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Wet Clutch for Early Sportsters

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  • Wet Clutch for Early Sportsters

    I posted this question a couple of years ago and after performing an 'Advanced Search' I'd be darned if I can find the responses. So here we go again. If anyone has recent experience with Barnett (or other) wet-or-dry clutch plates in early Sportsters, I would like to hear back.

    Thanks...

    I have just assembled my 1964 CH motor and it's still on the bench. MANY years of my experience with dry clutch Sportsters went into this rebuild and all the tricks I've learned over the years were implemented. However, one thing I know for certain - eventually, sooner or later, this clutch will get wet. Even if I do all the things necessary (like setting the bike on a center stand), this clutch will eventually leak. I just HAD to try (one last time) to get it all perfect, as I really love the feel of a properly working dry clutch. If and when this leakage occurs, I'll probably convert the early setup to a wet-clutch, most likely using Barnett plates.

    Years ago, a few customers would ask us to convert their dry clutch Sportsters to a wet clutch using the Barnett wet-or-dry clutch plates. Remember now, I'm talking many years ago (pre '71 factory wet clutch), so I'm sure things have changed since then. But back then I recall mixed results. I remember that these setups often dragged a bit and the resulting 'difficult neutral' was a problem. Harley's wet clutch of 1971 and later worked a lot better. I suspect that, because we did not use the lighter primary oils back then, the dragging problem had more to do with oil adhesion and the resulting inter-plate suction than with the Barnett clutch plates (Barnett always sold the highest quality parts - even back then).

    Has anyone had recent success with these dry-to-wet conversions? If so, what type of primary oil do you use? I'm told that the light weight oils, like automatic transmission oil work quite well but results in more gear noise, as I would expect. Does the clutch have a tendency to drag or slip and how difficult is finding neutral at a complete stop? Also, aside from the derby removal and plate change, are there any other part-changes that must be done for a proper conversion?
    Bill Pedalino
    Huntington, New York
    AMCA 6755

  • #2
    Bill,
    My wife's 69 H has had a wet clutch in it since about 1982. It has Barnett plates, and we use H-D medium 75 oil. This clutch has worked well over the years, and doesn't drag. At the time of installation, I wanted to avoid the dry clutch that would become wet over time, and have been happy with the choice.
    VPH-D

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    • #3
      In the early 1980s Harley went from using their own oil weight standard to the standard of oils used by other manufacturers
      Medium 75 means 50 weight not 75 weight
      here is HD oils chart from 1975 and 1990
      HD oils early.jpgHD oils late.jpg

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      • #4
        75 weight was the old SAE for use in transmissions ,etc. and it was equivalent to 40w oil. The chart duffeycycles used is for very late models and Harley does not supply 40 w anymore.
        Last edited by tomfiii; 11-18-2014, 01:07 PM.

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        • #5
          Tom is right here is another from 1984
          58 Special light was ? weight
          75 medium heavy was 40 w
          105 regular heavy was 50 w
          Extra Heavy was 60 W
          HD oil 1984.jpg
          Last edited by duffeycycles; 11-18-2014, 01:53 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks to all - I'm assuming that the lightest weight oil should suffice - something equivalent to their 20W-50 that meets the same SAE specifications (I hate buying anything directly from H-D dealerships) ?
            Bill Pedalino
            Huntington, New York
            AMCA 6755

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            • #7
              I wouldn't go any lighter than H-D 75, which I know is not 75 weight. That's what was recommended for the post 71 wet clutch models.
              VPH-D

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              • #8
                I worked for a H-D dealership in '71 and I remember using the light weight oil - the transmissions did run louder, but it was easier to adjust most of the drag out of the clutches. However, no wet bike that I've ridden clutched as smoothly as a dry clutch that hadn't started leaking yet, especially when finding neutral.
                Bill Pedalino
                Huntington, New York
                AMCA 6755

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                • #9
                  Bill,
                  Are you saying you were using the 58W Special Light oil, or Medium Heavy 75?
                  VPH-D

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                  • #10
                    I'm not sure, but to the best of my recollection, I think that the factory recommended the H-D 75 oil when the first wet clutches came out in '71. I believe that the use of a lighter oil came later on, most likely due to the dragging plate problems. In fact, in 1972 (I think) there were tube-type spacers installed beneath the pressure plate that were introduced to prevent over-tightening in response to the plate-drag problem.

                    But... the focus of my original question was to learn how the Barnett-type wet-or-dry clutches work in earlier dry clutch Sportsters. I seem to recall that some guys recommended soaking them in automatic transmission fluid for an extended time period before installing them. When the time comes, I can experiment with different oil viscosities, but hearing from people who are successfully using them is invaluable information like that from VPH-D.

                    VPH - is it fairly easy to find neutral on you wife's bike?
                    Bill Pedalino
                    Huntington, New York
                    AMCA 6755

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                    • #11
                      Bill,
                      My wife has difficulty finding neutral on her 69, but I don't. I've been happy with the wet clutch on her bike, it works as well as the post 74 [spacer] wet clutches. I don't see a downside to the wet conversion, especially for someone like myself who isn't real big on maintenance.
                      VPH-D

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                      • #12
                        My wife has difficulty finding neutral on her 1995 Sportster, but I don't. Am I being sexist?
                        Bill Pedalino
                        Huntington, New York
                        AMCA 6755

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Bill,
                          Regarding the wet clutch, my experience is that the clutches used form 52 to 70 (dry) can leak for a variety of reasons. The most predominate are 1) failed clutch hub seal (incorporated as a running change in 57), 2) worn out clutch hub needle bearing, 3) failed or split motor main shaft seal, flooding the primary case 4) leaking rod seal on the bottle gear and 5) oil blowing into the primary via the relief valve due to wet sumping. Over the years I have encountered all of theses problems. Interestingly enough, the early 7 plate (KH and early 57's) clutch hub did not have a oil seal and HD sold a replacement wet clutch when the plates became saturated with oil. I routinely replace all of the bearings and seals with a motor rebuild/restoration. I also logged over 50,000 miles on a 68 XLCH and had no clutch problems, but did inspect/replace seals a necessary.
                          The wet clutch can benefit from adding an ounce of ATF to the trans oil, using HD Sport Trans fluid of as I do with my XLCR and XR1000 use Mobil 1 ATF. I have yet to encounter any slipping or dragging with these heavily modified motors.
                          Good luck.
                          Dave

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                          • #14
                            Dave,
                            If I understand you correctly - you use straight Mobil 1 ATF in your XR1000?
                            Bill Pedalino
                            Huntington, New York
                            AMCA 6755

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                            • #15
                              Yes I do and have had no problems.

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