't used them in 2+ years.

In terms of the tank; if your mounting strips are missing it is a few moments to reattach them permanently. The fastest and simplest way I know of is to mark them out and drill three holes right through the strip in locations similar to the spot welds. Then, fill your tank with water to the brim. Tig weld rosettes right through the three holes and you're done in seconds. You won't even cause enough heat to blister paint beyond a very small spot. Drain the tank; fill with a pint of acetone - -shake around to absorb water -- the pour out. Refill instantly with a mix of fuel and oil to coat the inside before it rusts and you're done. It probably takes about as long to type it as it does to get it done once everything is marked out.

Alternative two is to empty the tank; but use a large soldering iron instead of an open flame or electric arc. You rest the iron on the tank for sometime with a wet rag near it to keep the heat from spreading. Then apply the strip and heat it from the top down . . .then flux, then apply good 50/50 solder -- again right through the holes you drilled. If done with a good old iron -- you won't cause much of any paint damage.